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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
850 Turbo Overheating

Hello-

I have a '95 850 Turbo that is overheating. Original diagnosis was a cracked radiator which I replaced this weekend along with thermostat and hoses.

Car now overheats after 10 minutes of driving. This is made worse by turning the A/C on. Same condition even with thermostat removed.

I have a little temperature measuring device I can point and shoot at surfaces to determine temperatures. When dash gauge is at 3 O'Clock position and I point it at the thermostat housing I am reading about 190 degrees F. If I drive until the gauge read almost to the red I shoot the temperature of the housing up in the 220 degrees F range so I think that my ECT is working properly. My fan also kicks on as necessary and I have heard it cycle thru both fan speeds.

Only place that I can determine that I lose any coolant when the temperature goes above 190 degerees is out thru the cap on the overflow tank. I replaced the cap this weekend and still had leak at cap. I guess this is OK because if it overheats it has to vent somewhere.

I am thinking water pump but I am skeptical for two reasons:

1. I have never had a water pump go bad that did not leak

2. The timing belt drives the water pump so it has to be functioning for the car to run. With that said the shaft driving the impeller has to be turning. Either the shaft (or impeller) is slipping or the impeller blades have lost their efficiency. All of which are possible problems but probable?!

Any thoughts comments or similar experiences?

Thanks-
Sean

Modified by MACHDRIVER at 11:19 AM 8-14-2006

Modified by MACHDRIVER at 11:19 AM 8-15-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: 850 Turbo Overheating (MACHDRIVER)

Took off top radiator hose and started engine, when I revved engine coolant flow increased indicating water pump is working.

Still overheated once I hooked everything back up and test drove!

Can anyone tell me what is going on after coolant leaves thru the bottom of the overflow tank? Does it go to the heater core?

I am at a dead end

Thanks-
Sean
 

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Re: 850 Turbo Overheating (MACHDRIVER)

Sounds like it got too hot and you have a leaking (cracked) head gasket.
Do NOT let this go and continue to drive hot or you will lose the head. (BIG $$)
 

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I'm thinking blown head gasket as well, are you sure you have no coolant leak of any kind?
You might want to pressure test your system if you have the tools to do that to see if it only leaks under high pressures (17 psi).
You could also pull the spark plugs out and look inside the cylinder for coolant, thats a perfect indication that you have a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the responses

I will see if I can get it to a shop for a pressure test tomorrow.

As far as no leaks, it seems to not leak. I work 5 miles from home and got there this morning with no overheating. I let the car cool down and coolant level was within range on the overflow tank.

Coolant seems clear (not cloudy) and oil is definitely black, still could be a head gasket?
 

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Re: 850 Turbo Overheating (MACHDRIVER)

What kind of replacement radiator did you use, new, a reco one or a 2nd hand one, if it's 2nd hand or reco and been sitting around on the shelf for a while the insides can flake off and block it up, did you give it a good flush out before using it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It was a new EBAY radiator.

I am starting to agree with other contributors on blown head gasket theory unfortuneately even though I only have one indicator (item 6 below)

1. No oil in Coolant (apparently)
2. No coolant in oil (apparently)
3. No leaks under car
4. No white smoke from tailpipe
5. Pulled Spark Plugs and they are (apparently)
6. lastly, and here is the killer I think. Bubbling and HEAVY fuel smell from coolant in overflow tank!

I am working on getting car over to a shop for pressure test

Modified by MACHDRIVER at 11:55 AM 8-15-2006

Modified by MACHDRIVER at 12:12 PM 8-15-2006
 

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You can check to see if there is a blown head gasket by doing a compression test or listning for a bubbling in your cooling system.

These new cooling systems are closed so you will not hear any boiling or bubbling noises. Those sounds will let you know of issues in your cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (DVolvoguy777)

Thanks for your input but I am a little confused by your advice.

Are you suggesting that trying to listen for bubbles will not work and I should just do the compression test?

