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TLDR? I ended up recording it:




Hey guys. I just overheated my engine yesterday. I was testing if my stage 3+ spec clutch was still holding and was basically WOT on the highway at night. Temps were hot(85degrees) as I am in south Georgia. I was also checking where this weird whining noise was coming from in my dash when in 5th and 6th gear.
So I didn't pay enough attention to my engine temperature gauge. I even missed the "low coolant please stop safely" message. Engine climbed to the red on the gauge for at least a few minutes. Didn't know anything was wrong at first doing pulls on the highway. Then all of a sudden my A/c stopped blowing cold air.
I look around my car and see that im in the red and oil pressure at 10PSI at highwayspeeds!!(usually at 21-30 at 750RPM idle) I panicked, checked for traffic, and pulled over immediately with the engine switched off. Eventually got the car towed home. Under the hood, the top left hose(when you are facing the engine from the front of the car) that connects to the radiator blew off. All this time i would like to add i have been suffering from a mysterious coolant loss from the previous owner so I have been playing Coolant roulette.

Most likely i believe this is what happened: Coolant reservoir was low from not checking it recently, Lost even more coolant during heavy driving, the car slowly overheats without me noticing, Coolant hose blows off losing all coolant, finally the Engine overheats.

So the first thing is first. Oil level was low and lost 2 quarts of oil during that night. I had to top it back up today.
The engine starts roughly after letting it sit overnight(Cracked cylinder liner?) but runs perfectly after a few seconds.
As far as driving there doesn't seem to be anything indicating anything wrong.

What tests should i do to test the engine?
I'm doing a compression test tomorrow.
Is that the only test i need to do? More specifically, is this the test that means everything is fine don't worry about it?

Should i try to buy a new R? I've thrown thousands of dollars (trying to fix it) well past what I have paid for the car.

Should I just Drive the dang thing?

Should I swap in a 2.4L motor? If yes which one from what years and what model? Should i go for a junkyard motor?
I see 2.4L turbo motors for S60, C70, S70, and many others on SWengines.




If you've made it this far thank you. I hope that I can drive this car or a 5 cylinder volvo again. I have just fallen in love with these 5 cylinders.

Please help me!
 

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It sounds to me the block is cracked. Overheating like that probably made it worse if not cracked another liner. Your best bet seeing you have all the time and money is this one just 2.4 swap like you planned and get it tuned. Plus with running on low oil and oil pressure you probably shaved some life from the bearings.


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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It sounds to me the block is cracked. Overheating like that probably made it worse if not cracked another liner. Your best bet seeing you have all the time and money is this one just 2.4 swap like you planned and get it tuned. Plus with running on low oil and oil pressure you probably shaved some life from the bearings.


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Dang sorry instead of ”ive thrown thousands of dollars well past what i have paid for the car” i meant to say “ive thrown thousands of dollars trying to fix various issues on the car more than what i bought it for.” Didnt want to leave an impression that i had a lot of money or time. I just really want this car to work so ive thrown thousands to fix it.

Id like to get it running if this block is toast anyways. I heard that stopleak stuff works wonders. You guys think i should try it?:p
 

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That's crazy...The big red ! on the dash is telling you to shut her down long before your oil pressure went to crap. So much could be wrong with the engine and only way to know is to pull it out and tear it down. I would venture to say you are in need of a heart transplant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
That's crazy...The big red ! on the dash is telling you to shut her down long before your oil pressure went to crap. So much could be wrong with the engine and only way to know is to pull it out and tear it down. I would venture to say you are in need of a heart transplant.
the red on the temp gauge or are you referring to the red triangle in the middle of the dash? Red triangle has nothing to do with the engine coolant, comes on due to my SRS codes.


Honestly the low coolant message comes on all the time for my car. I found that that its only because coolant in the reservoir is low. I usually have time to do the things i neeed before topping off the coolant.
 

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Uhh, the red triangle can 100% have something to do with the coolant...

On an 04, I think that triangle is always red no matter what. Later cars it's orange and then red based off of severity.

Your car is telling you to stop because you're low on coolant. Why would you keep driving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Uhh, the red triangle can 100% have something to do with the coolant...

On an 04, I think that triangle is always red no matter what. Later cars it's orange and then red based off of severity.

Your car is telling you to stop because you're low on coolant. Why would you keep driving?
I've had that red light come on for other reasons too nonrelated to the coolant and usually related to the SRS system.

But yeah i made it pretty clear to you guys I made a big mistake and wasn't careful. I need to move on though any helpful suggestions?
 

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A good used engine.

If it really overheated, the head could even be funky. So I'd say a whole replacement R engine and head.
 

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Aluminum block, doesn't hold up against overheating.

Spec pressure plates fail prematurely, don't buy their junk. Mine lasted 55k and they said that was a long, expected life. I didn't drive it hard and get 100k out of oem clutches.

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Uhh, the red triangle can 100% have something to do with the coolant...

On an 04, I think that triangle is always red no matter what. Later cars it's orange and then red based off of severity.

