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Any changes in handling by the spacers? I have some vague recollection that it's a no-no for the handling or just suspension geometry (I think "scrub radius"?) but I can't remember what the significance of that would be. I have to admit I like the stance thing a lot.
 

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Received my DiCE unit this weekend and quickly got to work poking around VIDA to determine what I could do inside the car.

Paid $67 for it shipped from Shenzen. It arrived in 12 days. Totally worth the cost.
Mind sharing where you get the DiCE unit? And how do I download the VIDA?
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
I don't really feel much of a negative difference, but then again I don't do any large amount of daily aggressive driving. I did notice a bit more slop between the 235/45 and the 225/40, but that was expected.
 

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I forget his screen name but theres a guy on the F/S threads that sells the VIDA & a matching laptop already installed if you don't have one ( like me my main laptop is a Mac )

on the tire issue. you could have bumped up to a 245/40/18 I've been running that size for 5 yrs with no issues , no rubbing. I like corners lol & auto-x it a lot
thanks for the review on the general's I debated on them. but went back with the AS3's...
 

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I forget his screen name but theres a guy on the F/S threads that sells the VIDA & a matching laptop already installed if you don't have one ( like me my main laptop is a Mac )

on the tire issue. you could have bumped up to a 245/40/18 I've been running that size for 5 yrs with no issues , no rubbing. I like corners lol & auto-x it a lot
thanks for the review on the general's I debated on them. but went back with the AS3's I had the
That will be great... the VIDA & a matching laptop.
 

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A few weeks ago, I bought spacers for the front wheels (even though I didn't initially think that I needed them). Hearing the recommendations here for 10 mm spacers, I purchased the Eibach 10 mm's from Viva. Again, the set came with the correct bolts.

The car looks much, much better now! Given the combination of both the 10 and 15 mm spacer sets, and the 235/45R18's the wheel wheels are better filled and the car has just enough wheel poking out.
What length bolts did you get with the 10MM front spacers? Viva says it comes with 15MM extended bolts but I would think to keep a matching size you would want them only 10MM extended?
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
What length bolts did you get with the 10MM front spacers? Viva says it comes with 15MM extended bolts but I would think to keep a matching size you would want them only 10MM extended?
I'm not totally sure if they were 15 mm extended or not. I didn't compare them with the previous set I received when I bought the 15 mm spacers. That being said, I have not had any issues with threading them through the hub with the 10 mm spacer, although I had some initial difficulty due to the amount of rust in the threads past the hub point where the original bolts mounted into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 · (Edited)
After all the other mods, I finally came back to the mod that most everyone else seems to do first: the IPD rear sway bar.



Of course, now I wish I would have done this sooner...:facepalm: The car is a different animal in turns. I didn't get out to push it hard on some of the DE/PA back roads, but the ability to twist the car was readily apparent. The front just goes where you put it and the rear is happy to play, almost to the point of being a little tail happy. I couldn't believe I was feeling this out of the S60, and would have sworn I was back in my Subaru if you blindfolded me. :D

Initially, I tried to do the install on ramps. I read the posts from synesis and young satchel, and how hard it was to get the integrated nuts off, but they seemed to get it done, so I figured why not?



Big mistake. The nuts are impossible to get off in their location when the suspension is loaded. I mean seriously difficult. I had several different socket wrenches, open ratcheting wrenches, and it was still a pain in the :mad:.

I ended up trying to loosen the right nut for about 10 minutes, which got me about 1 mm or two into the threads... then just packed it up and drove back to my house (a block away, didn't even bother re-tightening the integrated nut) to get my jack and stands.

Once I got back and put the car up on jack stands, the end nuts were right where they needed to be. Of course.



Total install took about 30 min and was pretty mindless.





I definitely recommend the bar to anyone as a first or second mod to the car, before anything else, or you know... a year later after you've done thousands in other things first. :thumbup:;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Also, had another UOA done at my last oil change. This run was for 8,344 miles (I was travelling here and there and couldn't get to the shop to change the oil) so I went over a few.

Still though, stellar numbers for wear. Again though, the "issue" of low viscosity appeared again, just like the last run. Not sure why the oil seems to be shearing down. I might have to run a shorter interval (5000 miles) and see where the viscosity goes, or figure out another oil to try.

The only other things to note is the good filtration. From the first report to second, I changed to the K&N intake filter vs. the OEM filter. It appears, at least in my driving routine and environment, that there is no difference in ingestion of silicon or presence of insolubles. YMMV.

 

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Your DIYs have been impressive and this thread since you bought your car is such an excellent example to the potential of these S60s.

My first mod is going to be the Aluminum skid plate and the next will be the IPD Rear sway bar. Nice to hear how much more confidence the car has on twisty roads.

