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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok this is going to be kind of long. I bought my 07 s60 r about 2 months ago now and have driven it 4,000 miles. About 2000 miles into ownership I had to drop the oil pan due to low oil pressure at idle after long drives on hot days. There was considerable sludge that I cleaned out, I checked the pcv port and it was clear. resealed everything new. Then I had 2 coolant lines burst and replaced those, unrelated to my current issue.

To preface what has been occurring, I have had a hunch I have a boost leak as the car was tuned and it only hits about 9 lbs of boost average. it will sometimes hit 15 If I slowly ease into it but its rare. Within the past week the dipstick has shot out of the holder and oil has sprayed into the engine bay, this happened twice before I parked it.

This is not the oring issue as those have all been replaced and it is fitting snug. I also have a strange issue that when I cold start the car it has no turbo vacuumm until I drive. then its at about 12-15 depending on AC at idle.

So after the dipstick popped the second time I did some deeper research and decided based on the sludge from the oil pan that the pcv is probably clogged even though it was clear at the pan level. So I ordered the parts for the replacement and they should be here next week. So today I figured I would do a glove test just to check before I started taking things apart, and low and behold it sucks in. It doesn't suck in lightly though, it sucks hard, it would probably suck the glove in if there wasn't a "grate" at the filler cap. I have only found 1 reference to this occurring and I am wondering if it is still the PCV that is the issue. Here https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?286865-Smell-when-deep-into-throttle reply #25
The glove should deflate during idle when the blowby is low and the pcv valve is sucking, but if it is sucked in hard its a sign that your vent tube on the pcv system that runs around to the turbo intake is clogged up.

Proper check of the PCV valve is to make sure the pcv valve is sucking, and that the vent tube is venting.
I also had the issue of oil smell when deep into throttle when I first got the car but that went away soon after. One final note is that there is a decent amount of oil in the air intake before the throttle body, a hose clamp broke off there and the inside was coated with oil, not thick but enough to make things slippery.

I have heard that this could be blow-by or bad pcv. What are your opinions on this? I am a college student and would rather not throw money at something if it isn't in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will go scan with vida. Is this something i should replace or can it be cleaned with brake cleaner?


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First off... sludged up motor is baaaad. Might not be the greatest car to start off with...

More i think about this, too much crank case vacuum wouldn't cause the dipstick to pop out. Isn't that a function of positive crankcase pressure? I'd probably replace the PCV banjo bolt with the latest one available. Heck, maybe it's clogged with crap and stuck open. It is designed to be a check valve, so when the intake is on vacuum, it provides vac, but when in boost, boost doesn't escape to the crankcase. Probably good to start with diagnosing, cleaning some of the tubes, and putting in a new banjo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First off... sludged up motor is baaaad. Might not be the greatest car to start off with...

More i think about this, too much crank case vacuum wouldn't cause the dipstick to pop out. Isn't that a function of positive crankcase pressure? I'd probably replace the PCV banjo bolt with the latest one available. Heck, maybe it's clogged with crap and stuck open. It is designed to be a check valve, so when the intake is on vacuum, it provides vac, but when in boost, boost doesn't escape to the crankcase. Probably good to start with diagnosing, cleaning some of the tubes, and putting in a new banjo.
Yeah it sucks hard at idle but has only popped out twice from pressure with oil everywhere. I ran half a bottle of seafoam in the oil after dropping the pan. I am going to go through with replacing the pcv stuff and i ordered a new banjo bolt. Ill try and clean anything i am not gonna replace and see what happens


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Air mass signal too low and turbo control signal too high ECM-120D and ECM-640C respectively


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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?573442-Happiness-is-all-green&p=7320819#post7320819

check valves on canister purge valve hose, ptc nipple and/or banjo bolt and the small plastic hose that feeds into metal oil trap tube under left side of intake can all clog/fail and cause too much suction. likely you have intake leak dtc but no cel

just scan w vida
Ok so i have just finished tearing everything out and i have some interesting news. The post you linked mentioned fuel trim levels being at 1.10 which i observed with Vida after a minute of idling. So then i took everything out of the car and the hose you have pictured
was COMPLETELY dry absolutely no residue anywhere in the connections. I pulled all the T's apart and they were all dry. The banjo bold did not look clogged or the small opening on the piece next to it.

Here is a picture of how much oil was in the intake piping
and here is another spot
not much honestly.

Finally im not sure if this matters but the throttle body was ever so slightly open, you cant really tell in this picture but here it is anyways.

There isnt anything else i really noticed but i am going to dig into it more soon. Any reason why the piping would be dry? is it clogged at an earlier spot? anyways thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The TB will be slightly open. This is idle set point. I'd be more interested to see the result of the piping from the block and intake for the PCV, ie., the catch can and the delicate small diameter tubing and banjo. What parts did you replace? With the issue you're chasing and the history of these engines, you need to replace this set of parts: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21173/139868-volvo-pcv-breather-system-kit-2005-2009-p2-s60-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-turbo-5-cylinder-ipd-139868
Ill snap some pics of it it later. Those parts are coming in the mail. Do you have any idea where the second banjo bolt is located?


