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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been slowly losing power steering fluid for nearly 4 months now. At first it took a few weeks to drain the reservoir from full to half full, now all it takes is a short drive to completely empty the reservoir. Finally had time to crawl around under the car and look for leaks, immediately saw fluid dripping from drivers side rack boot. I pulled the rack boot off, and about 1/2 cup of fluid poured out. Seems like the seal on that end of the rack is shot. 2 questions:
1) VIDA claims that you have to drop the subframe completely to get the rack out? is this true?
2) FCP wants north of $1k for a oem rack. that seems absurd, anyone have success with a reman rack? which one?

Also, I had a new a/c failure mode this week that I haven't read about on here - the bearing in the pulley on the compressor failed, taking out the clutch and locking up the compressor.
when it rains it pours!
 

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I was looking at this last night...

Unfortunately, it looks like you do, in fact, have to drop the subframe.

For the price of a new one, I’m pulling used from a junkyard or buying used on eBay. But, I’m also looking into rebuilt racks and reputable possible sellers...

This is a little painfully long to watch, but it’s comprehensive.

Part 1:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0572CBCMVVc

Part 2:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx3KGHloxKc



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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1) yes

2) FCP is nice with the lifetime warranty, but you can get a reman. rack for cheaper. I've seen them for 300-400.

I've replaced my AC clutch bearing. It's in a sticky on here. It can fail and lockup, which seemed to have happen to you. Mine was making a loud bearing noise before I replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Question - When the wheel is turned almost all the way inward - the seal is almost all the way flush with the steering piston. can you wipe the grease off and get a seal number and just replace it with similar from NAPA or somewhere? More work but insanely cheaper.
 

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I thought the R&P was not serviceable.

Are you saying to see if you can get dimensions off the current seal, use a seal puller to remove it, and press a new one on? How would you get it on over the rack piston rod? Just slowly walk it on?

I am because I have a similar problem.

I guess that's what a rebuild place must do though. I just didn't know it was possible on the car.
 

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I thought the R&P was not serviceable.

Are you saying to see if you can get dimensions off the current seal, use a seal puller to remove it, and press a new one on? How would you get it on over the rack piston rod? Just slowly walk it on?

I am because I have a similar problem.

I guess that's what a rebuild place must do though. I just didn't know it was possible on the car.
Internal components may not be. I am used to working on my old harley though, and they have nothing but seals of this type all over it I have had to remove and replace in one form or another. When I changed out my inner tie rods - it seemed like after wiping the old extra grease off the pinion it looked like a regular seal of this manner- presses inward and seals internal and external contact points, just like all the seals on old harleys like mine(bleh). But if I recall correctly it even had a number and whatnot stamped on it, but I wasn't sure if a replacement could be sourced and I never recorded the number on it.

I would do the seal the same way you do on a harley - take a screw and push it in a thread or two (obviously unknown here so the least amount the better) and then pull and it should walk out especially with some persuasion.

Then you either crank the wheel to ensure that side is as far in as possible, and you lube it up and walk it on slowly OR you can do what we do on harleys - tape over the pinion shaft, grease the tape, then slide it on, ensuring the ticks in the pinion aren't exposed and it should slide on easy from there which prevents it from cutting the seal on assembly. The thinner the tape the better.
Then when installed to the correct depth (flush with external surface iirc) turn the wheel and remove all the tape - you should be golden to refill fluid and be done. We have to do this all the time on the inner primary bearing seals on harleys as the input shaft to the transmission is splined and cuts the seal up on install if not taped up first...I do the grease because I want least resistance possible.
 

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I'd be curious to see if that'll work. If I'm ever back in there, or someone else is, take a pic!

They don't sell seals or kits for these racks, or I can't find any, but obviously Cardone and others rebuild them, so something is missing.
 
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