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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I figured I would make a build thread since it is almost done now (haha).

in February of 2016 one of my friends offered me "an old Volvo I drove in college 20 years ago that is sitting in my parents garage [barn]". I was looking for a fun project to go with a Route 66 trip in classic cars that a couple of my friends and myself have. When I asked why it was parked 20 years ago, she told me that something happened with the engine so she parked it and gave it to her brother who got far enough to take out the engine, but couldn't get it back together and in the car again. So, I went to go take a look at it. hoping that it was pre smog, and not a rusted out wreck. And and aside from its butt being against a barn door and accumulating water between the body and bumper for 20 years it looked pretty good. and the price was right.
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note the lack of engine
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Nice low mileage example (haha)!

Teenage engine storage compartment (driver's seat well)

The original engine was stored carefully wrapped in a plastic trash bag in the trunk.
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Secondary Engine Storage (trunk)
So, I said I would take it off of her hands and got it back to my dad's shop. took the two blocks and heads that it came with and sent them out to a machine shop to get checked, cleaned and gone over. Wound up using the original engine for the car, and now have a spare (yay). So we set to work on getting it back together with the full gasket set that was in the trunk as well. Turns out that we did not have to do anything to the cylinders, and are using the stock pistons with new rings.
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Note, this is before we broke the camshaft timing gear
Rare photo of my dad helping
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The head was treated to new exhaust seats, and a couple new valve guides and stem seals.
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The rocker assemblies were both found to be in great shape, so they were retained.
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One of the cams had practically no wear, so I used that with new lifters. For the timing gears, We broke the fiber timing gear during removal, but managed to get a steel set from Eric at Hi Performance.
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Getting some of that good Volvo Red!
Found some other parts were no good, got new injectors and such, all new rubbers Then it was time to go in! (see if you can spot my error)
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That's right keen eyed readers, the motor mounts are backwards!
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so, once we flipped those around it slid right in with absolutely no issues whatsoever (right).

And thatw as where the real fun started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Once we got the engine in, with the help of the Chilton Book and Volvo's Green book we managed to get everything wired and plumbed up.
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it is in fact a factory AC car! but that is still a work in progress. now it was time to get distracted by things further back in the car. I put a 123 ignition distributor on it, found a deal on it in the Netherlands and it was cheaper to buy it there and ship it here.
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The gas tank was left half full for over 20 years, so it came out and went off to a fellow in Stockton who cleaned and resealed it for a very reasonable sum. we then wired up a new fuel pump, new filters, new fuel hose back to front, and we were ready to fire it up!
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But oh no! we wound up discovering a large crack in the stock manifold and no one locally would touch it to reweld the cast iron. so, I found a 4 to 1 header for it, got it all pretty and threw it on
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Then Finally, after about 6 months of weekends down to Santa Cruz from Sacramento, it fired up!

Next step was getting it to roll out of the shop and onto the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Around this time, i was looking for some sweet wheels to go with my awesome new ride. So I looked far and wide and a fellow on Tbricks was selling a set of wheels for a 165 that were 5.5 vs 5.0 which let me put on some meaty 195 tires on it. So i picked them up and got the wheels powder coated.o
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old busted. vs. new hotness.
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new hotness complete with new tires.

at this time I also rebuilt the brake system with all 6 brake hoses, 4 calipers, and 1 master cylinder changed out and bled. that was a chore!
now it was time to throw the interior back together
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everything is better with a co pilot dog!

Only problem I had when getting the lights all working was the tail lights had completely rusted. So I had to source some new housings, could not find Hella housings, so I had to get Cibie housings, but then had to find Cibie lenses, since for some stupid reason they have a different bolt pattern. Hi performance came through again and happened to have a set of NOS Cibies on hand so I bought them, and eventually put them on.
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Then I finally fired up and when I went to drive it, it started running really rough under load. turns out it was the distribution block in the left front of the engine compartment and my grounds. So I cleaned them all and put it back and got it running nicely. So I drove it from Santa Cruz to Hollister to get ready for the sprint to Sacramento.
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Here it is nice and happy in Hollister. Circa May 2017
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From there it was a simple matter of driving it up I5 to get to Sacramento. It actually ran quite well, and I only lost one mud flap!
Since it has been up in Sacramento for the last 4 years, I have been slowly working on more cosmetic related things, wound up getting a coolant leak from the heater control valve and replaced it with one from a 90's astro van. It works, but I need to go back and redo the lines to make smoother curves, and now my cool to heat knob is reversed. Oh well. I also wound up having my windshield wiper pullys snap due to them being made of plastic, and me being an idiot and turning them on to wipe off what I thought was melted ice on a chilly winter morning.
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getting in there was... "fun" but I also decided to tackle interior lighting and rattle detecting while I was in there.
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new pullys, on ornament boxes because... why not.

