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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, it may not be, but I brought home a 97 today from about 2 hours away. Not bad considering I was looking as far away as Seattle.

Cosmetics aren’t great, hurricane Katrina left some scars on her, paint and plastic trim is oxidized, (sadly) front bumper is slightly cracked, plus a bunch of little fiddly bits that need replacing on the interior. Mechanically it’s pretty good, runs great, shifts great, needs new rear shocks, small oil leak from oil filler cap (I think/hope), and it seems I have to push the brake in really far before it really starts to brake (booster, bleed, brake fluid flush and bleed?). There’s some issues with climate control (no heat, ac works, heater core not plugged).

Plans are stage 0 over the next few months while I work on the brakes, oil leak, and rear shocks, the heater issue can wait till November or December. The top end was rebuilt about 2 years ago, and engine runs well, PCV and timing belt serviced then, too. Eventually upgrade the turbo (or just replace with rebuilt 15g/16t), new exhaust and downpipe, and a tune (vast/Bsr/?).

As soon as I can get a chance to get on my computer, I’ll post some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
filler cap definitely leaks some, but it seems like the turbo leaks a little, too, and a little by the cam pos sensor. So a new gasket for cap, rear cam seal, and play spot the turbo leak.

Could oil leakage be a result of improper gasket used for the head install? Random thought.

Going to get it on ramps and clean it off in the next week, monitor where leaks are coming from as I drive it.

The power wires to the abs pump have old cracked insulation, and some corrosion visible on them. Not touching anything, so I don’t think it is shorting out on anything to throw a code. But with corroded wires, is it possible it’s not getting proper voltage to run the pump well?
 

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The power wires to the abs pump have old cracked insulation, and some corrosion visible on them. Not touching anything, so I don’t think it is shorting out on anything to throw a code. But with corroded wires, is it possible it’s not getting proper voltage to run the pump well?
The ABS pump has nothing to do with normal, stop to stop braking that would be causing your pedal issues. It would be good to wrap those wires for the moment.
 

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Oil leak from the filler cap is sometimes a result of positive pressure in the crankcase. Could be boost pressure getting into the crankcase through the PCV or that the block passages are clogged. Sometimes those don't show up on the glove test. I replaced the PCV in my dad's T5 SE (which was in New Orleans when he bought it!) and it now passes the glove test but seems to have boost pressure getting into the crankcase.


Let's see some pictures :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update!

Getting used to the brakes, taking care of oil leaks first, followed by PCV service.

Turbo oil return line leaking, lower oil cooler line from rad to oil thermostat leaks (will rebuild line, $130 for some metal fittings and hose is too much), rear exhaust cam seal (might not be leaking, but it looks like it might be, or just a little from oil filler cap leak is running onto it). I don’t think the oil filler cap gasket leak is pressure related, there’s not a whole lot under the spark plug cover, it’s actually ridiculously clean under there, except right behind filler. The cap gasket is also thin and quite hard, not really sealing any at all.

PTC was relatively clear, some build up, but all openings clear.

Pictures will come soon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also worried the turbo’s oil seals are toast, and that’s part of the oil leak. Could see oil in the hose when I pulled the PCT out, and there’s some on the underside of the pipe going into the intercooler, I’m sure oil doesn’t help the intercooler in the slightest.
 

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Also worried the turbo’s oil seals are toast, and that’s part of the oil leak. Could see oil in the hose when I pulled the PCT out, and there’s some on the underside of the pipe going into the intercooler, I’m sure oil doesn’t help the intercooler in the slightest.
Just get a new CHRA then. Easier/cheaper than rebuilding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hadn’t thought of that, thank you, much less downtime than a rebuild.

The last time I was dealing with oil leaks like this, exhaust was clogged with chunks of catalytic converter bits. Oil in intake dropped off as soon as I changed it. What are symptoms of that? Shouldn’t that throw a code? Or is the 4.3 ‘puter just too “dumb” to see a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Finally got a good picture. The passenger side isn’t looking as pretty, I always park next the wall, so I can’t clean up the oxidation in the mornings like I did the driver side.

Few weeks from now I’ll have more time to switch out brake fluid, trans fluid, rear suspension, vac lines.

Still on hunt for a red hood, drip molding, and some other bits and pieces.

 
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