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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New symptom today in the 2017 xc90 saga. 3 months after the last mechanical issue, this time an electrical one.

Using the tailgate button next to the steering wheel; remote keyfob; kick sensor near exhaust, rubber pressurized handle above license plate, they all work to open the tailgate under power.

However, the black button under the tailgate to close the tailgate won't close it back under power. The inside button, key fob, or the kick position won't work either.

I tried multiple iterations of close/open on the keyfob, inside buttons, even tried holding the close lock button until it beeped. Nothing.
 

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Sorry, I got nothing useful. I got two lemons and got rid of both.
But the first one - at some point in the legal saga, I started looking into what kind of permit I would need to burn the car down in protest in front of the dealership. After a bunch of conversations with the local fire department, I found out it was not an option, especially because of the batteries (T8). But I had local newspapers lined up already.
It just made me chuckle, seeing you mention "burning this POS down". Truth is, you can't even get that little satisfaction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Dropped off the xc90 at the dealership today. They are telling me my Hydraulic Unit for the rear hatch assembly failed.

Car has just short of 36,000 miles and a 2017 T6 model with NO other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I had the exact same problem on our 2016 XC90 T6 (58,00mi).
The dealer said it was the LH Pulldown Motor and quoted a $850ish repair.
I replaced it myself with part#31690604 for tascaparts.com for $220, and it took about 20minutes to swap only because I methodically chased the wire without removing too many panels. It is very easy.
Lift gate worked perfectly for about a month... but now it is having intermittent issues again. My guess is the RH side has now failed in similar fashion - I have one on order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My dealer wants $1065 for 2 of them ($400 each + labor). For anyone else looking at this thread later, there are 2 versions of these and depending on your VIN & chassis code, it could be either Volvo part #31690603 or #31690604. I spoke with FCP euro and they checked and advised my car needs 31690603 which is for the L702 variant code.

The part number that failed on my car from factory is #31457610.

If you have any advice on what needs to be remove to access the connectors, that will be helpful. I'm guessing it's the covers on the D-pillar?
 

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I am away from the Volvo for the next week, so can't share any photos. I also couldn't find any videos so just went for it.
The only annoying part is the wiring head forward above the headliner and then does a u-turn before heading behind the airbag in the D-Pillar where the connector lives. The path matches the parts diagram layout, but the wire travels lower behind the D-Pillar than shown.
Warning the following is by memory:
I think only some small sockets, and a torx-key?(maybe I am thinking my BMW) are required. And an (Amazon cheap) Auto Trim removal kit goes a long way!
You will have to remove the two upper D-Pillar panels, I believe there was a screw behind the airbag label cover on the upper panel and then everything else just pulled out. When you drop any clips you can find them below by the battery (I learned that!).
For me the key was pulling down the headliner enough to get the U-run of the cable free, which comes to my only real surprise/warning. The headline at the rear was held under the rubber strip, which is easily pulled free, BUT the rest of the headliner you need to pull down is held by velcro. Pull too hard and the velcro will rip from the top-side of the headliner. The key was to pull down just enough to get a trim removal tool in to pry the velcro free.
After that it was easiest to remove the airbag mounting bracket to snake the connector out, and cut one piece of tape that held some wiring together.
First look and play with the retention wire of the new strut to determine how to pry the free to make the swap. I believe I got one cleanly with a flathead screwdriver, but required some additional assistant with a set of pliers for the other end (likely self induced struggle).
The only other caution is the heavy tailgate won't remain supported with one strut, that swap required a helper.
Good luck.
 

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My dealer (in Canada) gave me a quote about $900 CAN (13 % Tax included) to replace two struts. The parts self are 329.12 (MSRP) x 2 = 658.24 CAD + 13% Tax. My par number as per VIN is 31690604.
They connected my car to VIDA to confirm the issue. I will let them do it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ordered the parts, I'm awaiting delivery and will complete the job myself. Ordered them online 2 x 31690604 for $455.59 USD shipped.
 

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I ordered the parts, I'm awaiting delivery and will complete the job myself. Ordered them online 2 x 31690604 for $455.59 USD shipped.
if you don't mind, record the process and share the video with us. I'm just afraid that they will go bad again.

MY16 XC90 T8
 
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