SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

301 - 320 of 357 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,898 Posts
Yeah where's your 213 relay? I think Roger is on to something here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #302
Got the rear engine pad replaced. Not very worn due to this vin having a manual transmission, but nonetheless the last engine mount to be replaced. Also a shot of the downpipe and the one piece exh man gasket Will pointed me towards. You can see the bit on the end that needs to be nibbed for p80 clearance.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #303
Related, will I need extended harnesses for the O2 sensors or will the stock wire lengths suffice? I can quite tell from a dry fit since the original cat is still in the way (I intend to plumb up the stock exhaust for the trip across town to my exhaust guy) so I’m not touching that old system beyond the connection to the exhaust flange on the turbocharger).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,525 Posts
I think you'll need an extension for the rear sensor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #305
Coolant crossover pipe cleaned up and installed. The end that goes into the block has been polished down to 1500 grit including the chamfer. Did the same for the inside of the block port. A good amount of assembly lube for the o-ring into the block as well as the port itself and it was good to go viewed from the other side (since my water pump is off).



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,525 Posts
Coolant crossover pipe cleaned up and installed. The end that goes into the block has been polished down to 1500 grit including the chamfer. Did the same for the inside of the block port. A good amount of assembly lube for the o-ring into the block as well as the port itself and it was good to go viewed from the other side (since my water pump is off).



Nice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #307
Too many projects lately so no time for the new exhaust on this wagon. I did purchase a new oem spare key for $2 shipped on eBay. Keep misplacing the single I have. One of one on that deal otherwise I would have shared. I also bought the brushed aluminum R console trim from here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,898 Posts
Too many projects lately so no time for the new exhaust on this wagon. I did purchase a new oem spare key for $2 shipped on eBay. Keep misplacing the single I have. One of one on that deal otherwise I would have shared. I also bought the brushed aluminum R console trim from here.
Oooohhhh that's gonna look good. Nice score.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #309 (Edited)
I buttoned up the rest of my wagon today, post exhaust manifold, heater hose, water pump, etc replacement. Took a final look around before startup to discover the lower heater hose is not fully seated. Removing the two orings and the plastic ring from the hose, it still will not seat to fully capture the yellow lock and it it pulls straight out. And yes the hoses are in the correct position: lower to water pipe fitting. I tried swapping yellow clips but same result. The port inside the lower fitting is also totally free of debris as far as I can tell. I used aftermarket heater hoses and clips, but they worked fine in other volvos I’ve worked on recently. I’ll pull the firewall coupler out this week to see what’s going on. It’s original. Lastly, looking at photos of yellow oem vs aftermarket clips they look identical.

EDIT: I ended up replacing the firewall coupler and used new clips which fit together like a glove. Don’t want to do this job again.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #310










 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Some old stuff removed and at this point I still need to pull the water pipe free from the block (all disconnected) and pull the old rear motor mount. Some old and new parts below to include the differences in the heat shield.

Careful with the machining of the exhaust manifold. I had the head mating surface of mine decked by the machine shop twice over the ages. Enough material had been removed on machining #2 where the whole turbo assembly was sitting a bit closer to the head, close enough where the oil drain pipe o-ring at the motor would not seal properly and spewed oil droplets all over the bottom of my car. I had to force the drain pipe in for it to fit, and tried re-seating again with a new oring after the leak to no avail. I found another exhaust manifold, installed and problem solved.

Car is looking good btw!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #312 (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,525 Posts
Need some advice...

Time to replace the subframe bushings on this ‘98. Is the two piece Kaplhenke unit the way to go today or the Yother unit from CJ? Which is easier to install? I don’t find the former on the Yother website.

https://www.bneshop.com/collections/p80/products/awd-fwd-delrin-subframe-bushings

Reference thread on the topic:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171496-delrin-subframe-bushings-yother-or-kaplhenke/


I’ve only done kaphlenke bushings on our cars so far but I did get a set of cj’s recently for comparison. I think that the ease of install difference is totally negligible and that the kaphlenke version might be a better design with the built in positive retention. Having driven Jared’s yellow with the two piece and all my fleet with the single piece the cars feel the same regardless of what style bushings. I don’t believe the two piece versions are still being made so it would end up coming down to what’s available and for what price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,898 Posts
Agree ^

only thing that would sway me either way is that the two piece makes more sense if you already need to drop the subframe to do other work since the install is trivial once the subframe is dropped. Either way you need special tools: an engine support bar in the case of the two piece or the special install tool for the one piece (even with a BFH and gravity in my favor it still took a lot to pound the one piece bushings into the subframe that's going in my 850R). Subframe can be dropped far enough to install the one piece bushings without disconnecting anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #315 (Edited)
So, who makes the one piece? The Kaplhenke site’s photo shows it in two pieces.

And does CJ not supply these right now since I don’t see them on Yother.com?

I’m doing this with the subframe in place. Should have done this when the motor trans was out. Still it seems reasonably easy to press the bushing in with wood between the body and subframe cradle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,898 Posts
Kaplhenke is one piece
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #317
Thank you Jared and Will as always. I will go with Kaplhenke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #318 (Edited)
Replaced RF door catch/lock actuator.

Symptom: RF door locks from inside but can be opened from the outside when locked and set the alarm.

Thanks to Will...the cable itself can be removed.

Some photos and notes:

-outer door handle comes apart for deep cleaning with spring moved to the long slot
-broken white plastic arm on orig part dated Apr 3, 1997; photos marked up with the functional unit properly working in unlocked and locked positions; that black slide connected by the pivot where the arrow is pointing sets a lever preventing outside access
-replaced with 98 unit with a Feb 12, 1998 date with a good motor/ground strap
-showed the drivers outer handle just for reference
-the salvaged part I got from the red wagon I parted a few years ago had its lock tang on the cable broken off at the inner door handle side so I swapped cables; this tang is critical to keep the cable end seated into the inside door pull.





























 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #320
Maybe somebody know. Are these door handle springs available to buy separately?
I do not see the spring listed separately in the IPB. Pull a handle from the yard or surely several folks here have one for sale.
 
301 - 320 of 357 Posts
Top