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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some suggestions as far as performance upgrades. I'm not looking to build a racer, however I live near Atlanta, GA and anyone who has driven in that area knows the gripping the steering wheel, praying not to die manner that most people drive here. Before dismantling most of the peripheral engine components and rebuilding the carb (Webber) I plan to get knee deep in the timing of the engine.

Before starting the work, the car struggled to get to 65mph, I'm hoping not to have that issue afterward. I want to add a bit more power, and I am, as many are, on a budget. I plan to get a performance header and exhaust system, and p&p the head. What would be an economical, less time and labor intensive performance option? A street performance can? Thanks for any suggestions. 67 122s, b20b, Webber carb.

Brad
 

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I am not sure if I fully understand what you are saying. But a stock B18B, or even a B18D, should easily reach and exceed 65, or even 85 (but will be a bit noisy at those speeds). My B18B starts feeling out of steam at around 95 on the speedometer, which is probably not too far off in real speed. If your goal is to cruise nicely in the 65-75 range with plenty of acceleration left, you do not really need any performance upgrades, you just want to make sure the engine is built to normal specs.

This is with the SU carbs of course. Even though with the Weber it may be a bit slower, I doubt it will be by much.

So, may be you should try a good tune-up first. Unless I misunderstood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I plan to perform a good tune up when I put everything back together. I already did most of the tune up work before dismantling. The internals were all in good shape, but the Webber had seen better days. I know that with the b20 of should have performed better. I don't know if it was a timing issue that still needs to be remedied or not.

I'm looking to add some HP, in a budget minded fashion. I would like it to perform much better than it did previously (not sounding and feeling like a meltdown was eminent at 60-65mph).
 

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Brad,
Have a look over at the VClassics site and check out their archives. Almost every question I had for Phil S(very knowledgeable B motor builder) was answered from engine building to tranny swaps. Do agree with Dim the engine does sound out of tune though.
 

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Looking for some suggestions as far as performance upgrades. I'm not looking to build a racer, however I live near Atlanta, GA and anyone who has driven in that area knows the gripping the steering wheel, praying not to die manner that most people drive here. Before dismantling most of the peripheral engine components and rebuilding the carb (Webber) I plan to get knee deep in the timing of the engine.

Before starting the work, the car struggled to get to 65mph, I'm hoping not to have that issue afterward. I want to add a bit more power, and I am, as many are, on a budget. I plan to get a performance header and exhaust system, and p&p the head. What would be an economical, less time and labor intensive performance option? A street performance can? Thanks for any suggestions. 67 122s, b20b, Webber carb.

Brad
Performance upgrades will have the desired results ONLY when you begin with all drive components in original or better condition.

Save your money until the B20 is running normally.

Once there visualize the FINAL PRODUCT in your mind and work toward that goal.

Your Amazon with a healthy B20 and 4-speed will keep up with Atlanta's traffic just fine.

Looking at your blog it appears that you are serious about this classic Volvo. Given this, what is your $$$ budget for engine upgrades?

George Dill
 

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Took a glance on some of the road tests I have. The acceleration (based on corrected speedometer) from 60-70 mph on 3rd gear is about 6 seconds with the B18D and about 5 seconds with the B18B. Should be a bit better with the B20B, but did not look. On 4th gear, it should take about 15-20% longer. If your car takes considerably longer than these times, say 50% longer or more, the engine is either out of tune or may be in need for overhaul.
 

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Brad,
Hey, I'm not too far from you, I live in Greenville, SC. I used to daily drive a '68 2 door with a stock '73 B20 with dual SUs, with a 4.3 rear end out of a P1800 and 195/65R15 tires. First gear was almost unnecessary, the car accelerated very strongly and was a real blast to drive. It would run up to about 100mph at 6000 rpm, which is as fast as I ever took it.

Currently my driver is a '67 wagon with a stock b18, but even with the heavier wagon and ~85hp B18, I have no trouble getting up to speed or running on the highway.

I would check your basic tuning items, points, plugs, timing, valve lash, and carb...I've never run a Weber but they're supposed to be very simple to work on and rebuild. Honestly, for as much malignment as the SUs get, I've lived with them for tens of thousands of miles and don't get much trouble out of them. Same with points. If you have the 2bbl manifold you might be able to swap to like a Motorcraft 2150 carb. I've worked on them before (on a ford product) and like them alot- easy to work on, tune, and rebuild. It might fit your manifold- I'd be interested to see if it would. You can buy those carbs used on ebay for like $35, and rebuild kits are widely available at parts stores.

I have a 4 door I was driving for awhile that has a IPD header, it seemed to breath a bit better and definitely sounds better. But, for much less money, you can split the Y in the dual downpipe and run a dual exhaust. This sounds great and gives a little better flow. I did this on another 2 door we used to race, and ran a dual in/ dual out muffler with it (racing series required a muffler).

The Volvo heads are actually pretty good (for non-cross flow heads), but you can clean them up a bit- I have.

Unless you plan on going into the engine, I'd stay away from a cam swap. That's $400+ and really just moves your powerband up.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, looks like I will go ahead with a thorough tune up and start from there. I am interested to see how the freshly rebuilt carb functions. Thanks for all the help guys. Ill def keep everybody posted on the progress. Next week, the painless wiring goes in, then I'll put everything back together and fire the old girl up.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mike, can you pm me or email me off list, id like to get some more info on that exhaust idea

Brad
 

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A lot of the heat in the interior during the summer months come from the exhaust. I am wondering, if you have to exhaust pipes under the floor boards, will that make it hotter inside the car? Or will the cooler exhaust pipes bring less heat in the car? The two exhausts on the 440 certainly feat up the floor good, but the 440 has a lot more waste heat, and it also has AC.
 

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That mopar engine is the equivalent of (4) B18s or (3.5) B20s in volume. I don't think the drag of AC compressor has anything to do with the interior of the dodge heating up.
 

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Yeah, that's not what I meant. What I was trying to say is that the 440 works at much lower loads and therefore at a much lower efficiency level, therefore more waste heat.

But on Mike's conversion. Each of his exhaust pipes runs cooler than the single one. And the heat transfer through radiation is proportional to T^4. So, ... may be, there is an advantage, even though you heat up twice as much floor board.
 

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Hmm... sort off.

About as much heat goes on the exhaust as on the radiator.

For a given road load, if you are using a larger engine, it is operating at a more closed throttle, and therefore at a less efficient point (for a gasoline engine, the most efficient operating condition is about 2/3rds load, and the lower load from there down, the efficiency goes south). Therefore, a larger engine operating at a lower load and less efficient point but producing the same power will have more waste heat and more exhaust heat. So, the floor board may be a bit warmer! (for that same reason, installing larger engines on the Amazon will generally increase fuel consumption). Of course, in the case of the "Dodge", the vehicle is actually larger, but the engine is disproportionally larger to the size of the vehicle.
 

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