SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 69 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi!

I've been off the forum for a few years (work, pandemic, I'm also a new dad!) but I'm getting back into giving the car some attention now. By the way, the XC90 has been a pleasure to drive, and I only need to borrow someone else's car or drive a rental (pre-pandemic) to come back and appreciate our car even more.

I think I've read most of the tow hitch related threads on the forum already and formulated a plan as a first-time tower. Just want to lay it out here to see if anyone has suggestions.

Intention is to eventually tow a travel trailer that's falls comfortably within specifications later this summer. My current plan is
  • Rent a UHaul6/12 storage trailer for this coming weekend as general towing practice.
  • Rent a travel trailer for a two night weekend 'test' vacation within a 2 hour radius of where we live
  • Later in the summer rent a travel trailer again for a longer trip, 10 days (or thereabouts, TBD).

What I have so far is the dealership installed OEM trailer hitch (original, not the retractable one). I never really had any problem with the aesthetics, and have been using it for a bike rack very often. I do not have a tow ball or ball mount yet.

When I rent my practice UHaul trailer, I was planning to purchase a ball mount/ball from them that they recommend to get it at the right height of ~18.5". I measured that the bottom of the installed tow hitch is currently at 15.5" from the ground after the car rises up from the easy entry/exit height.

Question: Would you say that the ball mount UHaul sells me would be good for towing travel trailers as well? Assuming they match the required height of 18.5" of course.


I asked the local dealership about OEM ball mount/ball and they quoted $321 for the two parts (31664202, 32207405). I looked up the parts, and they appear to be rated as follows:
Max. towing capacity:3500 lbs (1587,6kg)
Towball diameter:2
Max. ball pressure:350 lbs (158,7kg)

That's obviously below the 5000lb/500lb rating of the XC90. Was the dealership really about to sell me that? I'm a bit angry about it. I'm sure it fits fine, but I am guessing it is for the XC40 or XC60 where the specification might match the car's better.

Thanks to this forum, I found the right part number: 31373545. So to amend my question, will whatever UHaul outfits me with be sufficient, or should I also go ahead and order the OEM ball mount as well? Would this allow the ball to sit at about 18.5" height? I know its a bit more horizontal than others that have risers or drops.

I am also following Towing advice with OEM hitch with interest; I was not aware of the "any attachment should be made no more than 3.8" out horizontally and 4" vertically as measured from the pin." requirement. Is this something the dealership should have told me (or provided me with literature) when they installed the hitch? Maybe I missed it in the manual.

Apart from that, when its time to use the travel trailers, I'll get the RF brake controller as other posters have already detailed, along with very helpful steps to buy accessories that test it (and the lighting harness).

That's about it. If I'm missing anything obvious, please let me know! As always, gathered a wealth of knowledge from the forum. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
2009 XC90 V8 || 2008 C30 V1
Joined
·
364 Posts
From one dad to another, congrats! VOLVO DADS UNITE :D

First, you've already done a ton more than the average person towing a trailer by practicing. That's an excellent first step.

Second, the ball mount that you can get from your dealer (you listed as part #31373545) is a bit universal. You do not need a Volvo brand part, but instead anything that fits your Class III (5,000lbs / 2") hitch receiver. Nothing wrong with Volvo brand parts, but I do not think that would be a good choice in this case since you need a rise hitch for the camper and Uhaul. The Volvo part would keep your hitch height at 15.5" whereas for the Uhaul you will need a 3" rise ball mount per their recommendation of 18.5". The first one they recommended was probably a Class II, which is also a 2" hitch receiver but a lower rating. Here is a 3" rise ball mount that exceeds the 5K rating (definitely something that can't hurt):


The camper you rent will most likely have a different coupler height, so you may need to get that information to plan ahead. This will allow you to select the right rise / drop ball mount for a flat and even tow with the camper.

A recommendation would be an adjustable ball mount, but they tend to rattle around a bit more than a fixed one. But this solution would be something you could use for the Uhaul, and then adjust for the camper rental:


The only other thing to watch out for is the ball size. The most common is 2", but there are smaller (1 7/8") and larger (2 5/16") and it's likely the Uhaul and camper will have a 2". Still best to double-check.

Ask more questions! Let's get you towing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you @BKXC90 !

Quick update, I am unable to find a good OEM mount after all. These were the three avenues I tried:

- The original part number, 31373545, is not in stock anywhere and is pretty much gone since its discontinued in favor of the new retractable hitch.

