'05 V50 T5 M66, '04 XC70, '98 V70 AWD, various junk from other brands
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Recently put the Whiteline anti-lift caster kit in my 05 V50, and there were a couple tips that can save you tons of time and headache on the install. Here’s a complete how to on installing the bushings.
Also, before you begin, if you have any other suspension work you want to do to your car I highly suggest doing it at the same time since everything will be apart.
What you’ll need once you get the car in the and the wheels off-
To start you’ll need to:
To remove the rear bushing, take out the two 18mm bolts that hold it in place. The upper nuts are captive and you won’t have to worry about holding them.
To remove the bolt for the front bushing on the right side, take out the two bolts for the AC line bracket and shimmy the 18mm bolt through the center. You can see those two bolts at the top of this picture, as well as the control arm bolt and the two AC lines in the center left and center of the image, respectively.
![Automotive tire Wood Tread Bumper Automotive exterior]()
It helps if you take the wheel liner off to get slightly better access, but it’s not necessary (if you want to, you’ll just need a T25 and 10mm socket. If your car is rustier, be careful - those T25 screws like to snap).
Then you can just take the control arm out.
Now comes the fun part: pressing out the old bushings. The rear one that gets replaced by the Whiteline kit usually wears first, and in severe cases (like mine) the rubber disintegrated and the outer shell of the bushing pressed out with basically no force.
Something of note here - there are two metal collars on each end under this outer shell. They are super soft, and you are better off using a Sawzall with a wood blade to cut this and the rubber off so you are left with just the center sleeve, which also needs to be removed.
To do this, use an angle grinder or hacksaw to cut away at this metal piece, which will relieve the tension and allow you to knock it off with a hammer and flathead screwdriver. I tried pressing it off in many different ways and this is about the only way that actually worked.
Then, you can put the new Whiteline bushing on if you aren’t replacing the front bushing. I did end up replacing this bushing, and you might as well too since it’s already apart, the bushing is cheap, and the factory bushing is soft and likely worn. I’ll link the parts at the bottom.
The front bushing will just press out with the bench press. If the middle rubber part comes out separately, leaving the steel sleeve in the control arm, you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it (make sure to not cut the arm, just the bearing sleeve) and hammer it out with a hammer and screwdriver.
The new bushing will press right in with a vice.
Installing the Whiteline bushing
The sides aren’t labeled, so make sure the writing is facing down when it’s installed, to drop the rear of the control arm down a little.
There are two pieces to the inner part of the bushing that fit together. Take the inner part out and slide it over the end dowel of the control arm, making sure to put one of the large washers on first. Then grease up the outside of this small polyurethane piece and insert it into the rest of the bushing. It should slide in without a whole lot of resistance.
Then, you can reinstall it into the car.
Re-installation into the car
Place the control arm back into the car. It should just slide in. You might have to wiggle it a little to get the front bushing to seat fully. Install the Whiteline busing first, with a washer on each end of the bolts. The hardware is all included (washers, 18mm bolt, 19mm nylon locking nut). To make it easier, install the front bolt with the nut at the top and the rear bolt with the nut at the bottom. Once you get it in, it should look like this:
![Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Wood Gas Motor vehicle]()
![Automotive tire Hood Tread Automotive exhaust Tire]()
![Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Tire Asphalt]()
Then, it’s time to install the front bushing bolt.
Do it on the left side first so you can get a feel for it before moving on to the tricker right side with the lines in the way.
To do this, you need to kick up the back side of the bushing in order for the bolt to go back into the original hole. To do this, I rigged up a (quite sketchy, but functional) system using a floor jack and a crow bar to push up on one side of the bushing.
![Musical instrument Line Electric blue Human leg Soil]()
![Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber Automotive design]()
Put your bolt in and start lightly hammering the end of the bolt to try to get it to seat as you slowly jack up the bushing. It will eventually tap right in and seat, and then you can snug it down with an 18mm ratchet or wrench.
Then your control arm is in, and you can put the rest of your suspension back together.
Hope this helped! I wrote this because I couldn’t find any info and was hoping I could help someone that got stuck like I did in spots.
Whiteline’s install instructions:
Whiteline kit - Control Arm Lower Inner Rear Bushing, Anti-Lift/Caster Correction, S40/V50, C30/C70
Front control arm bushings:
Also, before you begin, if you have any other suspension work you want to do to your car I highly suggest doing it at the same time since everything will be apart.
