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Hi all,

Often when I accelerate from stopped, or when I just finish braking and become stopped, my car sort of "thunks" in the front area. I meant to ask my shop to check it out a couple weeks ago when I got some other stuff fixed but forgot. Just now, I was browsing IPD and sorted by most popular (out of curiosity), and found the HD Front End Link part. The very first sentence of the description reminded me of this problem: "Standard front anti-sway bar endlinks are known for their tendency to pop or click when they wear out."

So since this sounds like it might be the problem, I have questions:
  1. Where the heck is this part on the car?
  2. Is it something I can easily replace?
  3. And how do I know whether it's the cause of the noise? Once I locate the piece, will I be able to jiggle it or something?

I'm somewhat handy, but if it's not reasonably easy to install, I'll take it to the shop. I don't currently have a way of lifting my car (that's how much I DON'T work on my car) but I do have a wrench. So like, if I can reach into the engine compartment and unbolt the old piece and bolt on the new piece, I'm good to go; otherwise please let me know how to check if it's the problem (if that's an easy thing to do) and I'll verify that it is and then take it in to be fixed.

Thanks!!

EDIT: Okay, moments later I found the link on that part page, to the page that explains how to check. I'll try to figure it out - but still, if you would recommend me do it myself or not, I'd appreciate any advice. :) Otherwise sorry to waste your time, and/or hope this helped someone with the same mystery!
 

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The front end links are behind the wheel along side of your struts. It is attached on one end to the suspension with a welded bracket and on the other end to the front sway bar which runs under the car connecting the right and left wheels. The front sway bar flexes like a spring to a point where it will tend to lift the other side wheel as the car tilts side ways thus reducing chances to loose grip and attempting to keep the car flat... I'm not being very clear I know but hopefully it makes some sens . . . :p

The end links connects the sway bar to the struts and have ball joints on both ends.

here is a picture:


I got TKI end links. They are better than IPDs

It is quite easy to change but you do need to be able to remove the wheel to access it. So likely you need to be able to lift the car. That said you could use a regular jack and buy some stands (they aren't expensive, well below what the dealer will charge you!). It is best, if not required, to have the car lift on both sides so there isn't any stress on the sway bar which could cause you trouble to detach and re-assemble the end-links.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I went out to my car to check it out and couldn't see them. Because clearly you do need to remove the wheel.

I'm going to put it off a bit longer. They've already been doing this for quite some time, so I don't think I'm in danger, and in another paycheck or two I'll set aside some money to FINALLY buy some things to start learning to work on my car - jack stands and tire stops, a wrench set, a pan if I want to try to change my oil, etc.

Thanks for the quick and very clear response, especially the picture. I'll know exactly what to look for now. And I'll check out the TKI ones if those are indeed the source of the popping noises.
 

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Yeah, I heard the ipd ones are actually worse than OEM in terms of durability. When mine go, I'll simply get OEM.

Ricket- maintaining and fixing issues on your own car is one of the greatest feelings one can have, imo. Nothing like getting dirty, cursing at foreign engineering, and finally reaping the rewards of hard work. $$ saved is a big plus, too!
 

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I have a 'pop / clicking' noise during acceleration and deceleration but it sounds like a CV joint to me.


TG, I really like those links...I looked for them and couldn't find them anywhere on the TKi site. Where'd you get them?
 

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I have a 'pop / clicking' noise during acceleration and deceleration but it sounds like a CV joint to me.

CV joints are normally silent in a straight line, they pop and click only when turning tightly - unless they're totally gone and about to break.

The TKI endlinks are not going to be quiet btw! Heim joints are great for strength and solidity, but they're downright legendary for noise over time.
 

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TG, I really like those links...I looked for them and couldn't find them anywhere on the TKi site. Where'd you get them?
It was part of a group buy a year ago TKI was making.
I'm not sure they manufacture them all the time for our cars but you can always shoot them an email listed in this link:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ble-Endlinks-Now-Available!&highlight=tki+s40



The TKI endlinks are not going to be quiet btw! Heim joints are great for strength and solidity, but they're downright legendary for noise over time.
One year, one winter with salt, they don't look like nice anymore but so far so good, they still are very strong and no noise free... FYI there were two styles. A race version and the one I got. Supposedly the one I got shouldn't have noise issue because it is an enclosed construction unlike the sport version which is stronger but more exposed...
 

