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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering gathering parts to boost the hp on the old b20 a bit. Been looking at several businesses offering multiple products, and was wanting to get the group's input on a few things.

#1 has anyone used the IPD street performance or street torque cam kits, and if so, what was your impression?

#2 would it be, in the long run, just cheaper to purchase a performance built b20 and just send mine in as a core?

#3 Is there a notieable performance increase with just a kam/lifter/pushrod configuration? Or would increasing the displacement and valve diameters be required?

#4 It goes without saying that some modification of the intake/exhaust set up on the car would be needed, but does anyone recommend a specific header from a distributer?

Thanks again guys for not being completely annoyed with the newbie (well, hopefully you're not).

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh, an addendum to #1, is there a better, more ost effective option out there that someone would reccomend?

Brad
 

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"...gathering parts to boost the hp on the old b20 a bit..."

Might be best to completely rebuild the B20 and add performance items during the re-assembly.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, the rookie gotted thumped with a google search he could have done himself, I get it, I will just find another place to ask my dumb questions.
 

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Amazon63,

I'm in the same court as you. I'm in the middle of my B20B build for a 142 and mainly the only things I have upgraded are main seals, aluminum timing gear, valves and seats on head. Otherwise, its a stock "C" Grind motor. I admit that I am having it balanced to promote long bearing life, however my bottom end was in excellent shape when I disassembled it at 170K miles. Balancing is just a compulsory thing for me in my rebuilds.

I had plenty of fast cars when I was younger, now I just want to enjoy driving a classic, reliable car everyday I can. ...to work or to the lake for fishing with my kids, it will pull my vintage sears aluminum lite boat just fine, and it's fun while getting decent fuel economy.

Don't misunderstand me though, there is nothing wrong with building a performance motor, I have done plenty, it's just up to each individual and what they are looking for in return.
 

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Brad,

Building performance B18/20s is a big part of what I do for a living. What limits power in these engines is how well (or poorly) the head flows, particularly on the exhaust side. The single best thing you can do to improve performance is a good porting job on the head. Without that, there's nothing else that has much effect, although a cam change would give you some slight improvement (slight) at the expense of some loss of tractability.

A header does essentially nothing for a street driven engine, and may actually cost you power.
 

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Brad,

Building performance B18/20s is a big part of what I do for a living. What limits power in these engines is how well (or poorly) the head flows, particularly on the exhaust side. The single best thing you can do to improve performance is a good porting job on the head. Without that, there's nothing else that has much effect, although a cam change would give you some slight improvement (slight) at the expense of some loss of tractability.

A header does essentially nothing for a street driven engine, and may actually cost you power.
At Phil's suggestion I just traded my ipd header and custom (too loud) exhaust system for a Simons Sport exhaust, which bolts on to your original exhaust manifold. Sound was reduced overall, though still sporty, and the car definitely feels like it has more guts than it had previously (which is meant to underscore Phil's point above about headers actually costing you power).

If you really like headers, I believe Phil has elsewhere endorsed Stahl (http://www.stahlheaders.com/index.htm) - though only really beefy builds can benefit appreciably from the enhanced flow.
 

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Headers work by enhancing flow during cam overlap. If your cam doesn't have much overlap (and the stock Volvo cams don't), there's nothing for a header to work on.
 

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The stock iron manifold from any injected B20 and the stack dual down pipes works really well. The exhaust portion of the integrated carb manifold with auxiliary butterflies is functionally identical if you cut the intake portion away (I don't like that intake at all). R-Sport recommended that exhaust on for higher-rated engine kits in the '70s, with a suggestion that the head pipes could be extended a few inches, but this is not critical. The Simons kit includes the head pipes, but I don't know if they are longer than stock or not.

I don't mean to sound like the Simons exhaust is the end-all and be-all of exhaust systems -- it works well with stock or moderately tuned B18s or B20s, and you can install it yourself. It's not what I would use on a more aggressively modified engine.
 

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Where in Atlanta are you located? I live in the area and would love to meet another Amazon owner.

I replaced my B18 with an automatic transmission with a B20 and M41 manual/overdrive over the winter. I had the head (originally from a fuel-injection engine) skimmed down a bit to bump the compression a little bit, running a think MLS head gasket, and ditched the anemic automatic cam for a Volvo D grind. I'm still using stock valve springs and valves, but new hardened exhaust seats. Exhaust is a dual-outlet stock manifold, and a rusted-out stock exhaust (for now). I wanted to stick with the stock SU carb setup (which I had overhauled), so that is about as wild as I was willing to get. Had everything balanced and refinished while it was apart as well. It's significantly peppier than when it was a slushbox with a 40 year old engine, but that's not saying much. It's still not a "fast" car, and likely never will be.
 

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I don't mean to sound like the Simons exhaust is the end-all and be-all of exhaust systems -- it works well with stock or moderately tuned B18s or B20s, and you can install it yourself. It's not what I would use on a more aggressively modified engine.
Where can one purchase a Simons setups? I think IPD stopped selling it about two years ago (?).
 

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The manifold pictured in the link is an *intake* manifold for a Weber DCOE. I was pretty sure we were talking about an *exhaust* manifold, right? Phil Singher's referring to the stock Volvo exhaust main - the one that came with your engine - which (I'm told) is an exceptionally efficient design. If you're running SUs, there's probably no reason to even think about changing the manifold.
 

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You're right, as I see the link. The manifold shown at the very bottom is the standard dual downpipe manifold or the FI version thereof, furnished on most B18/20 engines since 1967. That is the one you want.
 

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Um, no. That is a exhaust manifold on the bottom to the right. As evident by having 4 intakes into the manifold, one on each extreme of the engine, and two in the middle. Furthermore this appears to be a scanned page from a Volvo catalog, listing and detailing exhaust components..

I didn't talk about swapping anything out :)
Yes, sorry. Didn't scroll all the way down to the bottom to see the picture there. Thanks for clarifying.
 

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Walrus3 said:
The manifold shown at the very bottom is the standard dual downpipe manifold or the FI version thereof, furnished on most B18/20 engines since 1967. That is the one you want.


Pretty sure I have this one, but mine has little attachments (o2? trying to find something in kjet downloads) threaded in as arrowed (top left you can see the hole, others hidden in pic). Welding reccomended to fill or... for carb setup?

From what I'm gathering, the stock exhaust will not bolt up so I'll need something like the Simons down pipe?
 

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Some of the later injection manifolds have plugs there. I don't know what for -- that's where you'd normally put sensors to measure exhaust gas temperature (EGT), but no injection system I know of uses EGT as an input. There's no reason to do anything other than leave them as they are.

You will need the dual headpipes.
 

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As an addendum to what Phil said, the plugs are good, the holes were for an air injection system used in 74 and 75 with an air pump (shudder!).
Don't weld them!
The dual downpipe is an OEM item for 67 and later 122s, p/n 672196, or if you get the Simons system it will work fine also. Just note that with that manifold you need pipes for 67 and later.
 

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On the manifold topic I have a (I belive) 67 with the duel down pipe exhaust and intake combined. But it's not the one with the butterfly on the intake. Is this a good set up as is? Or do you guys cut these and use the older aluninum intake? (I have one of those as well) Thanks.
 
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