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Discussion Starter #322 (Edited)
To finish the job, I used a couple drops of gorilla glue to secure the bottom of the inner shell to the outer door card. It had been slightly separated for a long time, vibrating the cabin a bit. This was likely the first time this door card had ever been removed and it separated a bit more upon removal despite knowing what I’m doing. No broken parts though.

You can see the same date (Apr 3, 1997) in different notation, on the door shell and the door card. This date, or within a few days of this date, has been prominent throughout this car as I’ve dismantled various things over the years. And if curious this corresponds with the air bag sticker in the driver’s door jamb; it says to inspect in Apr 2007 and since this represents a ten year maintenance period, at least in USDM vehicles, this wagon was built for sure in the first week of Apr 1997. The driver’s door shell was replaced due to a love tap long ago so I don’t have that critical decal with its official born date. And the OEM decal is NLA.

Lastly, the edge of the door jamb shows the two holes with screws to the outer door handle; a plastic cap covers it. And the small guide hole near it is fitted with a rubber cap. Unneeded for the non-driver’s side (with outside key lock), this access hole is super handy to use a tool through there to move the lock pin from the exterior handle into position to capture the lock arm properly. And shine light therein to assure you got it. Amazing how precise and superb the parts on the p80 are yet how fully friendly and serviceable almost everything is when it comes time for repairs or service. Drive around with the door card off and you won’t even know it’s missing - total silence.

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Discussion Starter #323
I installed the Yatour YT-M06 into my SC901 head unit but does not work. Hoping to play some mp3 music through the car audio. I bought the Yatour new on eBay. The Volvo specific (for SC head units) Yatour harness is plugged into the 6-disc CD changer port and the yellow wire is connected to the ignition hot lead (yellow/purple stripe) in my car’s oem radio harness. I have the Yatour with the 15-pin serial connector as opposed to the 20 pin serial connector. The CD changer ports work on the 901 because I can play a CD through it from the oem six disc changer in the rear hatch. The 3 CD changer in the deck also works so I’m confident my head unit is not the problem. I have the center channel and the factory amp and all works perfectly.

When the head unit is powered on, nothing happens when tapping the CD-6 button. I tried pushing it many times. The Yatour’s LED light on the back never comes on either. I have tried both a prepared USB drive with top level directory and mp3 files in each directory and the Aux port with my iPhone separately but neither works. I’ve tried disconnecting and reconnecting the harness to the Yatour both with the radio off and with the radio on but no go. With the USB drive plugged into the Yatour and ignition on, the LED on the USB drive is lit up so it is getting power. I have confirmed 12V on this yellow/purple wire with ignition on. I messaged Yatour but not sure if it went through since it sent me over to the alibaba site. I’m guessing a bad unit. Any advice? The $160 Grom is just overkill and too expensive for me. Don’t want Bluetooth crap.
 

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Definitely sounds like something in the adapter isn't working. I'd get a Grom; having HU control over your phone is a wonderful thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #325
For the M56H with external slave and SMF, is it necessary to replace the input shaft seal as part of a clutch job? The book lists a 41mm and a 44mm OD seal that looks to be replaceable from the engine side behind the sleeve.
 

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For the M56H with external slave and SMF, is it necessary to replace the input shaft seal as part of a clutch job? The book lists a 41mm and a 44mm OD seal that looks to be replaceable from the engine side behind the sleeve.
I would do it while you're in there regardless
 

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Discussion Starter #327
Picked up a brand new wiper stalk in the states for $49. I think it’s a good deal and will match the new turn signal stalk in this wagon and resolve the slow to park from the mist position due to the extra slop in the detent.

 

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Discussion Starter #329 (Edited)
A set of ‘99 V70R tan door cards fell into my lap. The leather inserts are great but the cards themselves are not even close to how good mine are. My inserts are cracked and separated. What’s the skinny with separating the leather itself? Any tips or useful links much appreciated. I’m up to carefully doing all four, essentially removing eight and installing four. Found this but trying to figure out if I can remove the insert from the front like Bob Sterns did or if full separation is needed. Or maybe separate the inner panel and attach it to my perfect outer panel?

