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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I see a lot of activity on forum lately, and a lot of questions were asked about the suspension.

I guess I'll go straight to the point this time and make it plane simple;
Powerflex on locations 1, 5, 6, 7 and 10, with the addition of XC series (extended life) bushing on FCA rear position. That is all you need to restore and exceed the performance of your suspension, assuming that your dampers are not leaking and your upper spring seats are not worn out.

Now, if you want to go beyond that, you can add sway bar(s), lowering springs, change the dampers...

It really has no sense at all to change anything before sorting these bushings first.
Your car is supported of the ground (apart from tires) on springs, and these are dampened with our fancy electric dampers.
The overall balance from left to right is controlled by sways and all of the above components are suspended on crappy bushings.

If you are experiencing problems with the suspension, do yourself a favor and check the suspension components;
- lift the car on a jack, get the tires off and inspect if there is a leak on your dampers.
Here is a picture of a damper which started leaking, but it will do just fine for some time.


- inspect the upper spring seats. Here is the completely failed right side one, and the left side showing sign of cracks too.







By now you should know if you are going to replace the dampers or not. It is never a waist of money to replace the upper spring seats, even if you are in doubt. These are very cheap components and require a lot of work to be replaced, just do it, you won't regret.

We came to a point where you need to ask yourself; stiff and sporty, or OEM but better ride quality.
If you want to retain the OEM comfort, but have a proper handling car, then you do not do not need sway bar(s). On the other hand, if you want to get the car to a whole new level, then you should already have a set of sway bars & (and maybe) lowering springs ordered.

Now the tricky part, the very important bushing positions on the car; 1, 5, 6, 7 and 10. With the addition to FCA rear bushing.
For easier reference, I'll use Powerflex scheme;

Position 1 - controls the direction where your wheel is pointing. Must have a poly! It is a bit tricky to get the old rubber parts out cause you need to reuse the metal components. I got the Superflex from ViVA to get the installation time to minimum.

Position 5; that is a very important bushing. The OEM one is made to allow the rear geometry to have the ability to make the toe in effect when the car dives in on heavy braking. You do not want that sh1t. You want to have your rear end to be predictable, and to follow your front. It is very hard to get these OEM bushings out. If you are working under the car which is on a jack, be extremely careful, and try to use pulley and not the impact force.

Picture is showing the OEM part



And the powerflex mounted on



Position 6; powerflex has a very good bushing which goes here. It needs a little bit of trimming to get the tailing arm back on it, but it is all straight forward.

Position 7; If lowering springs, then iPd rear chamber adjustment bushing. If not, then powerflex.

Position 10; very important. This one is simply pushed in to the OEM one and it helps in reducing the play on upper control arm.

Following positions are not making such an improvement. These require a lot more work to be replaced, and IMHO it is not improving the overall performance.

Position 8; very hard to get the OEM bushing out. You need to get the wheel hub off, then to remove the rotor splash protection plate, and only then you are
having enough room to work.
The OEM bushing is stiff enough so leave it in place. (the same goes for location 9.)

Position 4 & 9; these are exactly the same bushings. No need to replace, the OEM rubber ones are stiff enough.

Position 2 & 3; keeps the rear sub frame on the chassis. IMHO, you do not need to waist time and money on that bushing position.

After installing these components, you need to get a car on the road, ans make a short drive over some bumpy surface to allow the bushings to sit in place before wheel alignment.
Guess couple of miles would be OK.

All components, including extended life OEM parts, are available from George @ ViVA performance. Here by I wish to thank him for the service he provides.
 

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Great write up! Thanks!! I want to do this in the next year or so
 

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Awesome write up, thanks dude!
 

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Nice write-up. Are these positions in reference to the Volvo suspension diagrams?
 

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Thanks bud! Have to do these before mother nature starts dropping snow on me!
 

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Thanks for the great info, but I'd like to add a correction.
The Ipd rear camber correction bushings fit in position #6 rather than position #7 mentioned above.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You are welcome guys.
With out this foRum I'd never be able to got all the knowledge about this caR.
Funny thing is, I fell a sleep yesterday and never added the Powerflex link. Thanks George.

Szumek, thanks for the info. I always taught it was for the other position... Anyway, the Powerflex one for the position #6 is very good part. It is made of very stiff plastic and Í'll try o keep it in & get the position #7 in offset.
 

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Are you saying bushings 1, 5, 6, 7, and 10 are relatively easy to replace if DIY?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, depends.
To do 1 ( and the rear FCA OEM extended life) you need to get the wheel off, undo the brakes, driveshaft, dumper, wheel hub ball joint and three bolts holding the FCA in place. It isn't easy as chieseburger & fries, but you can do it. The way I planed it was once and for all. So while there, I did spring seat, ball joint, bushings... you get the point. The front part is a DIY possible.

To do 5, 6 and 7you would need to get the control arms down. Unfortunatley the parts are not on the arms, but on a subframe or on the wheel hub. and these are not easy. You might need a hydraulic tool, like enerpack or similar to do the job.

I would suggest you to get all the parts you need and go to your buddy who owns a shop... Or make a deal with a shop owner, that's what I sid. We both worked entire day (9hrs) to get everything done. But, now when I look back, I would not doo all, but only the "ïmportant" ones.
 