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Wow! ****ton of work there...

second banjo bolt is located on the block

now that youre balls deep into it - that pita vent tube small diameter plastic hose part 30731007 is 1/3 the price of a whole new vent tube. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-nipple-s80-xc90-genuine-volvo-30731007. The fcp video on how to service the pcv shows how to simply replace the hose vs entire vent tube;

also you prob already checked forum /goog searched:

ecm-640c = TCV error. that 50 dollar part can wear out (OE pierberg) - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-boost-pressure-valve-genuine-volvo-30670449 - or you have loose/ cracked hose/s = intake vacuum leak. the stock hoses are pretty thick and actually hold up over the years but can pop off or crack by the turbo...

ecm 120d maf signal error also intake leak related. MAF codes and other codes can be 'child' codes generated based on primary 'parent' issue. The MAF sensors rarely fail unless the car has aftermarket oiled air filter.

Also you prob already read somewhere - remember clear all codes after the work and give it a few days to cycle the dtc's and see what comes back. that'll give you best indicator of parent issue... usually.
 

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Ill snap some pics of it it later. Those parts are coming in the mail. Do you have any idea where the second banjo bolt is located?


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One banjo is on the underside of the intake manifold, passenger side. The other is a PITA located on the drivers side face of the block where the coolant hoses are stuffed. I lost 3 washers doing that 1 location.
 

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Likely can get away with using the small tube that JCN mentioned. Make sure the piping between the flame trap and the turbo inlet/PTC is clear.

If you replace the combo hose, get a real OEM one. When i bought the iPd hose a couple years ago, it was a cheaper alternative, but it's a turd made by MTC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok i had 15 minutes to poke into it but i wont be able to get back to it until later tonight. Here is where the intake banjo bolt connects the small hose it attaches to
and here is the TCV
it looks visually pretty new especially with the silicone hoses going to it. Finally here is where everything connects to the turbo.
I haven’t gone back there yet and may start checking hoses tonight.


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well, someone has installed an aftermarket TCV (looks like the Forge one) and a Snaab intake tubing set.
Not sure what may be happening, though. PCV is a good place to start, though. Also check any check valves, making sure they're installed the correct direction, and check that they work (blow in one end than the other end, air should only go 1 direction)
Be sure to have your battery disconnected to let the ECU re-learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What bothers me about this is the searching i have done. Clearly the dipstick popping and oil coming out has happened to others.

Most fix with new orings on the dipstick and call it good, for those that dont their post history just drops off after.

Except for one who had his turbo blow and shred his engine a week later. It bothers me that it’s somewhat common but people dont say what they did to fix it. Also it seems this happens to people who have relatively new pcv’s.


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You definitely got a few problems at hand. Tossing a couple O rings at the dipstick probably won't fix anything. If you think so, there is a gauge you can buy and shove into the dipstick. Not sure where to buy it, but it is essentially a super sensitive vacuum gauge. You should see a bit of vacuum at the dipstick at idle. When in boost, a tiny bit of positive pressure is ok. Sometimes this positive pressure is what pops out dipsticks with super old O rings, but that's usually not the case. Excessive crankcase pressure caused by crap build up somewhere is what blows out your dipstick. Remember, that dipstick is the easiest item to blow out. Usually the O rings are old and the stick comes out easily. Would rather pop the dipstick out and geyser oil than blow out something like a crank seal or a rear main, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You definitely got a few problems at hand. Tossing a couple O rings at the dipstick probably won't fix anything. If you think so, there is a gauge you can buy and shove into the dipstick. Not sure where to buy it, but it is essentially a super sensitive vacuum gauge. You should see a bit of vacuum at the dipstick at idle. When in boost, a tiny bit of positive pressure is ok. Sometimes this positive pressure is what pops out dipsticks with super old O rings, but that's usually not the case. Excessive crankcase pressure caused by crap build up somewhere is what blows out your dipstick. Remember, that dipstick is the easiest item to blow out. Usually the O rings are old and the stick comes out easily. Would rather pop the dipstick out and geyser oil than blow out something like a crank seal or a rear main, right?
Yeah i get that, im just frustrated because i want to fix the root problem and everywhere i look just leads to a dead end. Some of the people had the issue didn’t replace the orings and then just went on posting about their car with no mention of that issue ever again.


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Someone has had all that stuff apart before. That combo pipe doesn't use a green hose clamp from the factory. Pretty sure those things are usually Oetiker clamped. Maybe someone replaced that small tube before? Same goes for that check valve array. Doesn't that usually come with Oetikers from the factory?

Might want to double check all the modified or aftermarket stuff for leaks, tears, improper installation, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Someone has had all that stuff apart before. That combo pipe doesn't use a green hose clamp from the factory. Pretty sure those things are usually Oetiker clamped. Maybe someone replaced that small tube before? Same goes for that check valve array. Doesn't that usually come with Oetikers from the factory?

Might want to double check all the modified or aftermarket stuff for leaks, tears, improper installation, etc...
At this point im planning on taking out all of the easy access vacuum lines, pcv, intake piping and cleaning them because i have no idea what has been done to this car. Try and get as many of the air related sensors as possible with maf cleaner. Then im going to to clean the rest of the engine bay and tape all the loose electrical connections.

Put it all back together nice and tight and see where I end up. Probably do an oil change flush my trans once more and refill the coolant.

Hopefully then if it isn’t fix I will have ruled out a bunch of little failure points.


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