- The volvo us parts website (official) only lists the part numbers for the retractible hitch for my car now so that's no help to find a replacement part

- The dealer was selling me those replacement parts I mentioned (31664202, 32207405 ) which are differently rated - as you said, class II I suppose.


That along with what you mentioned about the lack of rise makes me come to terms with the fact that OEM is out of the question.

Thanks for those links! I'll look at those now. The adjustable ball mount seems particularly interesting.
And yeah, I'll try to ensure the rental camper is also 2". I already confirmed the UHaul is 2", so we're good there.

I may have more questions when all these toys arrive :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: BKXC90

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
$321 for the ball and ball mount?!?! yeeesh. both parts should be well under $50. amazon has them, heck even walmart would probably have them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
$321 for the ball and ball mount?!?! yeeesh. both parts should be well under $50. amazon has them, heck even walmart would probably have them.
Yeah, when he said it verbally I was kind of surprised too; asked him to print the quote to be sure we were talking about the right thing.

PXL_20210609_215138362.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,068 Posts
Congrats on the big life event!

A number of things after reading through your post.
  1. Clever to get practice towing by renting a Uhaul! My first experience was this over 1800 miles. It was a little nerve racking at first as it technically was above the rated capacity but in actuality it was totally within reason as I made sure weigh the whole rig at a truck stop to double check including tongue weight. If I recall we came in at 10500lbs (our 2010 XC90 is 5200 with just me) and there were 4 of us (2 adults, 6yr old and 3yr old), and car seats, and other gear for our road trip. XC90s really tow very well, comfortably and safely!
  2. The dealer you went to is misguided on the correct ball and mount for the XC90. What they quoted sounds right for an XC60 or V90/V90CC which have lower tow ratings. Even then the price they quoted is outrageously high - most dealers have their own mark up above MSRP, I've found these especially egregious with Porsche dealers. I digress. The new tow ball that comes with the folding hitch has a Volvo price of $132. 32259544 - 2 ball for trailer hitch. 2 trailer hitch ball - Genuine Volvo Accessory
    1. If you look at the photos I had included in the thread you quoted above, you'll see the part number on the mount and ball that came with the original rigid tow bar that you seem to have. If I recall 31373545 was under $100 - although doing a quick search it turns up as discontinued now; makes sense since it's been replaced by the new one piece ball. If they have any in inventory you may want to look on usparts.volvocars.com and check for your dealer to see if it shows up and you'd be able to get it for no more than Volvo's suggested price or lower if Volvo has a sale again (like the Memorial Day one and where Riley Volvo, a SwedeSpeed Sponsor added an extra 15% off).
    2. Any 2" ball with ball mount will work although the upside of the Volvo ones is they tend to fit more snugly which reduces clanging. The one that came with the rigid tow bar like yours is actually rated for 7500lbs towing weight and 750lbs tongue weight - more than required. Volvo's are equivalent to the forged ball mounts like what Curt Mfg makes which cost over $90 for just the mount.
    3. Another option since the original ball with mount for the rigid tow bar is discontinued is to find the one from the first gen XC90 which has the same spec with 0.5" rise and length - Towbar, detachable Hitch - XC90 2010 - Volvo Cars Accessories - or you could find at your local auto parts or home improvement store. I've sometimes seen balls with mounts that have no rise and aren't excessively long.
  3. I don't recall what the moment arm is on the original rigid tow bar, but if you didn't receive the card that it came with you should be able to get under the tow bar and read it's spec. That's essentially the distance from fulcrum that gives you the rated capacity of the tow bar. If you go longer and/or higher it'll reduce and obviously if you go shorter you could theoretically increase your tow capacity but the reality is you really wouldn't want to especially not to exceed the load rating of the rear axles.
  4. RF Brake controller is a great option, it makes it easy to setup - no hardwiring work involved in getting it setup and it's easy to move from vehicle to vehicle. Since the tow module is attached to the tongue of a trailer, the remote control easily moves between our 2 XC90s as we decide which one to tow with.
I just remembered I had taken a picture from underneath after our 2017 was rear ended and the original rigid tow bar sacrificed itself as designed to save the structure. Here are the specs on the ball/ball mount dimensions for it. You can double check by looking at the label on yours in the same place. It ensures you don't exceed the design limits of the tow bar and it's application. To this day it baffles me that you can buy tow ball mount extensions in the US to extend the length of your ball from the tow bar and there are no warnings about their use. Curt and Reese make ones that 18" long! The amount of torque that length applies to the tow bar and rear attachments can be huge depending on the tongue weight/force!



