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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Washed the engine bay yesterday and was thanked with a misfire on cylinders 1, 3 & 5. 1 & 3 seemed to have dried out, because now it's only cylinder 5 misfiring. Trying to get to it, but the OTE pipe is on the turbo pretty tightly.

Any recommendations to getting the OTE pipe off the turbo housing? Penetrant ok? I wouldn't want to spray something near there that might hurt the turbo if it gets in there. Thanks
 

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Completely remove the V-band clamp and it will pop right off. I wouldn't spray penetrating spray for the risk of accidentally leaking some down into the turbo.
 

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Re: (phuz)

Yeah, I think you may just not have completely loosened the clamp. It has to be entirely loose and will spring open once it is, allowing the pipe to pop out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (djkronik57)

Thanks folks. I was unfamiliar with what was part of the clamp and what wasn't. Even though the bolt was disengaged, the clamp portion was seized to the pipe and turbo. One long screwdriver and a little twist and the clamp popped off its seat.

Perfect advice from both of you and thanks mucho http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Now to see if I can cure my cylinder 5 misfire (too bad to drive) and make it in to work at lunch-time (I have tons of vacay left, so it's all good) for the bragging rights alone
 

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Re: (JoeLvo)

If you want some more advise, don't spray water on top of the engine unless you are prepared to remove all coils and blow out the wells. I always just spray a little degreaser around what I want clean and wipe with a rag. You can spray water pretty much anywhere else and be ok but since the 5 cyl came out in 93 they are prone to water filling the plug wells with an engine clean. We stopped doing engine cleans on any 5 or 6 cylinder unless the customer is ready to pay to have the engine dried out properly http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (Oceans60R)

Quote, originally posted by Oceans60R »
If you want some more advise, don't spray water on top of the engine unless you are prepared to remove all coils and blow out the wells. I always just spray a little degreaser around what I want clean and wipe with a rag. You can spray water pretty much anywhere else and be ok but since the 5 cyl came out in 93 they are prone to water filling the plug wells with an engine clean. We stopped doing engine cleans on any 5 or 6 cylinder unless the customer is ready to pay to have the engine dried out properly http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

great tip! http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (Oceans60R)

THat is great advice. If only I would have sought it sooner


Do you think, in order to stop water from filling the plug holes, it would be enough to cover all of the blue plastics with plastic bags? I would like to clean it again in the future, but not if I'm going to run into this again.
 

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Re:

Quote, originally posted by JoeLvo »
THat is great advice. If only I would have sought it sooner


Do you think, in order to stop water from filling the plug holes, it would be enough to cover all of the blue plastics with plastic bags? I would like to clean it again in the future, but not if I'm going to run into this again.

That would probably work fine.

Also for those who may decide to try and pressure wash their engine bay, DON'T.

If it doesn't come off with a hose sprayer and some elbow grease, spraying all the connectors and electrical system with 1500psi+ water pressure will not make a fun day for you or your local shop when you have it towed there. I've seen some mighty expensive repair bills because Harry Homeowner decided to power wash his engine with his shiny new power washer from Home Depot. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Some people shouldn't even be allowed to butter bread
 

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Re: (Needsdecaf)

Quote, originally posted by Needsdecaf »
Alternator?
Worst I've seen was a crankcase full of water. Mr Homeowner had his timing belt off his old 240 and decided to give it a nice power wash around the front seals. Well you can imagine what happened. The engine exterior was clean I'll admit but water doesn't wash the inside very well.
 

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Re: (Oceans60R)

When I now wash a Volvo engine I just stay away from the top of the engine and no problems since...(the 1st one)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (JRL)

::Cylinder 5 is the drivers side, correct?::

Well, the plugs didn't fix the cylinder 5 misfire. I'm headed over to Fields Volvo to pick up a coil


I'm throwing parts at it right now, sure, but the scanner only says misfire on 5, so I'm really hoping and praying that it isn't some kind of control module.

Is this next step reasonable to you guys? What else could be causeing cylinder 5, only, to not fire? The coil is $83, which isn't too bad at all. I know I have to pay a premium to get my parts same day.

I did use a power washer. Dammit. But in my defense - I only used it to spray off the simple green. So I had the nozzle far away from the engine at all times, and I was basically just fanning the bay with water. Hopefully I can have the OTE pipe and blue plastic "banes of my existance" (today) off in 30 minutes (tops) this time. It's been a learning experience, I just hope I haven't somehow flooded my block or heads or something. I mean gees, there's no way water got in there that bad. I wasn't hot doggin with the sprayer or anything.

Modified by JoeLvo at 4:43 PM 3-23-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (JoeLvo)

So...

Anybody know if there's a module somewhere under the hood that directs current to the coils? All other electrics work fine.

Going to start it with the new coil on 5 (drivers side?) in a few. Fingers crossed.
 

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Re: (JoeLvo)

Yes, #5 is closest to the drivers side.
I would try that first, replacing the #5 coil that is. Most likely cause.
I would not drive the car with a misfire like that, you are likely to cook the Cat.
Then repeat after me "I will not spray water on top of my engine EVER!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (Oceans60R)

New coil is in. Waiting to find out if I've caused catostrophic failure with a torx bit down the turbo inlet (I dont know if it fell in there, but my buddy is bringing over a dentists mirror and a magnetic pickup tool. Fingers *still* crossed.

On a side note, that heat shield bolt with the spring, you know the one to get to the wastegate thimble? THat's a sumabitch, right there. Like I need more initial boost to suck the little bit down the turbo


Thanks http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (JoeLvo)

Quote, originally posted by JoeLvo »
::
I did use a power washer. Dammit. But in my defense - I only used it to spray off the simple green.
Modified by JoeLvo at 4:43 PM 3-23-2009
I would not have admitted that but more power to ya.
Seriously hope the coil fixes the misfire. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (JoeLvo)

Quote, originally posted by JoeLvo »
New coil is in. Waiting to find out if I've caused catostrophic failure with a torx bit down the turbo inlet (I dont know if it fell in there, but my buddy is bringing over a dentists mirror and a magnetic pickup tool. Fingers *still* crossed.
Joe, you are very dangerous indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (Oceans60R)

Yep. Watch out


That little coating of soot in the turbo has not been disturbed, so the mirror will confirm that the R engine bay eats torx bits as well as 10mm deep-well sockets. Pretty soon ill have to weigh the R, just to verify the tonnage of tools it can hold in the engine-bay blackhole.
 
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