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Someone once mentioned it being the STC or DSTC engaging and dis-engaging... Could be wrong though.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
 

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STC uses the brakes individually to correct wheelspin. It's more of a momentary buzz as the caliper is rapidly applied, and it's always indicated on the dash by a flashing yellow triangle.
 

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It is popping form where the cv shaft connects to the wheel hub / bearing hub.. the splines wear and are not tight anymore and the bolt is loosening.. i did put some retaining compound (to the bolt and the splines) on mine to stop the clicking..
 

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CV joints are normally silent in a straight line, they pop and click only when turning tightly - unless they're totally gone and about to break.

The TKI endlinks are not going to be quiet btw! Heim joints are great for strength and solidity, but they're downright legendary for noise over time.
+1 on CV - Joints : Pop & Clack , Not a Thud . A Sway Bar Link is usually a light Tapping , Tap, Tap =_ TapTap sound .
 

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I've been hearing a slight popping noise, seems to be more when turning. It would seem, based on this thread, it's CV related and not end-link related.

Is there a visual or physical way to determine either of these two issues? I'll get the car off the ground and would like to know what faults to look for.

Thanks in advance :thumbup: :beer:
 

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wd40 every month or so on theose tki endlinks will stop corrosion
 

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I've been hearing a slight popping noise, seems to be more when turning. It would seem, based on this thread, it's CV related and not end-link related.

Is there a visual or physical way to determine either of these two issues? I'll get the car off the ground and would like to know what faults to look for.

Thanks in advance :thumbup: :beer:
Do a search on youtube for "bad cv joint" and you should get some videos of what a bad cv sounds like. Usually a click-click-click while accelerating around a corner. Bad end links are usually a rattle unless they are broken off, then they can clunk. Popping noises can be bad suspension bushings but I'm not sure on the type that Volvo uses.

If you are somewhat handy you can make your own end links and get some greasable rod ends (heim joints) which last longer as long as you remember to grease them often. When I made some for sway bar disconnects on my Rodeo I bought some non greasable ones that are packed with teflon impregnated kevlar. After a few years of a lot of off roading (pre disconnect use) they are starting to rattle a bit now.





I just used mild steel round stock for the main bar and it was strong enough to not even bend when I managed to snap the sway bar, which is why I decided to make them into quick disconnects.
 

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could it be a bad torque mount ?
 

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From what I can gather it seems as though it could be one of several things to an un-trained ear. As our cars age this could be a helpful resource for self diagnosis. If people can fill in an (Observation) and (Diagnosis) under each of the 5 areas below I'm sure it'll be helpful to many others. Feel free to add notable related areas as well.

1. CV joint
2. End link
3. Wheel bearing/hub
- Observation:
- Diagnosis: Jack up problematic wheel. Grab at 12 and 6 o'clock and push/pull forward and aft. If there's play it could be a bad wheel bearing.
4. Motor mount
5. Tie-rod
 

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I had similar noises. Also there would be a thunk when hitting the brakes sharply. The problem was the lower control arm bushings. I replaced both control arms and it took care of it.
Stan
 

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I had similar noises. Also there would be a thunk when hitting the brakes sharply. The problem was the lower control arm bushings. I replaced both control arms and it took care of it.
Stan
+1
 

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I am thinking these could be bad on my car... for as long as ive owned it 14 months and 21,000 miles (now has about 147,000) when i hit the brakes in a drive through or sharply at low speeds there is a loud click just a singular noise. doesn't always happen, I think I've adjusted how I apply the brakes to avoid hearing it lol, but still commonly happens in drive throughs for some reason. Does this sound correct? Also could not fixing this cause anything else to fail/wear/be damaged? I have replaced the right wheel bearing twice (failed within a month of being replaced) as well as the left side..... was really quiet for a couple months now it sounds like they are getting loud again. Also after recently having my wheels rotated my car seems to be out of alignment (pulls slightly to the right and the wheel is slightly to the left to go dead straight) Im getting frustrated with all these little things

thanks for any input
 

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Bad lower control arm bushings will throw off the alignment, make handling sloppy and cause tire wear. If they get bad enough, you will get more road noise. You do get used to these things as the slowly degrade. The car feels new again when fixed.
 
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