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I'm planning to replace the bushing number 5. My plan is the unscrew the bolt and after that destroy the rubber with a drill. Once the rubber and the center of the bushing is out I will have a saw or some dremmel tool to do the work with the outer ring of the bushing to get it out. Once its all out its pretty straight forward to mount the Powerflex and you are all done?

For sure it will take some time and effort but I dont have to take down the subframe and work with hydralic?
 

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Add to favorites, Check. Nice write up man.
 

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Bushings

Hi.

Great thread btw!!

So to confirm, these bushings that you list 5,6,7,10.....all fit a V70R 2004?

Only asking because the powerflex picture is for a 2002 awd, not an R awd. Are the rear suspension the same?

If so, i will order the bushes and crack on. Thankyou.
 

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Hey George, would it be possible to do a Complete Rear bushings kit bundled with the total cost? It would be cool to give several packages (ie; common failure points on the R, all lower toe bushings and camber, complete overhaul etc).

I've been to this thread numerous times and i can't help but say that buying and figuring out which bushings I need as well as how much I need to put aside has been very confusing. It would help us greatly!
 

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rough ride and hard thrashing on large bumps equals bushing replacement? Or spring seats? (in all modes).
 

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Hi.

Great thread btw!!

So to confirm, these bushings that you list 5,6,7,10.....all fit a V70R 2004?

Only asking because the powerflex picture is for a 2002 awd, not an R awd. Are the rear suspension the same?

If so, i will order the bushes and crack on. Thankyou.
Yes, the bushings available from Powerflex will fit your V70R AWD with no problem.

Hey George, would it be possible to do a Complete Rear bushings kit bundled with the total cost? It would be cool to give several packages (ie; common failure points on the R, all lower toe bushings and camber, complete overhaul etc).

I've been to this thread numerous times and i can't help but say that buying and figuring out which bushings I need as well as how much I need to put aside has been very confusing. It would help us greatly!
Yes! We have been meaning to do this for a while now, actually. If you're interested in a Polyurethane Bushing Kit, please contact me at [email protected].
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
****ing hate airport Internet :)
Wrote replay tree time and it was waisted...

Yes, these bushings will fit your caR, just as George says.

Please do change the important ones. That will make your ride so much more controlled. Fu€king go kart for that weight! :)

With all these mods, and two iPd sway bars my caR wants to skid sideways like a mad dog. *Don't get me wrong, it does not handle worse than before but way better, it is just more controllable and predictable so you can run it on that sweet edge of fun!

Can't wait to get that new engine in and get my 7670 under the hood. :)*
To have a project taking so long, uf that is sacrifice!
 

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Great write up, Thankyou Zeljko_M!!

I had my car into the garage yesterday to replace No's 5, 6, 7 and 10. I helped (where i could) so can provide extra information to help anyone wanting to do this.
I already replaced No 1 Bush (on the front) two years ago.
We attacked No 5 first as these are the hardest to get out. Used a pneumatic hacksaw to do most of the cutting then a large socket and threaded bar puller. Make sure you use high tensile steel bars as mild steel ones will bend easily and strip the thread.
Next was No 6 and 7. My IPD camber bushes were removed and the new powerflex BLACK bushes installed. A total of 4 bushes make up each side on position 6, so, 8 black bushes in total. Powerflex do not do this bush in purple, only black, as the bush needs to be very stiff. Make sure that the curved edge of the two center bushes oppose each other and that the outer two bushes, the flat edge sits in the correct position. It goes against the flat part of the lower arm to prevent the bush from rotating. Effectively, the inner bushes are allowed to rotate and the outers stay fixed.
No 7 was very easy (Fitting and removal). No 10 was even easier...just a little fiddly because you can't see the bush very well, however, because your fitting an insert (Purple) in this position, the bush does not have to be removed. Just grease up and slip her in! It only goes in one way and you must ensure the large washer provided is fitted the correct way.
We ran out of time so i did a quick road test to settle the bushes and than parked up. The lowering springs are coming off tomorrow so as you can imagine, the car had such a massive camber it was totally undriveable (safely) only to settle bushes.
When the OE springs are fitted and alignment is done then it will be good to see how she handles.
Allow a whole day guys to do this.
Top tip!!!
Remove the bolts for bush No 5 BEFORE you raise the car in the air, otherwise you'll have the weight of the rear suspension pulling on the trailing arm making it incredibly difficult to remove the bolts and risk of damaging the thread. They come out very easily.
The same goes for refitting....lower the car to the floor before sliding in the bolts. Leave the lower arms disconnected for the entire job as the lower arms need to be removed to fit No 7.
 

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Another way to deal with #5 and others that are out of line for bolt install is to use a ratcheting tie strap or a turnbuckle with a length of chain and bolt-nut-washers.

Recently I modded the lower control arm bushings to allow me to decrease the negative camber a bit. I had to fight with several of the bolts. I used the turnbuckle anchored to holes with a bolt, nut, and washer and then ran the chain through some place on the member that needed to be moved and then turn the turnbuckle to get it where the bolts can be installed. Maybe not for the poly bushings but for any OEM style bushings: Let the car rest at laden ride height before the bolts are tightened. The bushings should not be twisted at normal ride height. I have some chunks of 6 x 6 post I lower the wheels onto for the tightening and torquing of the fasteners through bushings.
 
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