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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here purchased a mix to make polyurethane? I know it's been done, but after not very long of searching on my phone, I couldn't find anything less than $75. It could easily make over a gallon's worth of poly though, I only need about... 1/6th of that.

Basically, the plan is - rather than spend $70 on ipd's subframe inserts, and tranny mounts - just fill my own with my own poly mix. I've done it before, but my friend had already acquired the mixture from some place, and I can't get him to answer the damn phone.

Even for $75 I could make poly mounts for every bushing on my car and then some, and still have some left over, all for less than the cost of one of the poly mounts from ipd.

Here's my old S40 engine mounts that I filled.. It's not pretty, but it's poly! and functional!

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Hmm.. Never knew you can make your own.. But keep us updated with some pics and maybe a DIY.
 

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Only stuff I've had readily available to me comes in 8 oz gun tubes (2 part, self mixing) and run about $30 for that much.. so less economical than what you found...

I wouldn't go with windshield urethane, I don't think it's really made for torsional use... kind of like epoxy, there's a lot of different flavors out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm.. Never knew you can make your own.. But keep us updated with some pics and maybe a DIY.
How do you think ipd made theirs :p?
 

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How do you think ipd made theirs :p?
lol.. I guess I didn't know what I was thinking.. I just assumed you need to have a lot of equipment to make it..

btw, i've heard people say the windsheild stuff is for temporary use only.
 

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People have been using window weld for a long time, I have it in my top mount. Working fine for 18 months now. One day I will buy a nice premade setup to replace it.
 

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People have been using window weld for a long time, I have it in my top mount. Working fine for 18 months now. One day I will buy a nice premade setup to replace it.
I used this also. I put it on my rear control arm bushings after my previous fix failed. I gave it 24 hrs to cure in the summer and the difference it made was crazy. Sidehop was greatly reduced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The only thing is you need to do layers if your doing a thick motor mount or it will never cure.
Understood - I might give it a shot... What's the worst that could happen? Oh no, I lost $20! And now I have to dig it out of my mount....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I've found a site that has Urethane products for very cheap - Their warehouse is near me (less than 10 miles away) Now I just need help choosing the right one...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#two-part-casting-compounds/=k8vyco

General Purpose Urethane—Our most popular choice, this urethane is water and abrasion resistant. Color is black, except 85D is blue-green.

See-Through Urethane—Color is clear.

Easy-to-Work Urethane—Combine the liquid components to form a putty that can be molded into or around any shape. Color is black.

Fine-Detail Urethane—Flows smoothly into crevices to replicate complex detail. Color is white. Ready to demold in 2 hours.

FDA-Compliant Urethane—Complies to FDA 21 CFR. Color is white.

Machinable Urethane—Material is aluminum-filled and cures to a gray color.

Foam Urethane—Cast large parts with this lightweight foam. It starts as a liquid that expands 7 times its original size. Color is off white.

Machinable Epoxy—Cures into a tough surface that can be machined. Color is gray.

Fast-Setting Acrylic—Adjust the consistency from thin to thick to fit your application. Color is light blue.

Fast-Setting Silicone—Mold this putty into or around any shape. Components are putty and can be mixed with your hands. Color is green.

Chemical-Resistant Silicone—This durable, tear-resistant compound easily demolds. Color is blue.

Hard (Shore 80A) General Purpose Black Urethane Sample—Contains 4 ounces.
 

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Why don't you ask them what they would recommend for your application? If I had to guess the general purpose probably be fine.
 

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60A seems a bit soft to me... I'd probably go with the FDA 78A stuff.
 
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