You'll do great towing! That you're spending the time to read up, educate yourself, and practicing speaks volumes. You'll have fun with your camping trips!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks @VolvoUhu ! That information is absolute gold :)
I'll check under the car for the specs like you recommended, and I didn't think about checking the old XC90 parts - thanks for that suggestion!

I picked up my practice trailer this morning from UHaul. They set me up with a 7500lb/750lb tow mount and ball, I think it had about a 1" rise which is exactly what I needed after all (the top of the tow hitch receiver netted at about 18", and I suppose that's what one must go by for rise/drop decisions).

Used the 4-pin connector, lights worked as expected. Observations so far:
  • With this trailer size and pivot point at the ball, the trailer was tracking the car on turns pretty closely; not too much deviation from the lane. I practiced on a bunch of roads in moderate LA traffic this morning including on the freeway and things looked pretty straightforward.
  • Changing lanes was a bit frustrating - just because people didn't always give you enough room. I did end up going straight when I intended to make a turn due to that. Especially true on city roads.
  • Practiced reversing and parallel parking a few times, I think I have the hang of it. At least, I'm able to align the trailer exactly where I want it, but sometimes the car isn't exactly aligned. More practice I guess.

Things that came up:
  • On bumps, I think the trailer would momentarily trigger its surge brakes which caused slight jerks in the car, presumably because it was being pulled back. It would resolve itself a split second later. Assuming that's normal for auto surge brakes. Do you also feel that jerkiness with a wireless brake controller too? I am guessing it would be smooth with a controller because the car itself would otherwise not have any break in momentum to trigger the trailer brakes like that.
  • I had a spotter help me reverse/park. Think I'll get a cheap 2-way FRS radio to make that even easier.
  • Do you turn off your easy enter/exit setting when towing? Or does it not matter when the car's at rest anyway?

Attaching some photos of my latest parking attempt, haha.

Because the UHaul payload is peanuts, I'm not bothered about the ball mount yet. I think what I'll end up doing is keeping this one as a backup mount in the car, and purchase one within Volvo height/length specs (or close to it) when the time comes to haul a travel trailer.
PXL_20210611_163251834.jpg PXL_20210611_163312033.jpg PXL_20210611_163323771.jpg PXL_20210611_163331961.jpg PXL_20210611_163346507.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,068 Posts
With electric brakes you won't feel random braking action from the trailer as it's a combination of detecting when you apply the brakes on you XC90, the rate of deceleration combined with how much brake force you've dialed in for the trailer (it's adjustable). When you first get your trailer hooked up with the Tekonsha RF brake controller you'll do a few brake tests that'll help you calibrate how much brake force to dial into the brake controller. The manual for the Tekonsha will walk you through it. I believe it'll have you apply brakes from 45mph using the brake controller's e-brake button only so that you can adjust the force and feel of the trailer brakes relative to your setup. Once you're on the go you can always readjust as needed as you get used to it and dial in the amount you feel you'd want.

You essentially want less than is needed for the trailer to lock up and enough to where it's supplementing the XC90's brakes to help you brake faster than with no brake assist.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mxms533 and BKXC90

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Moving on the next phase of our plan - renting a trailer.

Would one of you fine folks glance over this listing:
2019 Forest River No Boundaries Trailer Rental in Rancho Cucamonga, CA | Outdoorsy
I gather the dry weight is 3800. I've asked the owners about the tongue weight already, awaiting their reply. They appear to have an anti sway system installed per the listing/photos. And, the first reviewer has a photo of an XC90 towing it too!

Another option I was looking at was:
2017 Forest River R-Pod Trailer Rental in Redondo Beach, CA | Outdoorsy
More compact, lighter, tongue weight 295lbs. The owner hasn't been to responsive so I don't know the dry weight yet.

Any opinions on either of these?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
2009 XC90 V8 || 2008 C30 V1
Joined
·
364 Posts
Either look good! The larger one will be more noticeable when towing, but not even close to the maximum limits of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Congrats on the big life event!

