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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently in the market for a v70r 1998-2000. I have been doing my research and due diligence in regards to what to look for when looking for one. A few that i have stumbled upon are in fwd mode where the previous owner removed the driveshaft and a few that are making a noise related to the driveshaft.

Is it simple/easy to remove the driveshaft or simple/easy to replace the driveshaft? Please advise yalls. What are some things i should like for when checking out any 98-00 v70r?
 

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yes easy enough to remove driveshaft. Its ~$500 to have the center carrier bearing replaced since you have to cut and re weld the shaft. Look on v70r and this forum for buying advice its been written up many times.
 

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$410 from colorado driveshaft. Dunno where you get $500 from.


As for 98-2000, overall '98 is much more reliable and easier to work on being a mechanical throttle body, the 2.3L engine, etc. Though the '99-2000 engine is technically superior. The 4speed trans in the '98R is also far more reliable than the 5speed in the others.
 

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That's not correct. The ME7 cars are more reliable. There are fewer parts. Also, only 2000 got the AW55. 1999 is still AW50-42. Coil packs, CVVT, and an ETM are far better than a distributor, SAS, IAC, and a bazillion vacuum lines. Also VIDA works with a 99+ Volvo. And if you already own an SR more parts are identical. ME7 is also superior to M4.4 because it uses requested load power delivery and has a MAP sensor to truly know boost.
 

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I think 1999 is the best of both worlds when it comes to P80 Rs. You get the durability of the 4-speed transmission with the advances in engine control, etc. that come with ME7. Plus, the pool of used parts from an engine perspective is much larger since Volvo used that engine architecture through 2009 at least, whereas 1998 was the end of the line for the 850-style mechanicals. I think the '98 cars were more reliable when Volvo was in the depths of the ETM and transmission problems that cropped up in the mid-'00s, but those have all been solved by now and none of these cars are getting any younger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the input guys!

i definitely want to do everything right with this car. if i just buy a whole new drive shaft from colorado driveshaft is there still cutting and welding involved?
 

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There's a forum affiliated 99 in Chicago for $3k. Be worth a road trip
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i pm'ed the member selling it to see if he would drive it to Seattle and i would pay for his plane ticket back to Chicago but he didn't have the time.

ScottishBrick i also appreciate your listing in the classifieds! Makes my life a little easier looking for another car haha
 

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That's not correct. The ME7 cars are more reliable. There are fewer parts. Also, only 2000 got the AW55. 1999 is still AW50-42. Coil packs, CVVT, and an ETM are far better than a distributor, SAS, IAC, and a bazillion vacuum lines. Also VIDA works with a 99+ Volvo. And if you already own an SR more parts are identical. ME7 is also superior to M4.4 because it uses requested load power delivery and has a MAP sensor to truly know boost.
"Correct" really doesn't enter into it.
Some of us would disagree with your opinion
and prefer the simplicity of a '98 vs a '99-'00.
Coil Packs fail on a spectacularly regular basis,
the OEM ETM was a joke and don't even get me
started on all the networking... Just saying'. ;)
 

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"Correct" really doesn't enter into it.
Some of us would disagree with your opinion
and prefer the simplicity of a '98 vs a '99-'00.
Coil Packs fail on a spectacularly regular basis,
the OEM ETM was a joke and don't even get me
started on all the networking... Just saying'. ;)
Again, agreeing to disagree, I have an 01 and an 04, over 120k miles combined in 7-9 years of driving them, and never once replaced a coilpack. The 01 has 175k miles on the original coilpacks. Replaced the ETM on the 01 back in 2009 and haven't had to think about it since.

I really have nothing against the older ones, I picked a 98 for my motor swap project for the simpler wiring and control, but the me7 cars are also extremely reliable.
 

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"Correct" really doesn't enter into it.
Some of us would disagree with your opinion
and prefer the simplicity of a '98 vs a '99-'00.
Coil Packs fail on a spectacularly regular basis,
the OEM ETM was a joke and don't even get me
started on all the networking... Just saying'. ;)
I would have to agree with this assessment too. A 98 is very dependable, reliable and self tunable if you so desire. You cannot tune a 99 or 2000 yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
self tunable? chipped?
 

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Also, you don't have to weld the driveshaft to replace the carrier bearing. I think there's a recent write-up on here detailing how to do it properly from a Canadian member.

Everyone has opinions on the 98 vs 99/00 debate. I like the simplicity of the 98. I also owned a 2000 XC in Sweden and that car was miserable in terms of electrical gremlins. But it was poorly taken care of by the prior owner(s) so that likely had a lot to do with it.
 

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I would buy either again, had a 98 t5 that was always eager to kick ass. To this point I avoided an etm issue on my 99 R and I figure if it was going to happen it would have already. I have a '00 XC that had the drive shaft and torque tube and etm replaced before I bought it (thanks p.o.! ) Had the shaft been changed at the right time the other pieces wouldn't have failed.

The drive shaft came with my 99 (fwd mode like you describe) and I sent it in and got another one. $525 purchased and installed by my indy mechanic. Happy to have one rebuilt by a pro and not myself.

If you want that one car enough fly out to get it =]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
another quick question for you guys regarding the viscous coupler. it looks like a very expensive part, around $1300 on tasca:eek:.

can this be rebuilt? or is new the only option? used?
 

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another quick question for you guys regarding the viscous coupler. it looks like a very expensive part, around $1300 on tasca:eek:.

can this be rebuilt? or is new the only option? used?
Call erie volvo in Syracuse NY. I've got a receipt from them for about $500 for one.
another quick question for you guys regarding the viscous coupler. it looks like a very expensive part, around $1300 on tasca:eek:.

can this be rebuilt? or is new the only option? used?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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