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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Much has been written on this topic already and the purpose of this thread is simply to have the V60-specific photographs for the suspension adjustment access in a single place for those that haven't done it yet, as well as some pertinent comments. If I missed anything, please chime in.


Rear Damper Access:

The easiest access point for removing the trim and making adjustments is through the rear seat pass-through.



Use a small screwdriver to pry out the face trim with the slot provided, exposing the 10mm securing bolt.



Next, remove the bolt. The trim piece is then held in place only by two compression clips on the top and two fixed arms on the bottom.



This next step of getting the trim pieces out was the only mildly challenging aspect of this from my experience. On the first one, I tried to be as careful as possible with various tools so that I wouldn't break the clips. They broke anyway. On the second one, I used a wide pry bar at the top, listened to the plastic pieces snap and was done on 5 seconds. My advice is to not be shy since the bolt holds everything in tightly and the broken bits are hidden. No one will know.

You can see here why the top clips break. They're designed to permanently hold the trim in place as they snap up behind the panel upon installation.



This shows the bottom clips. Ideally you want these bottom clips intact so that you can hook the trim piece at the bottom when replacing the trim but it's not an issue if you break these as well.




Rear Damper Adjustment:

With the rear trim pieces removed, the gold adjustment knob will be accessible towards the front of the car. It's a fairly long reach but as long as you can get a fingertip on the side of the knurled knob, you'll be able to adjust it. For those of you with short fingers or very large hands, the adjustment tool available from Polestar's web site will allow you to gain access to the adjustment knob. The adjustment knob turns easily mid range, but it is rather tight as it reaches its full clockwise position when baselining to 0 clicks. Use perceived rotational travel in combination with the subtle clicks to count out to your desired setting then replace the trim via the 10mm bolt.


Front Damper Access:

For the front, if right handed turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. The damper orientation is opposite to the rear with the adjuster on the bottom. Remove the rubber dust cover and adjust the setting from the back on the left side of the car...





... and from the front on the right side of the car. This way you don't have to reposition the wheel and your dominant hand is making the adjustment.




Front Damper Adjustment:

The front damper adjustment is the same as the rear, but even easier since you can get both your finger and thumb on the knurled adjustment knob.


Settings:

The following settings recommendations were taken directly from the Polestar Official thread on this forum, but there is a lot of great commentary from others on their personal experiences with various settings under a range of road conditions and driving scenarios.

S/V60 Polestar recommended damper settings

F = Front
R = Rear
Number = Amount of clicks

Base setting: F10 R10
(the best overall setting for performance and all-year usage)

Dry track: F10 R5
(stiffer rear)

Wet track: F15 R5
(softer front, stiffer rear)

Snow: F20 R10
(extra soft front)

Ice: F15 R5
(softer front, stiffer rear)

Rough roads: F15 R13
(softer front, softer rear)

Comfort: F20 R15
(extra soft front, softer rear)

Start by turning the adjustment knob to the bottom (clockwise) and then count the number of ”clicks” when turning the adjustment wheel back out (anti clockwise).

When the dampers are fully turned in they are as hard as possible (few clicks).
When the dampers are fully turned out they are as soft as possible (many clicks).
 

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Rear Damper Access:

The easiest access point for removing the trim and making adjustments is through the rear seat pass-through.


Next, remove the bolt. The trim piece is then held in place only by two compression clips on the top and two fixed arms on the bottom.








Rear Damper Adjustment:

With the rear trim pieces removed, the gold adjustment knob will be accessible towards the front of the car. It's a fairly long reach but as long as you can get a fingertip on the side of the knurled knob, you'll be able to adjust it. For those of you with short fingers or very large hands, the adjustment tool available from Polestar's web site will allow you to gain access to the adjustment knob. The adjustment knob turns easily mid range, but it is rather tight as it reaches its full clockwise position when baselining to 0 clicks. Use perceived rotational travel in combination with the subtle clicks to count out to your desired setting then replace the trim via the 10mm bolt.

Doesn't the Polestar tool eliminate removing the inner clip, etc. and make the rear adjustment easier?
 

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Doesn't the Polestar tool eliminate removing the inner clip, etc. and make the rear adjustment easier?
You still need to remove the rear trim pieces and anchors to access the golden knobs with the Polestar tool. Yes, I have the tool.
 

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You still need to remove the rear trim pieces and anchors to access the golden knobs with the Polestar tool. Yes, I have the tool.
So all the pieces described must be removed to use one's fingers or the tool.
 

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Correct.

The tool is handy when the golden knobs are too hot to touch, such as adjusting between sessions at the track. Otherwise your fingers are sufficient if they are small enough.
 

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So all the pieces described must be removed to use one's fingers or the tool.
It's very easy once you have done it once and see that it's more obvious than it appears in the written instructions or even pics. I can remove, adjust and replace the rears in 5 or 6 minutes for the pair. Fronts take 1 minute or less each.

And thanks for putting the directions in one convenient spot!
 

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Will the dealer do things this way? - for those of us who would prefer the dealer "breaks" something to gain access to make requested adjustments
 

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Will the dealer do things this way? - for those of us who would prefer the dealer "breaks" something to gain access to make requested adjustments
Dealer does exactly the same thing. My dealer broke the plastic clip, which I said "who cares" to once I realized the bolt holds the important pieces together. As mentioned above, it's quite difficult to remove the plastic housing without breaking the clips. If the clips are important to you, leave your rear dampers alone ;)
 

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Will the dealer do things this way? - for those of us who would prefer the dealer "breaks" something to gain access to make requested adjustments
My first adjustment the dealer removed the rear damper to do the adjustment but this was before P* clued us all into the location of the pieces in the trunk. After that we just went in through the trunk and broke the clips. He tried doing it real gentle but they broke anyway. I didn't care once I saw what was actually holding it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I just leave the clips off all the time. I drive around with holes in my trunk and I am ok with it ;)
You gave me an idea Foxy... I don't need the latches to be functional either so I reassembled them with the front trim pieces, ground off the 4 clips (what was left of them) and attached a small rare earth magnet to the back of each with some electrical tape. Now I can just snap them in and out using the pull down as a handle. It doesn't rattle because of the magnet and now the rear damper adjustment is as quick as the front.


https://vimeo.com/138074902
 

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Heh, nice idea motorhead. Just don't tie down a heavy load to those latches.
 

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motorhead, this is awesome. Thank you for posting. Has anyone with an S60 figured out how to adjust the rear dampers "at home"? Frankly I'm scared to let either of the two P* dealers around me try it because they admitted to me that they do not know about the P* suspension system.
 

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Mr motor
Very smart

Can you get any light into the tunnel
After pulling the now faux tie downs out
Aka fantastic voyage
 

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You gave me an idea Foxy... I don't need the latches to be functional either so I reassembled them with the front trim pieces, ground off the 4 clips (what was left of them) and attached a small rare earth magnet to the back of each with some electrical tape. Now I can just snap them in and out using the pull down as a handle. It doesn't rattle because of the magnet and now the rear damper adjustment is as quick as the front.


https://vimeo.com/138074902
Very nice, so just a magnet and some tape?
 

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Just did my first adjustment tonight...thanks again to motorhead for his documentation, it was extremely helpful to say the least. Couple minor adds from my experience:

- I used auto trim removal tools and didn't break the tabs on either housing for the cargo net. Could have been luck too.
- I wasn't expecting the damper adjustment knobs to be visible, but they could be seen very clearly

 
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