A number of things after reading through your post.
  1. Clever to get practice towing by renting a Uhaul! My first experience was this over 1800 miles. It was a little nerve racking at first as it technically was above the rated capacity but in actuality it was totally within reason as I made sure weigh the whole rig at a truck stop to double check including tongue weight. If I recall we came in at 10500lbs (our 2010 XC90 is 5200 with just me) and there were 4 of us (2 adults, 6yr old and 3yr old), and car seats, and other gear for our road trip. XC90s really tow very well, comfortably and safely!
  2. The dealer you went to is misguided on the correct ball and mount for the XC90. What they quoted sounds right for an XC60 or V90/V90CC which have lower tow ratings. Even then the price they quoted is outrageously high - most dealers have their own mark up above MSRP, I've found these especially egregious with Porsche dealers. I digress. The new tow ball that comes with the folding hitch has a Volvo price of $132. 32259544 - 2 ball for trailer hitch. 2 trailer hitch ball - Genuine Volvo Accessory
    1. If you look at the photos I had included in the thread you quoted above, you'll see the part number on the mount and ball that came with the original rigid tow bar that you seem to have. If I recall 31373545 was under $100 - although doing a quick search it turns up as discontinued now; makes sense since it's been replaced by the new one piece ball. If they have any in inventory you may want to look on usparts.volvocars.com and check for your dealer to see if it shows up and you'd be able to get it for no more than Volvo's suggested price or lower if Volvo has a sale again (like the Memorial Day one and where Riley Volvo, a SwedeSpeed Sponsor added an extra 15% off).
    2. Any 2" ball with ball mount will work although the upside of the Volvo ones is they tend to fit more snugly which reduces clanging. The one that came with the rigid tow bar like yours is actually rated for 7500lbs towing weight and 750lbs tongue weight - more than required. Volvo's are equivalent to the forged ball mounts like what Curt Mfg makes which cost over $90 for just the mount.
    3. Another option since the original ball with mount for the rigid tow bar is discontinued is to find the one from the first gen XC90 which has the same spec with 0.5" rise and length - Towbar, detachable Hitch - XC90 2010 - Volvo Cars Accessories - or you could find at your local auto parts or home improvement store. I've sometimes seen balls with mounts that have no rise and aren't excessively long.
  3. I don't recall what the moment arm is on the original rigid tow bar, but if you didn't receive the card that it came with you should be able to get under the tow bar and read it's spec. That's essentially the distance from fulcrum that gives you the rated capacity of the tow bar. If you go longer and/or higher it'll reduce and obviously if you go shorter you could theoretically increase your tow capacity but the reality is you really wouldn't want to especially not to exceed the load rating of the rear axles.
  4. RF Brake controller is a great option, it makes it easy to setup - no hardwiring work involved in getting it setup and it's easy to move from vehicle to vehicle. Since the tow module is attached to the tongue of a trailer, the remote control easily moves between our 2 XC90s as we decide which one to tow with.
I just remembered I had taken a picture from underneath after our 2017 was rear ended and the original rigid tow bar sacrificed itself as designed to save the structure. Here are the specs on the ball/ball mount dimensions for it. You can double check by looking at the label on yours in the same place. It ensures you don't exceed the design limits of the tow bar and it's application. To this day it baffles me that you can buy tow ball mount extensions in the US to extend the length of your ball from the tow bar and there are no warnings about their use. Curt and Reese make ones that 18" long! The amount of torque that length applies to the tow bar and rear attachments can be huge depending on the tongue weight/force!



You'll do great towing! That you're spending the time to read up, educate yourself, and practicing speaks volumes. You'll have fun with your camping trips!

@VolvoUhu Great posts with valuable information! Looks like you're a pro at towing with the XC90.

I too am in the planning stages of a cross country trip with my XC90. My plan is to first do a self-install of the this Stealth hitch for my 2016 XC90 T8 Inscription. Rather than towing a camper I'm hoping to tow a short wheel base vintage Mercedes G wagen (curb weight is approximately 4600 lbs) on a Uhaul Car transport trailer (Empty weight: 2,210 lbs.). As you can see the total weight is approximately 6850 lbs (+/- 200lbs). Clearly this is well over the tow rating of the XC90. Would I be crazy to attempt this? Have you ever exceeded the recommended tow capacity?
 

·
Registered
2009 XC90 V8 || 2008 C30 V1
Joined
·
364 Posts
@VolvoUhu Great posts with valuable information! Looks like you're a pro at towing with the XC90.