PS-love to see a pic of the Stinson, I am an aviation buff and a good friend of mine has a 1/5 scale L-5 (remote control)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now I think I am really screwed (that is a technical term!)

I now have a massive oil leak from the rear main seal that is new.

Still haven't done the compression test. I am going to park the car now and wait until I buy a compression test tool.

I only purchased this car a few weeks ago and guess I am still in the discovery stage!
It has basically sat for the last 4 years (maybe 1000 miles a year since 2000).
 

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Re: (MACHDRIVER)

Quote, originally posted by MACHDRIVER »
stage!
It has basically sat for the last 4 years (maybe 1000 miles a year since 2000).
About the worst thing for ANY car
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (JRL)

I should have know better than to buy a car that was sitting but it was a one owner well maintained car owned by my boss. I knew it had a cooling problem and was going to have to spend some time underneath it! I didn't think I would maybe have to rip the head off and also replace the main seal, but oh well! Part of the used car gamble I guess!

Alright, I don't think it is the main seal leaking oil now. I thoroughly cleaned the bottom of the car and then want for a short drive and parked it. After about an hour I had an oil leak. I got under the car and tried to determine source. It appears to be coming from higher up than the main seal as there is some oil on components above the subframe. It looks like I may be leaking oil from the turbo oil line.

I am going to do some research and see what i can figure out, any thoughts or similar experiences from anyone?

Thanks-
Sean
 

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Re: (MACHDRIVER)

turbo return line is a common leak area, not a big deal and very common
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (JRL)

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I am going to tighten that up tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed.

Then back to my cooling problem...

Modified by MACHDRIVER at 8:57 PM 8-16-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
3 updates for tonight-

1. Got a Compression Test kit today and was hovering around 130PSI per cylinder in all 5 cylinders. I am hoping that this confirms that my head gasket, head and block have not been compromised.

2. Drove around after confirming this for about 15 minutes and temperature guage did not raise above 3 O'clock position, After my drive the overflow tank was hissing with pressure even though temperature was reading OK. This is a new cap I bought last week, it is a STANT cap from and Auto parts store but is identical to the green OEM cap (at least in appearance)

I am thinking I should try to replace the water pump next (and timing belt, of course) as I am not sure I am getting good circulation. I tried most of the tests I have read about and each one has failed.
A. can't feel surge of water if I hold upper hose for a few seconds while it should be circulating
B. overflow tank level seems to never go down only raise with pressure

Question - Should I hear this hissing from the cap? Also had some coolant collecting aroung the threads of the cap. Is this normal?

3. Engine has an undetermined oil leak. I had misidentified the oil return line for the turbo. I now know what the oil return line is after researching last night. The oil leak pattern seems like a textbook version of the oil return line leak I have been reading about althought the metal line itself seems bone dry as well as the flange/gasket that goes into the turbo. I cannot get a good view into where the "suspect" O-ring is on the block without a small mirror. I will get a mirror this weekend to see if I can see in there. The leak pattern is running along the seals (intermediate block to head & intermediate block to oil pan) as well as gather at each of the bolts on the oil pan.

The line going into the turbo that looked wet with oil to me last night is a rubber line with a brass (orange-ish) NPT fitting going into the driver's side of the turbo. I tried tightening up this brass fitting and was only able to safely tighten a few degrees (felt plenty tight)

Any feedback is appreciated
Thanks-
Sean
 

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Not sure about your other issues, but the expansion tank hissing is a problem. You should hear absolutely no hissing. I'm thinking that the lip of the tank is cracked or no good. Therefore, the cap you got, no matter how tight you get it isn't going to hold the pressure. See if what I'm saying isn't right...either that or there's another problem with the sealing area of the tank. A new tank is fairly cheap from http://www.fcpgroton.com
 

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Re: (MACHDRIVER)

I got a new radiator installed a coupla months ago (and now need another for my other 855), but the service mgr cautioned me that every now and then there can be an air bubble in the system when a new radiator/new coolant is installed and it will cause overheating.
 
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