What you’ll need once you get the car in the and the wheels off-
- Ratchet
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 13mm socket (if removing strut too)
- 15mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- 21mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Ball joint press or hammer
- Hammer
- Flathead screwdriver
- Floor jack (you’ll see why later)
- Crow bar
- Small sledgehammer
- Sawzall (for taking apart mangled rear bushing)
To start you’ll need to:
- Remove the 14mm bolt holding the axle to the hub assembly.
- Remove the brake caliper using a 15mm socket and hang it safely off to the side, making sure you aren’t kinking or stressing the brake hose. Remove the rotor.
- Remove the 15mm nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle.
- Unplug the wheel speed sensor and move the wire out of the way.
- Remove the remove the single 18mm nut holding the strut to the knuckle.
- Use a sledgehammer to gently but firmly separate the two, taking care to not hit the exposed connector for the wheel speed sensor.
- Once they are separated, you can also slide the CV axle out of the hub to expose the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the 21mm ball joint nut and take the hub assembly/knuckle off the car. This may require using a ball joint separator or a hammer to separate. Be careful to not damage the boot or threads.
To remove the rear bushing, take out the two 18mm bolts that hold it in place. The upper nuts are captive and you won’t have to worry about holding them.
To remove the bolt for the front bushing on the right side, take out the two bolts for the AC line bracket and shimmy the 18mm bolt through the center. You can see those two bolts at the top of this picture, as well as the control arm bolt and the two AC lines in the center left and center of the image, respectively.
It helps if you take the wheel liner off to get slightly better access, but it’s not necessary (if you want to, you’ll just need a T25 and 10mm socket. If your car is rustier, be careful - those T25 screws like to snap).
Then you can just take the control arm out.
Now comes the fun part: pressing out the old bushings. The rear one that gets replaced by the Whiteline kit usually wears first, and in severe cases (like mine) the rubber disintegrated and the outer shell of the bushing pressed out with basically no force.
Something of note here - there are two metal collars on each end under this outer shell. They are super soft, and you are better off using a Sawzall with a wood blade to cut this and the rubber off so you are left with just the center sleeve, which also needs to be removed.
To do this, use an angle grinder or hacksaw to cut away at this metal piece, which will relieve the tension and allow you to knock it off with a hammer and flathead screwdriver. I tried pressing it off in many different ways and this is about the only way that actually worked.
Then, you can put the new Whiteline bushing on if you aren’t replacing the front bushing. I did end up replacing this bushing, and you might as well too since it’s already apart, the bushing is cheap, and the factory bushing is soft and likely worn. I’ll link the parts at the bottom.
The front bushing will just press out with the bench press. If the middle rubber part comes out separately, leaving the steel sleeve in the control arm, you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it (make sure to not cut the arm, just the bearing sleeve) and hammer it out with a hammer and screwdriver.
The new bushing will press right in with a vice.
Installing the Whiteline bushing
The sides aren’t labeled, so make sure the writing is facing down when it’s installed, to drop the rear of the control arm down a little.
There are two pieces to the inner part of the bushing that fit together. Take the inner part out and slide it over the end dowel of the control arm, making sure to put one of the large washers on first. Then grease up the outside of this small polyurethane piece and insert it into the rest of the bushing. It should slide in without a whole lot of resistance.
Then, you can reinstall it into the car.
Re-installation into the car
Place the control arm back into the car. It should just slide in. You might have to wiggle it a little to get the front bushing to seat fully. Install the Whiteline busing first, with a washer on each end of the bolts. The hardware is all included (washers, 18mm bolt, 19mm nylon locking nut). To make it easier, install the front bolt with the nut at the top and the rear bolt with the nut at the bottom. Once you get it in, it should look like this:
Then, it’s time to install the front bushing bolt.
Do it on the left side first so you can get a feel for it before moving on to the tricker right side with the lines in the way.
To do this, you need to kick up the back side of the bushing in order for the bolt to go back into the original hole. To do this, I rigged up a (quite sketchy, but functional) system using a floor jack and a crow bar to push up on one side of the bushing.
Put your bolt in and start lightly hammering the end of the bolt to try to get it to seat as you slowly jack up the bushing. It will eventually tap right in and seat, and then you can snug it down with an 18mm ratchet or wrench.
Then your control arm is in, and you can put the rest of your suspension back together.
Hope this helped! I wrote this because I couldn’t find any info and was hoping I could help someone that got stuck like I did in spots.
Whiteline’s install instructions:
Whiteline kit - Control Arm Lower Inner Rear Bushing, Anti-Lift/Caster Correction, S40/V50, C30/C70
Front control arm bushings:
Volvo Lower Control Arm Bushing Set - Powerflex PFF198011BLK
Volvo Lower Control Arm Bushing Set - Powerflex PFF198011BLK
www.fcpeuro.com