I too am in the planning stages of a cross country trip with my XC90. My plan is to first do a self-install of the this Stealth hitch for my 2016 XC90 T8 Inscription. Rather than towing a camper I'm hoping to tow a short wheel base vintage Mercedes G wagen (curb weight is approximately 4600 lbs) on a Uhaul Car transport trailer (Empty weight: 2,210 lbs.). As you can see the total weight is approximately 6850 lbs (+/- 200lbs). Clearly this is well over the tow rating of the XC90. Would I be crazy to attempt this? Have you ever exceeded the recommended tow capacity?
That’s really pushing it. If it were a pickup designed for towing (body on frame, brake controller, etc.) it MIGHT be okay to exceed the manufacturer’s recommendation by a little bit. But 2,000lb over on a midsize SUV is asking for trouble. You’re also putting the other drivers on the road at risk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Updates:
I have the following travel trailer booked as a rental this upcoming weekend:
2021 Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS Wolf Pup 16BHS | Forest River RV - Manufacturer of Travel Trailers - Fifth Wheels - Tent Campers - Motorhomes (forestriverinc.com)
Specs Say -
Hitch Weight - 377lbs
Dry Weight - 3097lbs

Driving a couple hours south from Los Angeles for the weekend with it, flat (I-5 mainly). Although I already purchased a Tekonsha Prodigy RF as recommended on this forum (arrives Friday), the owners also provide a wireless brake controller. Not sure what brand yet. I'll have the option to use either since I pickup the trailer on Saturday.

Question: If I was to use the Tekonsha, how should I mount it on the rental (assuming of course, drilling holes is not possible). Heavy duty zip ties?

Side Question: I'm going to change out my stock Pirelli Scorpion tires soon. Anything to look out for on a new set as it relates to towing? I understand I should match or exceed the loading rating of the current tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I'm definitely having fun with it at this point.

Picking up the trailer on Saturday.

I went ahead and learnt how to use CAT Scales (downloaded the app, setup payment, etc). It was very easy, didn't have to talk to anyone or get out of the car. They're located in some sketchy areas of downtown LA which was the only downside, but had a pretty good practice weigh. Will weigh again after picking up the trailer.

Here's what I got back (without trailer):
128664


And plugging it into a spreadsheet (edit: corrected some numbers):

128665


Weight Column:
The actual weight was for each axle, 2580 and 2480. I calculated the payload (two passengers and some equipment) as Weighed Gross - Stated Curb Weight.

Available Column:
Just subtracting from the limits posted in the manual for everything.

Projected Column:
I'm assuming we'll add 200 lbs of gear and considering 500lbs of tongue weight (though in reality it will be lower ofcourse), making projected additional payload 700lbs that increased the gross weight by the same amount.
I added the 200 lbs of gear to BOTH front and rear axles though in reality they will be split between the two so this is double counted (additional safety buffer).
I added the 500 lbs tongue weight to just the rear axle.

Buffer Column:
After all those projected additions with built in buffers and double counting, I still came out under the limits - which is what I was looking for.

End result: I know I can load the car with 200 lbs of additional stuff safely :D
I'll weigh again after I have the trailer to see what it's like in reality.


This was more of a learning exercise; I know I was unlikely to go over limits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Updates:
I have the following travel trailer booked as a rental this upcoming weekend:
2021 Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS Wolf Pup 16BHS | Forest River RV - Manufacturer of Travel Trailers - Fifth Wheels - Tent Campers - Motorhomes (forestriverinc.com)
Specs Say -
Hitch Weight - 377lbs
Dry Weight - 3097lbs

Driving a couple hours south from Los Angeles for the weekend with it, flat (I-5 mainly). Although I already purchased a Tekonsha Prodigy RF as recommended on this forum (arrives Friday), the owners also provide a wireless brake controller. Not sure what brand yet. I'll have the option to use either since I pickup the trailer on Saturday.

Question: If I was to use the Tekonsha, how should I mount it on the rental (assuming of course, drilling holes is not possible). Heavy duty zip ties?

Side Question: I'm going to change out my stock Pirelli Scorpion tires soon. Anything to look out for on a new set as it relates to towing? I understand I should match or exceed the loading rating of the current tires.
Updates:
I have the following travel trailer booked as a rental this upcoming weekend:
2021 Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS Wolf Pup 16BHS | Forest River RV - Manufacturer of Travel Trailers - Fifth Wheels - Tent Campers - Motorhomes (forestriverinc.com)
Specs Say -
Hitch Weight - 377lbs
Dry Weight - 3097lbs

Driving a couple hours south from Los Angeles for the weekend with it, flat (I-5 mainly). Although I already purchased a Tekonsha Prodigy RF as recommended on this forum (arrives Friday), the owners also provide a wireless brake controller. Not sure what brand yet. I'll have the option to use either since I pickup the trailer on Saturday.

Question: If I was to use the Tekonsha, how should I mount it on the rental (assuming of course, drilling holes is not possible). Heavy duty zip ties?

