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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an issue with all power windows not working and I'm not sure what to do other than bring it to my mechanic. Here's a little background story...

Drove to the ATM and rolled driver window down... it was slower as if the window motor was struggling to raise window. Fast forward 10 minutes at gas station... driver window does not roll down at all when button pressed. I go to check other power button/windows on main control panel AND doors and none work... I replaced fuse and they still don't work!

Anyone else have this problem that could help figure this out?

It's a 1983 240 GLT.
 

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Re: Power Windows not working! (ImYourTurboLover)

I've "fixed" this issue on my wagon about half a dozen times. One of the wires that goes from the body to the door always breaks (not always the same one) inside the rubber boot. After splicing, soldering, and crimping it a number of different times I went ahead and just rewired the whole damn thing. An easy way to tell is to just check for voltage at the switch panel with the ignition on.
 

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Re: Power Windows not working! (ImYourTurboLover)

The first thing I would do is to buy a can of electrical parts cleaner and take the switches out of the arm rest and give them a good cleaning. I did this on my 91 240 and lo and behold, the passneger windows went up and down, after a good cleaning. There was all sorts of grit and crud down deep inside the switch itself and a good cleaning out was all it needed. I was surprised at the junk that had gotten down in the switch itself, but cleaning the switches made every one work just as they were supposed to. Cheap fix, I'd say.

Do this before replacing switches or relays...it might save you alot of money as it did for me!

- Brickboy240
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your responses. It turns out the fuse box and corresponding cables for each fuse connector had disconnected causing a "false short" I took it to my mechanic and they made quick work of this.

I was advised this is a very important part of servicing your Volvo to clean fuse box connectors and contact points to avoid a larger problem with the engine.

There was a car in the shop at the time of my visit in which the same situation, but with a critical fuse failure in the engine causing engine failure and a tow to the shop.
 

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Re: (ImYourTurboLover)

Dont even get me started on fuses. thanks to those friggin things I bought an oxygen sensor I didnt need ($140 in total parts, including a torch and vice grips for removal of the old one), spent a weekend cracking the old one out and putting the new one in, only to find my fuse was the problem. I have the same problem. I go to roll down my windows, and sometimes they wont, so I need to roll the fuse around until they kick back on. I ahve also lost my fuel pump while driving because of a fuse, and my radio. Fun Fun Fun, F***ing fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (MenardVolvo)

Have you inspected the contact points where the wiring for the power windows connect to the fuse box? This sounds like the exact problem I had and this is how it was fixed. I thought it was the fuse too, but it turned out to be the wire contact point.
 

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Re: (MenardVolvo)

i have an idea.... now call me crazy if you want but couldnt you get a fuse panel out of another car with blade fuses and chop it up and solder the wires onto it and use that? or would that cause some sort of horrible burning wire fest? god i hate those... they had one in 'nam i think.

ps how fast are the windows supposed to move because mine kinda crawl along really slowly, they dont stop but they just kinda sssslllloooowwwwlllllyyyy roll up and down. kind of annoying and id like to fix it one day that im not thinking about the windshield or gigantic dent.
 
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