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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey again,

Back again with some more upgrade/fix questions, this time regarding my suspension.

I've been doing a bunch of reading, and after having some tell-tale signs of my suspension wearing down (creaking, bottoming out-ish, swaying, slight vibrations when driving, etc) its time to upgrade.

Currently, Val the Volvo is sitting at 121k miles.

I have my "cart" ready, and just wanted to make sure I have all my bases covered, as this is the newest car I've had, and ride comfort is a definite plus for me, aside from the lowering.

* Elevate Lowering Springs
* Koni STR.T Front Struts
* KYB AGX rear shocks
* Moog mounts

Do I have my ducks in a row here?

I have most tools and lifts available to me, and if I end up needing a coil-tension-er (sp?) then I can rent one from my local Autozone.

Overall, just looking to make my V50 ride like new, lower her a bit, and get some noises/wiggling out.
 

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2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD
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I had a similar situation with my 2007 S40 AWD, and I think one thing you should consider is the condition of the rubber bushings throughout your suspension. I ended up replacing control arms and endlinks as well, and although I'm yet to officially replace my struts/springs, it made a WORLD of difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a similar situation with my 2007 S40 AWD, and I think one thing you should consider is the condition of the rubber bushings throughout your suspension. I ended up replacing control arms and endlinks as well, and although I'm yet to officially replace my struts/springs, it made a WORLD of difference.
Any chance you have a link to the control arms? I might just pick up the IPD endlinks as they've been in my radar since day 1. Cost?

Sorry, on mobile now.

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2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD
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Any chance you have a link to the control arms? I might just pick up the IPD endlinks as they've been in my radar since day 1. Cost?

Sorry, on mobile now.

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Give me a few hours and I'll let you know exactly what I used for the refresh. Gotta work!
 

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This was next on my to do list as well. I was planning on including LCA, end links, rear wheel bearings, struts/mounts/bearings, rear sway bar, etc. Basically a complete overhaul... I'm still up in the air which front struts I want to run but my friend gets a discount on Konis so I'll probably go that route also.

I was looking into bushings, too. I found a thread saying the Ford focus ST 2006 bushing kit (cant remember brand) would work as a substantially cheaper alternative. I think the entire kit was barely 200 dollars.

I did have a question about LCAs though. Volvo OEM and Meyle HD are basically the same price. (About 175 USD vs 180 USD for Meyle). The earlier p1s had smaller ball joints... the prices were about 10 bucks more for those i guess. I'm just looking for a comparison from experience honestly. If I'm swapping bushings anyways... would either really make a difference?

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If the last 6 of your vin are 209XXX or higher (I think that's the separation date - someone confirm) you have the larger knuckles and you can use the meyle HD's, if you don't then you have to go with the smaller ones.

I would personally get the Meyles HD's as they redesigned the bushing without hydraulic fluid and it is solid rubber - so it should last you significantly longer than even OEM LCAs.
I can't upgrade to them as the cost of knuckles and new bearings would turn my 180$ cost for arms up to about $500. The exact same amount of money I have had to spend gathering everything to do my wife's subie timing belt change, so I just went with some from the local autoparts store and am doing a polyurethane fill on their rear bushings.

As for rear suspension - I planned on slowly swapping out pieces as time goes on - buying 2 arms at a time cheaply from RockAuto and getting their bushings from powerflex and swapping them in at my leisure.
 

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Just saw this on Amazon. A pair of adjustable arms cheaper than most singles. Any input on these? 52 bucks a pair seems too good to be true when most of them are 80 a piece. I'm also seeing plenty of rear suspension kits on Amazon with camber arms, control arms, and trailing arms but I recall reading somewhere that our AWD rear trailing arms are different than the fwd p1/focus/Mazda 3 ones.


SCITOO 2pcs Suspension Kit 2 Rear Upper Control Arm Compatible fit 2013-2015 Ford C-Max Ford Escape 2000-2014 Ford Focus 2004-2014 Mazda 3 2006-2012 Mazda 5 2007-2013 Volvo C30 C70 2004-2011 Volvo S40 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG8SCWL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K5r9CbRJX0CVT

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XC70 2.5T, V50T5 AWD M6
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Just saw this on Amazon. A pair of adjustable arms cheaper than most singles. Any input on these? 52 bucks a pair seems too good to be true when most of them are 80 a piece.
$52/ea is less than a pair of decent spherical bearings cost so I'd consider this a major caveat. On the other hand, if the arms themselves are OK, you can use them until the bearings/bushings give up, and press in a pair of poly bushings and replace the spherical bearings with decent ones. Not necessarily a bad deal. You try first? :)
 

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The rear lower control arms are unique to the AWD and expensive- the bolts on mine are seized and I will have to replace hope to find a decent used set
 

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$52/ea is less than a pair of decent spherical bearings cost so I'd consider this a major caveat. On the other hand, if the arms themselves are OK, you can use them until the bearings/bushings give up, and press in a pair of poly bushings and replace the spherical bearings with decent ones. Not necessarily a bad deal. You try first? :)
I mean for the price of those, I can get the power flex bushings and adjustable arms for basically the same price of two single arms elsewhere. I'm concerned about the quality... that's why I asked if anyone saw theres before lol. I just don't want to go through the hassle of the install and then have one break months later. Redline has a pair for 110... I feel like that's a much safer purchase considering the 3 year warranty.
The rear lower control arms are unique to the AWD and expensive- the bolts on mine are seized and I will have to replace hope to find a decent used set
Ah. I was mistaking the upper with the lower.... yikes on the price for those lower arms! The kit I saw includes 1, 2, and 3 in the photo. Still the price on that Amazon special for both sides is only 160. Worth it? Or is this a recipe for disaster down the line?


