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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess it had to happen at some point. Tonight my S70 overheated on the highway. My concern is that I damaged my engine some how. Here is what happened and maybe someone can shed some light on any possible damages.<p>I'm driving in 63F at around 85MPH when I notice that the temp. gauge is just below the first red bar. I immediately pulled off at an exit and shut down the car and opened the hood for 10 minutes. The engine fan continued to run even with the key out and there was a slight chemical smell but no steam. The coolant vessel was releasing small amounts of steam. An AutoZone employee was very nice and was biclying by stopped and opened the coolant over, which resulted in coolant dribbling out along with steam. Not a giant erruption, but enough to make a mess. At the end of the 10 minutes, I put the car into POS II and the gauge read normal. At 12AM in a scary place, a close friend and the Autozone employee told me to blast the heat, keep it under 2500 RPM and watch the gauge, and I should be able to make it back to my garage. I did and she is sitting in her parking spot. The way home the gauge read like it normally does. I left the hood open for about 15 minutes and heard air hissing from the coolant vessel. <p>For some history- 5 months ago when I was in the middle of a New England winter, my Temp would always be on the cold side, and during really cold weather, the car would never really warm up unless she was idle. Does it sound like the engine thermometer failed tonight? Since the engine never stalled, died, steamed, or put the needle in the red, do you think that I am safe from engine damage?<p>The next time I start her, we'll be going to the dealer...
 

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Re: Overheat (Cabot)

No, it sounds like your thermostat <B>failed 6 months ago</B> and you didn't take care of the problem then.<br>The only thing you can do is fill her up with coolant, replace the thermostat and hope for the best.<br>(Actually the best thing you should do is not waste money on the coolant now, tow it to a garage, replace the thermostat, THEN replace the coolant and hope for the best)
 

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Re: Overheat (Cabot)

Cabot,<p> I'm with JRL on T-stat replacement and on not to put coolant in now, dealer will drain it anyway. Make sure you turn the heat ON while driving to dealer.<br> Also... the A-Zone cyclist is an idiot, I'm sorry. Nobody should open the system while it's steaming hot. It's not only unsafe, but you also loosing coolant that was still under pressure in the system...<p>Cheers<br>Kirill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Overheat (Papa_Kirlo)

Thanks for your replies. I know I should have had it taken care of 6 months ago, but I the dealership in NY was not willing to give me a loaner, rental, or shuttle me to school (too young and too far) and since there was no overheat, I thought it was okay. Dumb I know. <br>I'm not going to use the car until I have an appointment, and the dealership is about 1.95 miles away. That will be a hot ride. <p>Is replacing the thermostat a time-intensive process?
 

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Re: Overheat (Cabot)

2 miles away?<br>Heck, you can drive it. Check the <B>(cold)</B> coolent level to make sure it's full.<br>Nothing should happen in 2 miles, it shouldn't even get to full operating temp if you <I>had</I> a working thermostat<br>Naturally, change all the coolent with new when doing the thermostat<br>Job's not all that long, hour or so
 

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Re: Overheat (JRL)

The one curious thing, if I'm reading this right, is that he had a t-stat that was stuck <I>open</I> in the winter, but now apparently exhibits the characteristics of one that is stuck closed.<p>Odd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Overheat (t5mmmm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>t5mmmm</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The one curious thing, if I'm reading this right, is that he had a t-stat that was stuck <I>open</I> in the winter, but now apparently exhibits the characteristics of one that is stuck closed.<p>Odd.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Exactly what I was thinking. It's very strange, but none the less annoying. Since it is only two miles, I'm glad that it sounds safe to drive that. I really dont' like tow trucks. I was tempted to call AAA last night. We all know too well how some Volvo dealers aren't exactly knowledgable when it comes to repairs. Do I have to make sure that they have flushed and replaced the coolant, or can I trust that they would do that regardless?
 

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I would spell out everything....you live within 2 miles...you must know this particular dealer's reputation, right?
 

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Re: Overheat (Cabot)

I think dealer will drain and replace the coolant. I beleive this is a part of procedure. At least on Toyota dealership, I was going to flash the coolant, but they offered me great deal on pump replacement (and I was need it) and the coolant flaash was incuded for free.
 

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Re: Overheat (Cabot)

It really is pretty easy to change the thermostat yourself. Just get the replacement thermostat and the right torx bit. The housing is on top of the motor and is generally pretty accessible.
 

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If you do it yourself, get a long torx bit...you can't use a rachet extender and adapter...just won't fit with the fuel rail/lines in the way. Also, watch out for the torx screws, they are soft and you can strip the top out very easily. If they are too hard to turn, use PB blaster on them and let them soak over night. I did mine myself and it wasn't hard at all. Thermostat (90degree) is sold at fcpgroton.com for a decent price. Comes with the needed thermostat gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you all for your help. I wanted to try this procedure myself, but I just don't have the time right now, sadly. I even have a Torx screw set, but it's still getting dusty. <p>As I was explaining the situation to the dealer, they bascially spelled it out for me. Upon inspection, they said that it looks like my coolant had not been changed in a long time. They said it was dirty and sludgy, which is annoying because 12k miles ago, the Volvo dealer back on the East Coast that told me in writing that my coolant had been flushed and changed, apparently did nothing more than top it up. This isn't the first time a fluid that was suppose to be changed, wasn't, and caused a problem. <p>Not only is the coolant filthy, the thermostat gone, an engine sensor malfuntion, but my AC has ceased to work. I never used it much anyway, so I would imagine it just needs to be recharged. Could the crappy coolant and engine sesors have damaged my AC too?
 

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I seriously doubt the coolant and/or sensor damaged the AC. They operate independently. Get what needs to get fixed first and then go from there. Trying a charge on the AC system is a good idea. I've charged mine 2 years in a row and it's fine. Winter seems to shrink seals and 0-rings, causing some gas loss.
 

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Re: (MadeInJapan)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>MadeInJapan</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Winter seems to shrink seals and 0-rings, causing some gas loss. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Which is why, if you have climate control, you should run the A/C all year long ...
 

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I tried to run it at least once a week but still I had some leakage. I was very happy when I hooked up the gauge and I still had pressure in the system....a clue to me to just recharge. That was 3 or so weeks ago, and still the system is holding the same charge and I have COLD air!
 
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