Great work man !
 

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15mm Spacer with 45 section tires

Watch out with 45 section tires. When I drive aggressively in corners, my 45 section Nokians rub the fender liner with the 15mm spacers installed. They just barely touch enough to chew it up at the very top of the wheel arch. They might not with the IPD anti-roll bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Your DIYs have been impressive and this thread since you bought your car is such an excellent example to the potential of these S60s.

My first mod is going to be the Aluminum skid plate and the next will be the IPD Rear sway bar. Nice to hear how much more confidence the car has on twisty roads.

Great work man !
Thanks! Figured with all my tinkering, I'd share and add to the knowledge on here (which has helped me out a lot myself along the way).

Watch out with 45 section tires. When I drive aggressively in corners, my 45 section Nokians rub the fender liner with the 15mm spacers installed. They just barely touch enough to chew it up at the very top of the wheel arch. They might not with the IPD anti-roll bar.
Good call. I've already noticed prior to the bar install that there was some chew-up happening on the plastic fender liner. Wasn't enough to concern me, but it is interesting that with all the space in the suspension height, how much the rebound travel actually is on the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Cars and Coffee meetup in NJ this past weekend! Lots of exotics, Corvettes, Camaros, and Hellcats, but only three Volvos...:thumbdown: Still a lot of fun though.



Paparazzi'd by the event photographer with his "real" camera.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 · (Edited)
Made a change on the audio front that has improved my system dramatically.

As a recap, I had installed an amp in the subfloor of the trunk to drive a 10" subwoofer and tapped into the OEM wiring harness on the outboard side of the amplifier.

Initially, I had tried sending my speaker level signal through this LC1 (as my amp could accept speaker level through RCA), however, the LC1 had issues and would short one side of the amp if I tried using it.



I then switched over the the Scosche LOC2SL, which worked fine and wouldn't overload my OEM amp.



Both L and R channels went through fine and all was well and good with it... However, the gain knob included (which I had mounted under the steering column) only really worked until about 1/2 way, so the gain adjustment was limited. Also, the box "claimed" 4V line level signal. At 3/4 head unit volume and a 40 Hz 0 dBFS tone, I could only manage ~0.9V out to the amp. My gain level on the Kenwood amp was sent to 0.3-max V since the input line level signal was so low... Also, the box was tight under the seat and managed to find ways to snag when moving the passenger seat forward and backward.

I finally said "to hell with this" and went with a proper line output converter: AudioControl LC2i.



I cleaned up the wiring underneath the seat and simplified things to needing only the 12V turn on (and power) wire to the LOC + the two channel speaker wiring.



Out back, I connected the LC2i with the 12V remote in and 12V power bridged from the single wire coming from the 12V switched power in the cupholder. I routed the ground into the RDAR ground (the Sirius unit under the seat). The LC2i has a remote out on the harness, and I used that to remote on my Kenwood amp.

After connecting everything, I sent my headunit to 3/4 volume and set the gain on the LC2i to where it says it's "maximized" (the little light on the unit turns yellow to tell you) and then backed it off to set it. This apparently was an output of over 5V line level at less than 1/2 the gain on the unit. :thumbup:



The LC2i would make my amp output full RMS power at the lowest gain setting and a 0 dBFS tone. Wow.

However, we know music isn't all set at 0 dBFS, so I set the gain using a 40 Hz -10 dBFS tone and my DMM until the voltage read right for the maximum power for the amp at 4 ohms (~200W). This turned out to be right around 2V gain setting on the Kenwood. Much better than 0.3V.



I had bought the accessory remote bass knob (ACR 1) and wired it at the same place underneath the steering column as the other Scosche gain knob. I had the knob at full turn (0 dB) while setting the gains.

With the gains set, I played around with the EQ and the subwoofer crossover. I ended settling on 60 Hz -8, 200 Hz + 2, all others flat, Surround Off, and a 120 Hz crossover on the amp. I know this sounds kind of high for a subwoofer, but trust me, it blends in really well.

And boy does it hit, much, much harder than it did before. Now it feels like there's a subwoofer back there! :eek:

I do wish I had better control over the high pass on the front components, and am still thinking about employing some passive crossovers (2nd order) to attenuate LFE to the front 6.5"s. However, I think at this point, I am pretty pleased with where the system is at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
A small repair to detail for you all: Replacing the Evaporative Emissions Leak Detection Pump. I searched on Swedespeed and on the rest of the Volvo sites and did not see anything much to help guide in this, so this might hopefully be of help to someone else in the future.

I had gotten a CEL, which happens here and there and generally is a gremlin so I checked the code with my OBDLink and then cleared it. This time it did come back a few days later with the same code... so I checked it out in detail.





