SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday I serviced my pcv system replaced everything except the metal tube which was in perfect shape so I removed it and cleaned it and all the ports for the block. I'm still getting crankcase pressure so what should I look for next?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Is the oil drain passage from the block down through the oil pan clear? I had to take my oil pan off to get it clear.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is the oil drain passage from the block down through the oil pan clear? I had to take my oil pan off to get it clear.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
I cleaned it out with a pick but didn't drop the oil pan maybe I'll have to try that next

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Was just about to say that lol. That's the only other Port that needs to be clean in order for this system to work properly. Since you already have replaced the thing and out everything back together its gonna be really hard to try and fix it without ripping it all back apart, I'm afraid.

My suggestion would be to get a long piece of tubing and run it into the drain Port and blow through it. If you can hear bubbles through the fill cap/dipstick tube then you are good. If you collapse a lung, you aren't good haha

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That can easily be done lol I'll most like use a blowgun to avoid the collapsed lung

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
if you look at the square port on the top that is virtually closed. That is what mine looked like. It is that size all the way to the bottom of the oil pan. The space at the bottom is small and the sludge is pretty thick.

2003 s60 2.4t fwd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah there was quite a bit if carbon buildup just at the port that I cleaned out so I guess I'll just have to drop the oil pan and clean it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
The oil pan is a pain. If you are going to drop the pan be patient and make sure to do the o rings while you are there. BTW anaerobic gasket is the way to go and using petroleum jelly to hold the o rings in the block while fitting the pan is a good idea.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think the pan could be more of a pain then taking the intake manifold off was. I was too lazy to remove the thermostat housing. It took alot of patience with a 10mm swivel socket to get that intake bolt loose

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Yes that one is bad.... I did both, did the oil pan twice ( that's how I learned of the petroleum jelly) I guess it depends on what you like better laying on your back in restricted space, or hunching over for hours. BTW keep that swivel handy for the carrier bearing bolts and the fuel line bracket. If you have not already since you are there might as well resolve transmission torque mount since you are going to have to take it off. The book says to loosen the sub frame to get the pan out. I had to loosen the motor mounts and torque mount an lift the engine.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Ours was clogged at the banjo fitting and check valve under the intake manifold. Minor dry sludge in the engine block passages. Ran a large tie wrap down into the oil pan to verify open and used a shop vac to suck dirt/oil at the engine openings. Everything seemed clean and crankcase pressure went negative after service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll try blow through the drain port and if I don't hear bubbles I'll be dropping the oil pan

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
If you have sludge, you can drain 1qrt of oil and add 1qrt of transmission fluid, run it for a while, it will smoke but the transmission fluid will clean remove the sludge. drain the oil and replace the the oil filter and add new oil. I suggest 100% synthetic, I like amsoil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just did change oil yesterday with amsoil signature series

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I think There are more detergents in the synthetic oil than in the tranny fluid. Just change it every 1000 miles until the oil is relatively clean.

2003 s60 2.4t fwd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
I would drain and SAVE the oil you just put in as anything with the word "Amsoil" on is fairly expensive. I would put money that drain Port through the pan is your issue but definitely try and blow through before doing anything rash :)

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would drain and SAVE the oil you just put in as anything with the word "Amsoil" on is fairly expensive. I would put money that drain Port through the pan is your issue but definitely try and blow through before doing anything rash :)

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Agreed the oil was $78 for 8 quarts, I wanted extra. I believe according to amsoil it's supposed to be good for 15k miles I plan on changing it before that though probably a filter at 5k then probably full oil change at 10k depending on what oil looks like before then

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Agreed the oil was $78 for 8 quarts, I wanted extra. I believe according to amsoil it's supposed to be good for 15k miles I plan on changing it before that though probably a filter at 5k then probably full oil change at 10k depending on what oil looks like before then

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
My wallet is crying just thinking about that But if you are trying to find the best oil you can readily get, Amsoil would be the name to go to for sure. Next weekend I'm changing to M1 0w-40 for a extended OCI. Hoping that will clean out any residuals from when I did the pcv a few weeks ago and the slight tick I have coming from one of the lifters.

If you drain it and put it in a gold vase, Amsoil won't hunt you down and scold you

All joking aside, little, if anything, will get that crud out if it is indeed clogged. Even a tier 1 base stock and addpack will struggle actually dissolving it depending on how baked on it is.

If you want to be crude and you can not blow through it and hear bubbles, drain the Amsoil and take a nice long coat hanger or small sturdy (but flexible) wire and poke and prod till it breaks free. Then do a flush for a day with some supertech or gas station oil and change filter to pick up any crap it left behind. This is all after you have verified you can now blow through it of course :). Then drain that garbage out and slap the Amsoil back in with a shiny new filter.



Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah my friend is a distributor and I ordered it and didn't ask how much well my wallet got hit pretty hard there lol I think next time Ill go with Amsoils middle grade its 30 bucks cheaper. I don't know if its that much better I used Mobil 1 5000 in my Mitsubishi for years and the oil was always pretty clean at oil change but who knows its all debatable. I'm gonna try and work on my car Saturday i never have time during the week so i will keep everyone updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update so today I removed the pcv box and blew through the lower port and heard bubbles so that was a good sign. Did a glove test still got positive pressure so now I don't know what to do I took a video of the glove test and the smoke coming from the oil cap
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top