SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After much deliberation, I have decided to paint the side moldings on my 01 V70 to match. I will probably end up doing the same to the side sills and bumper sills. I always thought my silver wagon was a bit stodgy and think the color matching might spruce it up a bit. If anybody has any other ideas to dress it up, let me know. I have very dark tinted windows and am also tossing around the idea of blacking out the b-pillar.

I was wondering if anybody has done this and give me some input on what they learned in the process. I used to be a painter and will be using professional equipment, I was just wondering if anybody had experience with this particular material(the side moldings). Tips on what primer or preparation methods to use would be very useful.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Modified by dugums at 9:17 PM 7-9-2006

Modified by dugums at 9:17 PM 7-9-2006
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,839 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Be very careful removing the moldings from the door.
They can be damaged easily and you will then have to buy new ones.

When we do it, we just use new moldings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (VolvoMax)

Moldings came off pretty easy. I was hoping I could damage them so I would HAVE to buy the primed factory ones.... No such luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

I ended up sanding and prepping the original moldings instead of using the primed ones from Volvo. Other than the drying time the project is pretty quick.

I had a spare molding which I experimented with first, and this is what I found:

1. Use the adhesive promoter before the initial sanding. There is too much inconsitency in the molding itself and the heat from sanding it bare can actually mis-shape or crumble the material... I was actually thinking I would need to skim-coat the moldings with bondo, but it was not necessary... Using the promoter seals the rubber and makes it possible to sand it very smooth. I used 400 grit paper dry and then wet....

2. I used a high build flexible primer. The flexible primer is especially important for the front moldings, as they will be exposed to bugs, stones, etc.

3. Sand and wet sand the primer. At this point you may find some areas where maybe you didn't shave down the rubber enough. Go back and dry sand/wet sand/prime these areas again.

4. Once the primer has been wet sanded (800 grit was fine enough for this) go ahead and apply the paint.... Make sure to start with a few light coats to build a nice base and ensure complete coverage.

5. After the color dried for an hour, I started to clearcoat in the same fashion. I really concentrated on the front moldings and gave them an extra couple coats for further protection.

No wet sanding of the paint or clearcoat is required for the project. The size of the moldings makes it a non-issue. Took me the whole day on a Sunday, but most of it was drying time... Probably a total of 1.5-2 hrs of total working time (including removal and installation of moldings.




Modified by dugums at 9:06 PM 9-9-2006
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Looks good Doug -- nice job!

BTW, thanks again for the fobs! My service writer tells me I need the code that came with them when new to reprogram but I haven't given up yet....and as your post showed I can always move the modules out of my switchblade keys.

Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (jackf)

Yup, you have to switch the boards... I purposely did that way to avoid having to buy new fobs, downloads and having to deal with the service dept....

Just do it! It probably took you longer to write that post than it would to do the mod.....
http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Dive in....

Let me know if you need anything else!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63,543 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Good job. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
I've been painting moldings for years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (Steely)

Thanks!

I definitely prefer the look... I did not paint the top end of the bumper, I figured it would be better to leave that more durable...

Do you guys think it would look better if I painted that???


I'm still undecided on whether I'll do the lower bumper and side sills....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,737 Posts
Keep it black and "durable." I really like the look in the rear anyway!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,839 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Bumper is going to be harder to do.

You will probably have to pull it off the car to do a proper job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (VolvoMax)

Don't have a problem with taking it off.... I just can't figure out if it would look better or not.... What do you think???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,366 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

I like it the way it is. You did a great job!

Question- Are you in the autobody business or did you just have access to all the equipment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,797 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Nice job! Looks good the way you've got it. Likelihood of getting bumped is greater on the ends; might be a consideration.

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (Wayne T5)

I used to do body work, but I don't see this being a problem for many people... I actually did not have access to the shop I thought I was going to and just ended up using a compressor and a pretty bad gun to shoot the clear...

The adhesion promoter and primer I had in spray cans (left over from another project) and the silver was factory aerosol... It's not the best way to do it, but I am very happy with the results...

Patience and prep are the key.... Don't rush anything...

Modified by dugums at 9:05 PM 9-9-2006
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

To do the b and c post to see if you will like it try black electrical tape or go to a vinyl sign guy and get some flat black or semi flat flat vinyl you coul\d leave the vinyl on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (zzrguy)

JRL has pics of both the B and C pillars...

I had the B pillar done with a CF Vinyl, but that looked too ricey for me...

I'm thinking I'll do both the B and C a la JRL, but I am going to stripe it right at the window line... It looks like JRL has the some of the frame around the window done too, I want to keep the windows looking as small as possible..

I'm trying to sell my car to get an 04 T5M, but so far no takers... If the 04 gets sold, I'll keep going on this one and post pics...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (Copeland)

Cope-

4 cans adhesion promoter @ ~5.00 per can: 20.00.

5 cans flexible high build primer @ ~5.00 per can: 25.00

5 cans(small) of Volvo 426 silver @ ~7.00 per can: 35.00
(don't throw a fit when your volvo dealer quotes you, I got these from a friend at a discount... I think they are about 18.00 ea from Volvo. Go online and order from one of those factory paint matching companies, that give you more for the $)

Huge quantities of clear: 0.00 (body shop gave me free reign)

You should be able to pick up some relatively good clear in an aerosol for about 5.00 a can... I have had problems with the Volvo clear that comes with the Volvo aerosol, I don't recommend it...
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top