SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am going to go look at a used v70 on Monday. It's a 2001 model. What are some of the things that I should look/listen for?

Thanks in advance,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63,543 Posts
Transmission
Transmission
Did I mention the transmission

Stay away from 2001s
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
Transmission
Transmission
Did I mention the transmission

Stay away from 2001s
It could be a MT N/A or T5, Jim.
(low probability, I know, but still)
Anyway, as Jim says, AUTO TRANS for 01-02 SUX!
Also, 01 ETM (electronic throttle module) goes bad. Ask for proof its been replaced already, if not, when it goes (no "if"), cheapest way to deal with it is to remove it, send it to XEMODEX and for $500 and a time w/o a car, they will rebuild it (I think) and send it back for you to reinstall.

Better to look for an 03+ in general.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
To get a more useful list of things to keep in mind, it would probably be helpful if you provided a bit more information, such as specific model and number of miles on the car in question.

On my old '01 V70 2.4, I didn't have any problems with the automatic transmission or the ETM. I did have problems with the blower motor, the timing belt and water pump, a leaking gasket on the fuel tank and occasionally intermittent door locks. Of course, I bought it with 140k miles and sold it with 170k miles, so that may have something to do with why I didn't have the well known failures but did have others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
785 Posts
Stay away from 2001; I would try to find a 2003 or newer. Regardless of year if you don't have record of the transmission fluid being changed in the last 2 years go ahead and change it to be safe. Of course you need to know when the timing belt has been last serviced too. Pay careful attention to whether the
alternator is noisy or not, if it is find another car or factor in $1000 or so for the dealer cost of replacing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,612 Posts
send it to XEMODEX and for $500 and a time w/o a car, they will rebuild it (I think) and send it back for you to reinstall.
Just so you know, they now can program them at their factory and send you one exchange, so no car downtime except the actual part swap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone. Just to clarify, this is a T5 car with some miles on it.
I drove it. There is a little compressor surge but it pulled really good overall. I'm hoping a new tcv valve will fix it. The seller says the transmission is new and it looks like it is. There is a new air charge pipe too. Gonna sit on it for a night. Does anyone know where the temp gauge is supposed to be at while driving?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
I drove it. There is a little compressor surge but it pulled really good overall. I'm hoping a new tcv valve will fix it. The seller says the transmission is new and it looks like it is. There is a new air charge pipe too. Gonna sit on it for a night. Does anyone know where the temp gauge is supposed to be at while driving?
In the R forum, concensus is that the temp gauge has 3 positions: dead cold (left) operating temp (middle) and PULL OVER! (right)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
If its got a lot of miles on it (or not - just good practice) get a look at the dipstick and filler cap. On a turbo car, because of oil circulation to the turbo, shearing happens faster and is more dangerous than on a NA car. Look for signs of sludge indicating that the oil was changed too infrequently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In the R forum, concensus is that the temp gauge has 3 positions: dead cold (left) operating temp (middle) and PULL OVER! (right)
Thanks thaxman,

The temp gauge stayed right in the middle. I felt the upper and lower radiator hoses and both were nice and warm, with the upper one being the warmest. I let it warm up about half way before I even drove it. I wanted to let it sit there an idle for a bit before I drove it. No weird noises or anything. I purrs like a kitten.

I spoke with the guy selling it in detail. Outside of what I already know, he has also replaced the rear struts.

Thoughts/concerns?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If its got a lot of miles on it (or not - just good practice) get a look at the dipstick and filler cap. On a turbo car, because of oil circulation to the turbo, shearing happens faster and is more dangerous than on a NA car. Look for signs of sludge indicating that the oil was changed too infrequently.
Thanks, I checked the oil and smelled it. It didn't have a weird smell to it. I pulled the filler cap off while it was running and there doesn't seem to be much (if any) blow-by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
post us some pictures if you would :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Search for "Stage Zero", and realize that you will have to do all of these in the next 30 days after ownership of this car, unless the P.O. can provide a receipt for it. Xemodex is definitely the way to go for the ETM, but don't forget engine mounts, suspension, timing belt with pulleys and water pump, etc.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top