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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been looking for a replacement engine, and possibly a new transmission for my '66 122s, and I think I have found these items fairly close to my hometown. The seller deals in many old Swedish parts, for both Volvo and Saab. I understand that if I install a transmission with overdrive, I will need a driveshaft of a different length. The seller told me he just needed to know what length I needed for the driveshaft. I have never done this before, and I really have no idea. Does any one out there know the answer to this?

Thank you,

John
 

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The correct DS for the M41/OD setup is ~10" shorter than the length of the M40 DS.
It should measure ~18" depending on where you measure.

Automatic Amazon shaft is the correct length, as is the front shaft from any OD car, Amazon or 1800 , and I believe 140 as well.
We are talking about the front sections of the 2piece DS, the rear does not need to be fussed with...

I've got several more of them than I need...
 

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as is the front shaft from any OD car, Amazon or 1800 , and I believe 140 as well.
The problem with some front sections is the front flange, which has several variations (size, u-joint) and also the center bearing which has some different bearing diameters and carriers (metal with pins, rubber donut with lower strap, etc). Lengths are indeed usually the same.

It's also possible to shorten the existing driveshaft. Most good driveline shops can cut and weld them back together on a lathe.
 

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Had one shortened at a heavy duty truck place in Bemidji Mn.(used to be called Catco) cost around a hundred bucks.
With the logging and gravel industry those guys do a lot of drive shafts.

You'll need a longer speedometer cable although maybe you could reroute the stock one.
Also the wiring.

The top of the tranny will most likely come with the short shifter that sits back quite aways from the stock one.
The top from your old M40 bolts right on but you have to drill and tap for the 4th gear switch.

Otherwise it bolts right in. (mine did anyway)
 

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I tried to re-route the stock speedo cable and it was not long enough no matter what I tried. The OD speedometer cable is still available new from places like swedishtreasures.com and others.
 

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Loyd. Now I'm really glad Andrew let me know he had a cable still in the package when I first started my project.
Otherwise I would've tried the stock one. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the above replies. Yesterday the seller asked me this question: "Does your drive shaft center carrier mount with a large rubber donut or does it have two pins with 2 small 2" diameter rubber bushings?"

I really don't know, and I don't currently have the car at my house. Is this a fairly easy thing to determine? Will I need to put the car on a lift?
 

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If P120 ch-225049, or P130 ch-216949, or P220 ch-44599...They all use metal bearing retainer with pins.
Later ch #s use rubber donut and thinner smaller-OD bearing, same ID.
'66 probably later setup.

Any setup you get, except the rare larger flange/u-joint DS from FI car, will work with the parts you have from the front (flange/joint) of your unneeded long front shaft. Just have to be a bit clever with shims.
 

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I found a bearing that will allow a later model driveshaft to work with the older model carrier, the real issue is the bearing retaining nut. The older bearing has a wide inner race that prevents the later nut from working, and the threads are different so you can't use an earlier nut. A thinner bearing than stock does the trick.

See this post and the few before/after it for full detail: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...e-more-often&p=2236841&viewfull=1#post2236841
 

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I'm pretty sure a '66 has the metal carrier with pins setup, at least, both of mine did. I dimly remember '67's with the donut, 140's for sure. U-joints are larger in the shaft from B20-equipped cars, right?
 

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Lloyd, I solved it easier by just cutting off the unnecessary piece from the front of the later DS nut flush with the nut, which leaves it exactly the right length to use with the earlier carrier and bearing...
Or you can just use the earlier heavier nut, with the cork washer to keep the grease in place, as it may well thread on...Mine did.
With shims as necessary, no thinner bearing needed.

The following all use the SAME "smaller" u-joints (all 3) and same size flanges or yokes:
All 544/210, All Amazon, All 1800S '61-'69, Some 1800E '70-'73 (with same-as-earlier 1.75" DS Type 1140), All 140s '67-72, and, again, Some 140E '71-74 with the earlier 1.75" 1140 DS

Some 1800E and 140E from '70-74 with 2" DS, Type 1310, and 164, use the slightly larger u-joint, considered the "medium" size of the 3 common sizes used by Volvo from before '61 through the 740/940 series. 240s can have a mix of sizes...

Ch# is better way to be sure about center bearing than presumed year of manufacture.
Or on a lift.
 

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Yeah I didn't want to modify the nut, not knowing how rare it was, and on mine the threads were definitely not the same. 72 vs 66. Just different ways of skinning the same cat.
 

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I read your insights before I made this last OD conversion and happily bought the bearing you identified in preparation. It was only after staring at the pieces/parts for awhile that I realized I could get away without using it, and since my original SKF bearing still had probably 200K miles left in it, I reused it after the newer-nut surgery...

Now maybe you can tell me this...How the hell can someone make that new sealed bearing, very decent quality that it is, get it in my mailbox for less than $4.00 total, and make a living at it? Even in China. Even with eBay.
 

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Making extremely high volumes. It's pretty crazy what a million units will do to cost. The raw material isn't too expensive so if the assembly is fully automated cost drops like a rock. Plus they ship them by the container full on a boat so each one costs like 2 cents total shipping to the US warehouse. It has to be a popular size though, used in a lot of places. Back at my first job I remember selecting genuine Timken bearings out of the catalog and if you could find one that was used in a truck axle it'd be down under $5, where normal low volume ones were $25-$50.

My boss used to work in airbag manufacturing. Back when they were new airbags were $500 each. Now that they've been developed for decades, and some cars use the same one across all models (Ford trucks for example) he said the cheapest airbag assembly he ever built was $23 complete, as sold to the car company. That includes profit. Still cost $450 at the dealer though.

Kind of mind bending thinking about a million units of anything though, and amazing that we still haven't really dented the earth's supply of materials in a lot of cases.
 
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