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#1 is the control arm- for that price I would assume it to be the FWD one- those are pretty cheap
I thought so but those kept coming up when I searched for the AWD ones as well so it threw me off when you said they are pricey. Found the part number for the AWD arms. Thats pretty steep vs the fwd.

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I thought so but those kept coming up when I searched for the AWD ones as well so it threw me off when you said they are pricey. Found the part number for the AWD arms. Thats pretty steep vs the fwd.

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RockAuto has a set of #1, #2 and #3 from a reputable company for $220+shipping...not horrible IMO. and that's not even the cheapest. Oddly enough, VolvoPartsLisle doesn't give you a different number for AWD vs FWD - did they combine the two?
 

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RockAuto has a set of #1, #2 and #3 from a reputable company for $220+shipping...not horrible IMO. and that's not even the cheapest. Oddly enough, VolvoPartsLisle doesn't give you a different number for AWD vs FWD - did they combine the two?
It's listed in a different 'box' under the Suspension and Steering category on VolvoPartsLisle. Click on the 'Rear suspension Transmission: AW50/51...' box and you'll see the different listing for AWD.
 

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I referenced part number 30639917 and the cheapest I found was about 151 dollars. They range from that up to around 200 each though.

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Back to the LCA briefly....I've seen a few negative reviews about the Meyle ball joints. If they upgraded the bushing thays great, but wouldn't make a difference If you plan to upgrade the bushings anyways like I do. Can anyone confirm?

Also for your seized control arm bolts... inner or outer? Is this a common thing for the P1? I havent spent really any time under the back of the car so I guess I'm wondering If an angle grinder can sneak in there and cut straight through the bolt without hitting anything else. I try to be prepared for the worst when I do these types of things. Just wondering because I've heard terrible things about seized downpipe bolts for us, and mine cracked loose no trouble at all with a generous PB coating overnight.

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I just went through the seized rear control arm bolt situation (haven't returned to the downpipe bolt yet) and I can relate my experience tackling it. It seems to be a common issue for P1s in areas where salt is used on the road as I imagine it is in Buffalo. Both of my outer bolts and one of my inner bolts were seized to the inner bushing sleeve. I made multiple attempts at getting them out without resorting to cutting or grinding but nothing worked. I soaked them repeatedly in PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, acetone and tranny fluid, etc. but I don't think any of it penetrated into the space between the bolt and the sleeve. I tried an impact wrench, both loosening and tightening it, as well as a large hammer to try to shock it loose. I tried heating it. On one side I managed to get the bolt to unthread from the welded-on nut because the inner bushing sleeve separated from the rubber part of the bushing. This just caused the arm to expand slightly since the bolt was still stuck to the sleeve. The fortunate outcome was that it separated enough for me to get a reciprocating saw blade in between the control arm and the trailing arm and I was able to cut the bolt/sleeve quite easily using a Diablo metal blade. I was able to make each cut in about 5 minutes so I had the arm off in about 20 minutes.

I had already purchased a used AWD control arm off of ebay for about $35 and had re-bushed it with poly bushings so it was ready to be installed right away. I then re-bushed the arm I just removed and used it for the other side. When I attacked the other side I went straight to heating the bolt so I could easily separate the sleeve from the rubber to allow me to loosen the bolt from the welded-on nut. Unfortunately I cut one side off too close to the trailing arm so I didn't have enough bolt to grip to remove it the rest of the way from the nut so I had to resort to a cobalt drill and bolt extractor to do the final removal.
 

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Sounds like a blast... lol. I guess I'm fortunate to have a a work vehicle to use if needed. You lucked out pretty good with those awd arms. I saw some on Ebay that referenced the awd part number but are listed in their chart as 2.4 AWD. Delphi is the brand... probably not going to risk that one.

I was thinking of doing all the rear arms with shocks, then doing the front a month or so later, along with the springs to space out my expenses. My friend can do alignments in his driveway so I wasnt worried about having to get it done twice.

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Struts: big +1 for the Bilstein Touring strut in front. Oem is OK for the back. Please note my car is not lowered - can't speak to that.

DP bolts: You can get a straight shot in to one of them by removing driver's front wheel; it takes about 27" or so of socket extensions. I use a 6-point 1/4" drive socket for good fit and easier access. Remove the battery to get a good look at the other 2.

lca's from Advance or AutoZone have done OK.

686Sport
 

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So my original plan to do all control arms first was trounced by a cracked spring. Did shocks, struts, springs, and rear camber arms. Koni yellow fronts, KYB adjustables in the rear, eibach springs, and godspeed MS3 camber arms.

Aside from my strut spacer threads stripping out on one of the bolt holes on the front, and hammering a 2x4 onto the front knuckles to free the struts for quite a while, my only difficulty was the rear LCA similar to yours. Impact was useless but I could move it back and forth with a breaker bar just a bit. Went with a liberal soaking overnight of PB, and in the morning the same. After work I alternated with a torch, then PB, then punch a few times. It still took a breaker bar nearly every step of the way to get out....but no broken bolts and no cutting. The dealership didnt have the bolts in stock, so I took some sand paper to it while the bolt was in a socket on my impact. Shaved off a tiny bit and threw some never seize on the slide portion of the bolt to get me by until I end up doing the control arms in a month or two.

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