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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After much deliberation, I have decided to paint the side moldings on my 01 V70 to match. I will probably end up doing the same to the side sills and bumper sills. I always thought my silver wagon was a bit stodgy and think the color matching might spruce it up a bit. If anybody has any other ideas to dress it up, let me know. I have very dark tinted windows and am also tossing around the idea of blacking out the b-pillar.<p>I was wondering if anybody has done this and give me some input on what they learned in the process. I used to be a painter and will be using professional equipment, I was just wondering if anybody had experience with this particular material(the side moldings). Tips on what primer or preparation methods to use would be very useful.<p>Thanks in advance for your help! <p><br><i>Modified by dugums at 9:17 PM 7-9-2006</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by dugums at 9:17 PM 7-9-2006</i>
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Be very careful removing the moldings from the door.<br>They can be damaged easily and you will then have to buy new ones.<p>When we do it, we just use new moldings.<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (VolvoMax)

Moldings came off pretty easy. I was hoping I could damage them so I would HAVE to buy the primed factory ones.... No such luck! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

I ended up sanding and prepping the original moldings instead of using the primed ones from Volvo. Other than the drying time the project is pretty quick.<p>I had a spare molding which I experimented with first, and this is what I found: <p>1. Use the adhesive promoter before the initial sanding. There is too much inconsitency in the molding itself and the heat from sanding it bare can actually mis-shape or crumble the material... I was actually thinking I would need to skim-coat the moldings with bondo, but it was not necessary... Using the promoter seals the rubber and makes it possible to sand it very smooth. I used 400 grit paper dry and then wet....<p>2. I used a high build flexible primer. The flexible primer is especially important for the front moldings, as they will be exposed to bugs, stones, etc. <p>3. Sand and wet sand the primer. At this point you may find some areas where maybe you didn't shave down the rubber enough. Go back and dry sand/wet sand/prime these areas again. <p>4. Once the primer has been wet sanded (800 grit was fine enough for this) go ahead and apply the paint.... Make sure to start with a few light coats to build a nice base and ensure complete coverage. <p>5. After the color dried for an hour, I started to clearcoat in the same fashion. I really concentrated on the front moldings and gave them an extra couple coats for further protection.<p>No wet sanding of the paint or clearcoat is required for the project. The size of the moldings makes it a non-issue. Took me the whole day on a Sunday, but most of it was drying time... Probably a total of 1.5-2 hrs of total working time (including removal and installation of moldings.<br><IMG SRC="http://static.flickr.com/73/203288609_571b851c49.jpg?v=0" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://static.flickr.com/70/203288611_b617715e3b.jpg?v=0" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://static.flickr.com/67/203288605_2e58ef9261.jpg?v=0" BORDER="0"><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by dugums at 9:06 PM 9-9-2006</i>
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Looks good Doug -- nice job!<p>BTW, thanks again for the fobs! My service writer tells me I need the code that came with them when new to reprogram but I haven't given up yet....and as your post showed I can always move the modules out of my switchblade keys.<p>Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (jackf)

Yup, you have to switch the boards... I purposely did that way to avoid having to buy new fobs, downloads and having to deal with the service dept....<p>Just do it! It probably took you longer to write that post than it would to do the mod..... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Dive in....<p>Let me know if you need anything else!
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Good job. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>I've been painting moldings for years
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (JRL)

Beauty! Be nice to know how they hold up. Nice job. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/cool.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (Steely)

Thanks!<p>I definitely prefer the look... I did not paint the top end of the bumper, I figured it would be better to leave that more durable... <p>Do you guys think it would look better if I painted that???<br><IMG SRC="http://static.flickr.com/62/203288606_711e7251ea.jpg?v=0" BORDER="0"><p>I'm still undecided on whether I'll do the lower bumper and side sills....<p>
 

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Keep it black and "durable." I really like the look in the rear anyway!
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Bumper is going to be harder to do.<p>You will probably have to pull it off the car to do a proper job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (VolvoMax)

Don't have a problem with taking it off.... I just can't figure out if it would look better or not.... What do you think???
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

I like it the way it is. You did a great job!<p>Question- Are you in the autobody business or did you just have access to all the equipment?
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

Nice job! Looks good the way you've got it. Likelihood of getting bumped is greater on the ends; might be a consideration.<p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/cool.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (Wayne T5)

I used to do body work, but I don't see this being a problem for many people... I actually did not have access to the shop I thought I was going to and just ended up using a compressor and a pretty bad gun to shoot the clear...<p>The adhesion promoter and primer I had in spray cans (left over from another project) and the silver was factory aerosol... It's not the best way to do it, but I am very happy with the results... <p>Patience and prep are the key.... Don't rush anything... <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by dugums at 9:05 PM 9-9-2006</i>
 

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Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (dugums)

To do the b and c post to see if you will like it try black electrical tape or go to a vinyl sign guy and get some flat black or semi flat flat vinyl you coul\d leave the vinyl on
 

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Dugums, you never cease to amaze me <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Good job man.<p>If you dont mind, could you itemize and list the prices for this job? TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: Painting the moldings DIY questions (zzrguy)

JRL has pics of both the B and C pillars...<p>I had the B pillar done with a CF Vinyl, but that looked too ricey for me...<p>I'm thinking I'll do both the B and C a la JRL, but I am going to stripe it right at the window line... It looks like JRL has the some of the frame around the window done too, I want to keep the windows looking as small as possible..<p>I'm trying to sell my car to get an 04 T5M, but so far no takers... If the 04 gets sold, I'll keep going on this one and post pics...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (Copeland)

Cope-<p>4 cans adhesion promoter @ ~5.00 per can: 20.00.<p>5 cans flexible high build primer @ ~5.00 per can: 25.00<p>5 cans(small) of Volvo 426 silver @ ~7.00 per can: 35.00<br>(don't throw a fit when your volvo dealer quotes you, I got these from a friend at a discount... I think they are about 18.00 ea from Volvo. Go online and order from one of those factory paint matching companies, that give you more for the $)<p>Huge quantities of clear: 0.00 (body shop gave me free reign)<p>You should be able to pick up some relatively good clear in an aerosol for about 5.00 a can... I have had problems with the Volvo clear that comes with the Volvo aerosol, I don't recommend it...
 

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Thanks again Dugums. Could you enlighten me on the removal of the mouldings, how would one going about doing such a task safely?<p>
 
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