It was for P2402 code. All signs indicated online that it was either a problem with the pump itself or remedied through retightening of the gas filler cap. I tried the gas filler cap initially as a quick test, but that didn't resolve the problem. I then tried to run the fuel leak test in VIDA to see if I could get a sense of what was occurring, but the test would not initiate because the car could not run the leak detection pump. I figured that was a tell that the pump was the culprit.

I ordered a new pump from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7VWR4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This Bosch pump is the OE equivalent to Volvo part #31392490 (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...Cr24SQYfwj_NkJCut_-TpOsMduR92IcxoClM8QAvD_BwE). However, it does not include the hoses. I visually inspected the hoses on the ends I could see and saw that the hoses were intact with no rot, so I went with the pump only option (as it was also 1/2 the price).



The pump itself is located directly to the right of the rear differential on top of a part of the rear subframe. I rolled the car on the ramps and initially tried to see if I could pull the pump out, but after unscrewing it, I couldn't get it to clear the stamped metal on the right. Plus, the hoses were not letting me pull it out far enough, even if I could get it to clear the metal.



I checked within VIDA to see what was required, and it has the procedure for installing the pump, with part of the process being lowering of the rear subframe by about an inch... :facepalm: So I gathered my items and went to the local MWR auto crafts to tackle the install.





A nice surprise in the bay across from me (XC90 V8).



Anyways, back to the install. After jacking up the car on the lift, I did see that there was a space behind the pump that I could possibly pull the pump through instead of trying to force it out the way I initially tried while I was on my ramps.

So, the good news. I found out I could indeed get the pump out without lowering the subframe... however, when I looked at the hoses, I saw they were held on by stupid Oetiker clamps. :mad:



After a quick drive to the nearby Advance Auto to get some hose clamps, I came back and the process went very smoothly. I used a screwdriver to pry off the top right Oetiker clamp, and then was able to pull the pump out of the cavity to work the other clamp off. Afterward, it was a quick re-install of the hoses with new screw clamps and then screwing the new pump onto the bracket.







When I got back home, I fired up VIDA and looked to see if the problems had cleared in the diagnostics tab. Indeed, there were no pending errors in the Diagnostics tab. When I fired up the fuel leak test, everything went fine and a got an all clear, with no leaks. :thumbup:



Glad this one worked out relatively easy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Due to the location of the oil filter, I had been wanting to try out an oil extractor, as it makes life really easy for me for a curbside oil change (again, first world no driveway problems...).

I ended up getting the Topsider extractor, due to its metal construction and 8 L capacity. I bought the extractor for about $50 on Amazon, and bought the requisite 36 mm socket for the oil filter cap. Picked up some Castrol Edge (A5/B5 certified of course) and a Mann filter. All of this came out the price of an oil change at the local dealer, so it has already paid for itself :thumbup:



I'm not going to go through and describe the oil change process, as it has already been beaten to death here, but I did want to add that I found this location in the bay as the most accessible for removing, and replacing, both the oil cap and filter together as one unit.



The extractor worked great, and took all of about 15 minutes. I pulled the valve to release the vacuum and then went on to getting the filter removed and reinstalled while the oil drained.



Definitely am going to be using this Topsider a lot more often now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
While it wasn't always my intention to fully change this car over to an R-Design clone, this past year has gotten me to the point where I've replaced all but the front end of the car to match the R-Design (rear valence, spoiler, mirrors, Polestar tune, pedals). I don't particularly see myself paying the $1000 to replace the bumper and associated bits of the front end (at least it isn't in my plans, although I do wish it), I did want the grille, since it was gloss black and looks better than the Iron Stone colored grill that comes on the T6. This is especially true with the Vibrant Copper, it just doesn't seem to match well.

R-Design parts on the used market are typically pretty hard to come by, but I was finally able to find a grille here from a fellow forum member (thanks Brian!).



Installation didn't take very long, but like with the rear valence, the clips on the grille are tough to get to budge! I worked with a plastic scraper to try to push in some of the top edge clips enough, and when those broke free, I worked around the top to the sides, pulling and prying with the tool at the clips until it came mostly out. I managed to only break one clip at the bottom. Not too bad.



Here's a comparison shot of the two. Not too different, but the color really makes all the difference on the car.



The satin trim matches the satin trim on the side windows and the R-Design satin mirror covers well, and the black makes the Iron Cross stand out much better than the gray color did. A subtle, but surprising improvement.

 

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Nice work p.rico. New grill looks great!
Now the frame around the non-existent fog lights, it that chrome or satin?

Sent from my ASUS_Z017DA using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
Nice work p.rico. New grill looks great!
Now the frame around the non-existent fog lights, it that chrome or satin?

Sent from my ASUS_Z017DA using Tapatalk
Those unfortunately are glossy and not satin.
 
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