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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have identical symptoms as in this post (though sound is coming from both left and right front end):<p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=118556" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=118556</A><p>-Replaced end links, sound is still there.<br>-Shocks are only 30K miles old and work fine, so doubt that's the issue.<br>-Spring seats are also only 30K old (were replaced when the shocks went bad in 2006 and were warrantied). <br>-Visually inspected the control arm bushings and ball joint (didn't look bad, but then again, not sure I'd know a bad one vs a good one)<br>-Replaced the tranny mount (and will be doing upper engine mount soon too) but not certain this would even be related.<p>I suspect it's the spring seats because <br>a) the sound, while it emanates from the front end, is a "hollow" thump (not a rattle, klunk, or similar "hard" sound) and <br>b) the sound seems to emanate from closer to the driver than to the road (e.g. when I drive slowly on a rough road next to a wall (like in an alley) the sound can't be heard echoing against the wall<p>HOWEVER, i did the "twist test" as suggested by JRL in the above post and by others in the multiple posts regarding front end noises, and found that I could get them to move only about 25-30 degrees. When I released the wrench, the nuts would return to their starting position. So..<p>1) Is it still possible for the spring seats to be bad? <br>2) if you think they're good, what's the best test to see if it's the control arm bushings and/or ball joints (and/or what are the symptoms of a bad CA bushing or ball joint?<p>Thanks<br>
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (icebiker)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>icebiker</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>HOWEVER, i did the "twist test" as suggested by JRL in the above post and by others in the multiple posts regarding front end noises, and found that I could get them to move only about 25-30 degrees. When I released the wrench, the nuts would return to their starting position. So..<p>1) Is it still possible for the spring seats to be bad? <br>2) if you think they're good, what's the best test to see if it's the control arm bushings and/or ball joints (and/or what are the symptoms of a bad CA bushing or ball joint?<p>Thanks<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Anything is possible by slightly torn/worn spring seats should not "thunk"<br>Only when they're completely shot is when that happens.<br>If all you could turn the nut was 30 degrees and it snapped back you have time and that's not the noise (well, it shouldn't be)! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (icebiker)

That sounds a lot like the thumping sound I had. My spring seats were bad, once replaced (just yesterday) the sound was gone.<p>I had the same experience though, windows open, I could hardly hear it. And your descriptions sounds like what mine sounded like.
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (iamnotmad)

thanks gents....JRL, in case the seats are OK, any advice on what a bad ball joint looks/sounds like?
 

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I am starting to wonder the same about my R...63,000 miles now.
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (icebiker)

Any Volvo front end clunk can be any one of the suspension parts gone bad<br>Spring seats<br>Control arm/ball joint<br>Bad outer tie rod<br>etc.
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (JRL)

Don't forget link rods, very common rattle.
 

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Re: Passed the "twist test", yet thumping is still there... (JRL)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JRL</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any Volvo front end clunk can be any one of the suspension parts gone bad<br>Spring seats<br>Control arm/ball joint<br>Bad outer tie rod<br>etc.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'm having similar problems, and spring seats seem ok with the test.<p>Any other quick diagnosis tips to identify or eliminate other sources? I'd like to stock up on the correct iPD replacements and take them to the dealer for install, rather than dealing with the original volvo parts. So far I am thinking of going with at least a set of front endlinks and ball joints for my 48K of chicagoland potholes
 
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