SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to deal with stupid lug bolts all the time while taking the wheels on/off at the track just created more of a pain than anything else. Ordered these hardened studs/conical seat nuts from Bildon Motorsport back in January and just installed them tonight. Peace of cake install...anyone can do this. Used red loctite to secure installation.

Ordered from here...went with the 65mm which is similar to stock after they are installed. If you want to use spacers I'd recommend the 80mm or if you want to be real cool you can get the 90mm bullet nose. Quality is top notch.

http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,242 Posts
AWESOME idea. It would make using spacers MUCH, MUCH easier, as well as typical wheel removal when needed.

All you do is screw them in, throw in some locktite, and then they do not come out? Is there some sort of pin holding them in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (GiRaff3)

Put Locktite on threads that get threaded in, double-nut the other end, torque, then remove double-nut. I would let the Locktite sit overnight. Studs should not come out unless you double-nut them again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,242 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Put Locktite on threads that get threaded in, double-nut the other end, torque, then remove double-nut. I would let the Locktite sit overnight. Studs should not come out unless you double-nut them again.

I am really interested in this but do not have the time or facilities to do it for a while. Awesome find!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Trying to deal with stupid lug bolts all the time while taking the wheels on/off at the track just created more of a pain...
Isn't that the truth; I knew I'd get around to this sooner or later - thanks for the writeup and links!

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Put Locktite on...double-nut...torque...
What are these torqued to?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,303 Posts
Re: Out With Bolts In With Studs (JoshV70_)

I'm glad to see you're a member of the "Golden Brembo" club.


Do these really bottom out, i.e. require torquing? Personally, I'd use red Loctite (permanent) and just set them at the point that the threads fully engage the hub. Let the compound set up and done.

Tom.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Billc73

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No real torque spec necessary, just tighten hard enough.



You can see theres a blank section in the thread...just thread in until it stops at that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,303 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Check. And in fact, you can see that any significant torque is going to mess things up, it will either thread past that ridge and mess up the hub, or drive the stud into the knuckle!

Use red loctite and just snug it down. Maybe 10lb-ft. Loctite is a good idea too for keeping rust and salt out of the threads. It can always be removed with heat.

Tom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Race teams use air guns as well, so I do not see a problem at all.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Race teams use air guns as well, so I do not see a problem at all.
Typical studded hubs do not use studs which are threaded in though... I'm not saying I'd be worried but it's something to keep in mind. I wouldn't give this to a dealership without knowing that the tech will actually verify that none of the studs were backed out before reinstalling wheels.

Thank you for the link, I'm going with spacers this summer and definitely would like to do this as well. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They're not going anywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Race teams use air guns as well, so I do not see a problem at all.

Somehow, I don't think that most of the mechanics at dealership and tire shops would be qualified to work on a race team.

The airguns that they use are probably a bit *newer* and *more expensive* (read: Refined) than the typical air gun used at said shops... ya know, the air guns that RUIN PEGS on a regular basis...?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,303 Posts
Re: (AthruC)

With red Loctite holding them to the hubs, air tools are going to break the lug nuts away long before the stud moves. But, never underestimate the damage a trained factory technician can do with an air tool.

Tom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Re: (AthruC)

Quote, originally posted by AthruC »


Somehow, I don't think that most of the mechanics at dealership and tire shops would be qualified to work on a race team.

The airguns that they use are probably a bit *newer* and *more expensive* (read: Refined) than the typical air gun used at said shops... ya know, the air guns that RUIN PEGS on a regular basis...?

Pit guns are more expensive because they are called "Pit" guns. They are made by IR and are almost identical to the IR Thunder Gun. Nothing special like you'd think. They are modified to run slightly higher psi levels off the nitrogen they use. I've given my hand at some practice sessions using the pit guns and w/o much practice, I was still bad at it. You have to hold the gun trigger fully depressed while you move the gun clockwise starting at the 10 o'clock position. You have to hit each lug nut which is glued to the wheel and precisely hit one hit from the hammer to tighten the lug nut. Thats it, one hit of the hammer spinning 10-12K rpm all in under two ticks. Taking them off is pretty much he same except for the lug nuts flying off. It takes lots of practice. I would sometimes watch the young guys on Dale Jr's team practice and practice. They would do this for hours sometimes.

And the lug nuts they use are only used once so they don't worry about stretch of course they are never subjected to a constant hammering like I've seen some grease monkey's do.

And as for guys working in a dealer who are qualified to work on a race team, you have never been to any shops around the Charlotte, Concord, Moorseville area. I've worked with former Busch team members, a Porsche factory team member, the area down here is littered with potential and former team members, that's why they are here. Most guys who don't do it anymore have told me they were just tired of the road and the relatively low pay. The Porsche guy told me he worked anywhere from 100-120 hrs a week and would average $8 an hour though he was paid a salary. Bonuses were given but depended on winnings. My neighbor behind me works for Gibbs and sees his wife maybe twice a week. Its a job for the young, there aren't many over 30 pit guys out there.

And guys that can change a Nascar style tire in less than two seconds don't give a crap about scratching a wheel so they would be even more dangerous around you precious Pegasus
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,242 Posts
Re: (JoshV70_)

Quote, originally posted by JoshV70_ »
Put Locktite on threads that get threaded in, double-nut the other end, torque, then remove double-nut. I would let the Locktite sit overnight. Studs should not come out unless you double-nut them again.

Bringing this back up. What do you mean by double nut? Put 2 nuts on the bolt so they run into each other, then torque as needed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,009 Posts
Re: (GiRaff3)

Quote, originally posted by GiRaff3 »


Bringing this back up. What do you mean by double nut? Put 2 nuts on the bolt so they run into each other, then torque as needed?

correct
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,242 Posts
Re: (Chilled Man)

Quote, originally posted by Chilled Man »


correct

I'm not as dumb as I think I am!

I priced out everything needed off of the site listed above and it will be a little under $150. I cannot justify that right now because I do not take off my wheels enough...but I think it will make running spacers MUCH easier, because I will not need extended bolts.
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top