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...inating-and-DIY-repairs#/topics/153314?page=6
 

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separate the inner panel and attach it to my perfect outer panel?
^^^^^^
This.

The best way to attach would seem to be the red backed 3M automotive double sided stuff. Though I have used Automotive 'Goop' before successfully. The 3M would be much quicker and less messy.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
^^^^^^
This.

The best way to attach would seem to be the red backed 3M automotive double sided stuff. Though I have used Automotive 'Goop' before successfully. The 3M would be much quicker and less messy.
Ok. Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Like a moron I used a few dabs of liquid nails to secure the bottom inner panel to the RF outer door card when I had it off a few mos ago to replace the door lock actuator. I forgot I may one day find leather inserts like I now own. This one’s going to be a pita to separate if it even comes apart in one piece at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #333 (Edited)
LR VR door card separated. Took four minutes of careful work. Had to separate a couple clip mounts and remove one slice of insulation. Before and after a quality leather cleaning compound. Not perfect but much better than a split panel. I’m reusing the hand cup/lock switch panel since that would not be fun to remove and these are nice. I discovered my tan 3960 original cards are slightly lighter than these but the two-tone should be nice. It’ll take a little more holding bond than double sided trim tape since it actually needs to bend in on both sides about 3mm. We’ll see and will post results of this first one.

 

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Discussion Starter #334
Too much damage for my liking so I’m using my outer cards with these inners. Did I mention these cards came from a totaled and truly wrecked ‘99? I’m confident my wagon is worthy of them so thank you, old girl. I was too late for the front bumper that was literally cherry but already picked.

 

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Discussion Starter #335
The color difference.

 

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Discussion Starter #336 (Edited)
I ended up using Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. It’s white and thick like toothpaste. An even wavy band of adhesive on the inner panel side hitting all flat areas that will bond is all that’s needed. No concern of it weeping out. Bonds in 20 min. One and a half 2.5 oz tubes does all four panels. Prep involved scraping most of the old glue off and 1000 grit to clean up the pours and blew it off thoroughly with shop air. Also used this adhesive to secure the dual mounting bracket on the rears that had to be removed for panel separation. These mounts also secure the door ajar red lights.

The rear panels are easy and took just two clamps carefully attached with foam pads to protect the panels while it cured. I rigged a couple saw horses and some bubble wrap to let the leather inserts hang free. The fronts took seven clamps while it cured. And the front panel speaker grilles remain intact when careful so there is no need to remove. Total cure time was 24 hrs in a heated garage. I have the RF panel left to do and since the donor speaker grille in this one is chipped I’ll have to surgically cut the mounting feet off to replace it with my original grille and use some Polymix plastic weld resin I’ve got to secure the feet properly to the rear of the panel. These panels will never separate again but that’s fine.

Lastly, the Liquid Nails I used to secure a loose door panel at the bottom edge earlier in the year did not hold which is a good thing because it separated easily to salvage my original outer door card.

 

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Discussion Starter #337
Not my vehicle photo, but is this rubber hood bumper available? I can’t find it in the parts catalog.

 

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Discussion Starter #338
Ball joints on the Meyle front lower control arms were shot at 3K miles. Sourced a pair of local Moog control arms with better quality joints and bushings. Now the front end is totally quiet, but need another alignment. The clunk was extremely noticeable with the delrin subframe bushings. The rear subframe bushings were shot so couldn’t pick up on the ball joint noise before.
 

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Wow, that is impressive. What are you roads like out there? I've never heard of Meyle LCAs (or really anything Meyle) lasting, but 3k miles is a new record I think.

Hopefully you used Lemforder or genuine Volvo is the delta link bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter #340 (Edited)
Roads in the west side of the mountain passes in the PNW vary widely from outstanding to pure lunacy. It’s also pothole central up here and they suddenly appear in city driving.

Nope, I used Moog LCAs. Three year warranty. Locally sourced.
 
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