Side Question: I'm going to change out my stock Pirelli Scorpion tires soon. Anything to look out for on a new set as it relates to towing? I understand I should match or exceed the loading rating of the current tires.
just towed my friends trailer with Prodigy RF last weekend, used outdoor water proof tapes to wrap the trailer module around A beam and it worked well. Only downside was some residual was left when removed. This is what I used

3M All Weather Duct Tape, 1.88 inches by 30 yards, 2230-HD, 1 roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00605AP3...abc_7A9TXWH5SH9ZTZWQAPDW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
just towed my friends trailer with Prodigy RF last weekend, used outdoor water proof tapes to wrap the trailer module around A beam and it worked well. Only downside was some residual was left when removed. This is what I used

3M All Weather Duct Tape, 1.88 inches by 30 yards, 2230-HD, 1 roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00605AP3...abc_7A9TXWH5SH9ZTZWQAPDW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! Great to know if that worked out. I mounted the controller on a small piece of wood that I was going to secure with zip ties, but will keep duct tape handy. Will receive it this evening and try to post a photo.

I do have a couple questions about pairing.

Followed instructions on the forum to use a 7 pin to 7 pin adapter which I think allowed it to pair. The CE now says NC which I think means it is paired but no trailer is connected (accurate if so).

I also have a 7 pin to 4 pin light tester. When I connect it to the tekonsha, the lights are all correct. However the handheld module is still NC and doesn't change to C. Is that expected? Will only a real trailer make it C?

What is you startup routine? I am guessing you don't have to pair it every time you start the car. Do you start car first to power the brake controller, then plug in handheld module?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Thanks! Great to know if that worked out. I mounted the controller on a small piece of wood that I was going to secure with zip ties, but will keep duct tape handy. Will receive it this evening and try to post a photo.

I do have a couple questions about pairing.

Followed instructions on the forum to use a 7 pin to 7 pin adapter which I think allowed it to pair. The CE now says NC which I think means it is paired but no trailer is connected (accurate if so).

I also have a 7 pin to 4 pin light tester. When I connect it to the tekonsha, the lights are all correct. However the handheld module is still NC and doesn't change to C. Is that expected? Will only a real trailer make it C?

What is you startup routine? I am guessing you don't have to pair it every time you start the car. Do you start car first to power the brake controller, then plug in handheld module?
It was the same for me, I also used the 7 to 7 pin adapter to pair and the handheld controller would show C only if an actual trailer was connected. I guess it might require certain resistance, which testers would not have.

You don’t have to pair it every time, it was pretty smart and stable I even didn’t follow the same routine every time and it was always able to connect. The best way bro verify is the numbers show up on the display when you step on brake, the deeper you press the bigger number it shows. And you could adjust the dial to set the sensitivity. Simple!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Folks, this didn't progress too well unfortunately. The people I rented from hooked up the trailer, I confirm a C on the tekonsha hand module (thanks for the note @drzdbd ). everything checked out.

In the same parking lot, I proceeded to perform a brake test.

Test : manually depress brake at 6.0 sensitivity. I could feel the trailer pulling me back.

Test : at about 10-12mph, gently depress the car brake. I heard something unexpected behind.

Got off to this:
128768


The tailer owners were on the way out and I called them back in. We are now waiting on a tow truck from Volvo on Call (who were excellent, courteous and fast) to get the car unstuck. The insurance services from rvshare.com, from who I rented from, can't send anyone apparently because they are busy.

While waiting, I am wondering what went wrong.
I am sure the tekonsha was connected and working, could feel the pull when manually actuating brakes.

The trailer owners performed the coupler lock on the ball, not me. Wonder if they didn't couple it correctly.

The damage is what it is, inside a storage parking lot and not on a freeway (wasn't going to leave without extensive testing). I am more concerned in learning what went wrong.

You'll see from then photos that I used the Volvo raised ball to better reach the trialer's height.

More photos

128769


128770





This was my tekonsha setup btw that I was quite proud of:

128771


128772
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Ouch....looks like either the trailer wasn't mounted onto the ball correctly or it's the wrong size ball. I always test and make sure it's mounted after I lock it down by trying to lift the trailer.

I also never trust someone else to mount things to my vehicle without double checking myself.

Hopefully it's just your bumper cover that will have to get replaced...not really much else right there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Sorry to hear that. Usually the coupler would not lock in if the ball is not completed mounted . I also suspect ball size was not correct… ball size is usually listed in the description on RVshare and on top of the ball, I wonder how come it could be missed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 69 Posts
Top