Your car is telling you to stop because you're low on coolant. Why would you keep driving?
Nope. It's red n orange 04. 05 it turns red for more things. There are also 2 stages to the coolant light-- stop safely and stop now...
 

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But yeah i made it pretty clear to you guys I made a big mistake and wasn't careful. I need to move on though any helpful suggestions?
Open up a credit card with a sign-up bonus after $5k and work OT for the next few months to pay for said CC bill?

If not willing to spend $2k+, part out car.

Also, perhaps look into a sensory disorder therapist who might explain to you why the f you’d ignore a giant red triangle warning sign in the middle of the dash...




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Yeah sounds like you mightve cracked a sleeve. This is why I always tell people to get Meth injection if they want to beat on the car in hot weather. Just buy a new motor and shim it to prevent it from happening again.
 

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Open up a credit card with a sign-up bonus after $5k and work OT for the next few months to pay for said CC bill?

If not willing to spend $2k+, part out car.

Also, perhaps look into a sensory disorder therapist who might explain to you why the f you’d ignore a giant red triangle warning sign in the middle of the dash...




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Okay to all the people who thinks red triangles are the end of the world. Here is a picture of my car today started at normal temperature with no coolant messages. I have seen this red triangle through the entire ownership of this vehicle. Yeah i am an idiot for missing the coolant message and rising temp gauge but leave the red triangle out of this.



Moral of the story if you are losing coolant then fix it. Or coolant roulette could definitely punish you in the future. Its all actually starting to fit together.
The person who sold me this car also claimed to have coolant loss issues, after he replaced the radiator for a hefty fee and pressure tested it he was probably still losing coolant but didn't disclose me this. I have concluded that i lose coolant due to extremely small cracks in the liner. It was a slow leak that i could manage by topping off the reservoir once a month. However, i noticed i lost even more coolant on the highway. My guess is that the heat from driving on the highway expanded the crack exacerbating the issue. There was no common symptoms of cracked liners like puffy white smoke or misfires at cold starts. The car ran and idled smoothly besides the chattering from the SMF.

Anyways if you guys see an R for sale and the guy mentions coolant loss, run the hell away unless you like replacing engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yeah sounds like you mightve cracked a sleeve. This is why I always tell people to get Meth injection if they want to beat on the car in hot weather. Just buy a new motor and shim it to prevent it from happening again.
I would like to swap the more bulletproof 2.4L engine in instead. Would any of you guys know what year car i should look for or the engine model number? Going to try checking it out tomorrow at junkyards and online. R head is awesome though and will be a sad loss. Unless is it possible to fit my R head on a 2.4 L?

Also going to try that stopleak stuff for the lels since why the hell not right?
 

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Yeah sounds like you mightve cracked a sleeve. This is why I always tell people to get Meth injection if they want to beat on the car in hot weather. Just buy a new motor and shim it to prevent it from happening again.
If he overheated these aren't going to prevent an occurrence in the future. The way you word this might give that false impression. Shimming won't do a thing to prevent the aluminum block from warping if overheated. Then you'll have a nearly impossible time getting the head gasket to seal. Resurfacing the block is unlikely as the cylinder sleeves will protrude. These blocks warp easily, as most aluminum blocks do. I'd imagine he didn't overheat from driving hard in hot weather. My car does fine in the desert during the summer. Must be a cooling system issue and your suggestions will never stand up to a repeat occurrence.

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Okay to all the people who thinks red triangles are the end of the world. Here is a picture of my car today started at normal temperature with no coolant messages. I have seen this red triangle through the entire ownership of this vehicle. Yeah i am an idiot for missing the coolant message and rising temp gauge but leave the red triangle out of this.



Moral of the story if you are losing coolant then fix it. Or coolant roulette could definitely punish you in the future. Its all actually starting to fit together.
The person who sold me this car also claimed to have coolant loss issues, after he replaced the radiator for a hefty fee and pressure tested it he was probably still losing coolant but didn't disclose me this. I have concluded that i lose coolant due to extremely small cracks in the liner. It was a slow leak that i could manage by topping off the reservoir once a month. However, i noticed i lost even more coolant on the highway. My guess is that the heat from driving on the highway expanded the crack exacerbating the issue. There was no common symptoms of cracked liners like puffy white smoke or misfires at cold starts. The car ran and idled smoothly besides the chattering from the SMF.

Anyways if you guys see an R for sale and the guy mentions coolant loss, run the hell away unless you like replacing engines.
If you're aware of a coolant loss AND overheat your car, then you might of got what you asked for. Definitely not the time to test out a clutch or drive spirited.

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I would like to swap the more bulletproof 2.4L engine in instead. Would any of you guys know what year car i should look for or the engine model number? Going to try checking it out tomorrow at junkyards and online. R head is awesome though and will be a sad loss. Unless is it possible to fit my R head on a 2.4 L?

Also going to try that stopleak stuff for the lels since why the hell not right?
I have a T5 short block, R head bolts right up. It's a straight forward swap. Search car-part.com.

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