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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
88,000 miles on odometer. Right rear wheel, caliper, & rotor removed.

In video, I'm turning the hub with wrench on axle bolt. First rotating it rearward, then about 1/2 way through video, I flip switch on wrench and rotating forward. Hear grinding noise? It seems to be coming from CV joint. I put my head near rear differential (yes, car is on jack stand), but no noise there. CV boot is in good condition, with no grease spatter. Periodically while rotating hub with wrench, I can feel it bind and almost locks up, but with a little more effort, it will rotate again.

Was quiet on my way home from work (27 mile trip) in the rain, parked car for approx 3 hours at church, then drove home (still in the rain). Heard this noise from inside the car on the way home, and my wife heard it from outside the car. From inside the car, it almost sounded like something possibly stuck between rotor and caliper/pad or splash shield. When I got home (about 3/4 mile away), I pulled car into garage, jacked it up, and started investigating. No warning lights or messages. No noise this morning on drive into work, also in the rain.

I am suspecting the rear CV joint has gone bad, but would like to receive some feedback from you. I shopped around internet tonight, but the sites I visit sell front axle. Tasca says call for price, but the front axles are $333 each. It's interesting that they differentiate rear axles between manual and auto transmission. I can understand with the front axles (probably different lengths), but I would't think that of the rear axles.

I've been searching Swedespeed for a how-to on removing rear axle to no avail. I'd like to see some photos. There are lots of threads about the front axle. I would say it is a matter of unbolting the rear suspension, hub, etc. and pulling the axle from the hub and rear differential. Then replace it. If it weren't my daily driver, I'd tackle the job myself. But I fear not having the right tool if I get into a bind or something doesn't come apart quite right and I'm stuck. So, I am inclined to have my independent mechanic do the work, but he is 60 miles away. Any thoughts on driving the car in this condition, at least to my mechanic? I suppose the bearing in the CV joint have worn out or failed in some way, but the pins/pivot shaft/journal cross or yokes have not fractured or separated.

Any suggestions on sources for replacement axle? I've checked Tasca, FCP Groton, VIVA, Rock Auto. I would prefer to go with new OE part, rather than used or rebuilt. But I am open to suggestions and opinions.

I am also open to other suggestions as to what has failed.

Cheers and thank you,
Melvin

 

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I have never seen a rear axle on a P2 AWD fail. By the looks of it, I would wager that you have an original and failing wheel bearing. Google search this site and see some of the DIYs, totally doable. I bet once you have the bearing in your hand you'll feel the play/rough spots in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After putting my car back together, I rotated the wheel and pushed/pulled the wheel. See video below. There is approx 2 mm of play inboard/outboard of the outer diameter of the wheel. I would assume the movement should be nil. With the wheel removed, there is some play in the rotor when I apply the same side loads, albeit less movement than the wheel because of the smaller diameter of the rotor compared to the wheel.

volvodrummer, I suspect you might be right about the bearing.

This is my first experience with a potentially failed bearing, so forgive my ignorance/inexperience. The many threads I've read about bearing failure seemed to describe the noise as a constant humming that would come and go as the car turned and loaded/unloaded that wheel/hub. That hasn't been the case with my car.

I heard the noise from inside the cabin a couple weeks ago, but went away the next day or so. At the time, I thought some debris may have been lodged between brake components, or maybe bearing. From what I recall, it was wet then and I waited for dry weather and see if the noise is still there. It wasn't, until today's rain. But it wasn't noisy this morning on the way to work in the rain. Hmmm.

 

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Hi mate,
It is the wheel bearing what's shot, but what makes me laugh is how with OEM bushings you can not feel such a play... I'd say this is one more argument against OEM bushings!

Good luck with the fix, go DIY and post tons of pictures!
 

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rear bearing for sure. Replace he dust deal between the axle and te bearing too. Get ready to do the other side soon too.
 

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Wheel Bearing is finished. Do new E-Brake Shoes while you are in there, if those fail, you can wreck the whole rear upright (big $$)...

I have 133k and have already replaced all 4 Wheel Bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Wheel bearing it is! I picked up a new OE one yesterday. I am trying to beat the bloody old one off now. PB Blaster, persuader, chisel, patience, perseverance, etc.

Parking brake shoe is just starting to de-laminate (approx 25 mm), so I'll replace those too. I use mine everyday. ABS wheel speed sensor is toast (including warning light as of yesterday), so I'll replace that as well.

I was a bit on the fence of OE versus aftermarket. I bought OE. It comes as a kit with some plastic rings, and with instructions to apply anti-seize when installing it. Go figure... :roll eyes:

I'll probably post a how-to with all the gory details after I put it back together.
 
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