Fast forward a few years. I've been driving and having fun with the Volvo, but it started being a little odd when cruising just off idle, see my other thread about throttle position switch. While Ron Kwas indicates that what I did should not have solved my problem. doing the swap, and a lot of cleaning, did solve my problem. Would the problem have been solved by simply deep cleaning everything and not replacing the board? Most likely, but we shall never know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Other odds and ends that I am doing/ done with:

new, old, cast iron manifold. My dad had a friend of his say "hey I have some old Volvo parts, do you want them? and in them was a stock exhaust manifold. so I got that, cleaned it up, coated with header paint. and now it is waiting getting new studs to go on so that my 2" exhaust will go on.
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new one on the right, freshly coated vs. old one.

I do have a question about thickness for the mounting flanges. the original flange measures @ 19.77mm for all of the shared mounting surfaces with the intake manifold, while the "new" one measures @19.07mm for the same surfaces. should I take off the intake manifold and get them matched, or is 0.7mm not big enough worry about?
Fixed my clock! I read a lot of threads on this, and decided to say, well... I can do that! so I jumped in and took apart my clock
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then very carefully (using low temperature solder) resoldered the doohickey there, put it back together and viola! a working clock.

it has been ticking along great for the last 4 months now.

LED lights front and rear. This one was mostly for safety, and partly so that I don't melt my tail light housings, since I have those nice NOS tail light lenses, I decided to refurbish my used housings and used some nice shiny silver paint on them. now they're great and I have nice and bright lights so people can definitely see me at night
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nicely painted ones on top, old one on bottom
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nice and bright.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New ball joints, uppers and lowers, new poly suspension bushings front and rear (in progress)
New springs and Shocks (in progress)
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New drive line carrier bushing (in progress)
new tie rods and sway bar links and bushings (done)
new 2" stainless exhaust (in progress)

new throttle cable, new linkage, and bushings. turns out that the zinc plated guy was not the right none for a fuel injected Volvo, but i just wound up not using it.
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And that's about it for the time being. Going to get the exhaust tackled first, then work on the suspension. Then it is time to start working on making it look pretty.

I also managed to get the last NOS door card from VP Auto parts. They only had a passenger side one.. So i'll be taking this and my old drivers side one to some upholstery shops to make a new drivers side.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Made some progress today. Got i took my manifold to a machine shop to have the studs taken out. I tried myself but they were quite stuck in there.

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Tried the weld a nut on the stud then after it cools hear the manifold to red hot and back it out... It did not work.

So trained professionals to the rescue.

In anticipation of the manifold I decided to pull the old broken exhaust off and put on most of vp auto parts stainless sport exhaust.

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Then i tried my hand at panhard bushings. And man... They took a lot of hammering but putting in the new poly bushings was super easy. Just lined them up and eased them together with soft jaws on the vise. Sorry no pictures of that. I was getting tired.

Well. That's it for the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got my manifold back from the machine shop. Hooray. It was very reasonable too considering i got both sides surfaced and all 3 holes had to be drilled out and new threads put in.

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Upon conferring with my father I am going to take the intake manifold to go get surfaced as well and while I'm at it make the mating surfaces match between the intake and exhaust.
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I'm not certain if the spacing for the mounting bosses was originally the same but it varries from 17mm to 21mm. I'll let the machinist worry about that though.
Next step is clean this mess



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Took off the studs as well since they are allthread. Does anyone know if the studs are 5/16 -18 all the way through or do they go from 5/16-18 to 5/16-24? I'm trying to get new studs and am thinking about just using the coarser thread since it can hold a bit more torque on those massive studs

Daniel
 

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The rocker assemblies were both found to be in great shape, so they were retained.
View attachment 123087 One of the cams had practically no wear, so I used that with new lifters. .
Did you check the face of the rocker where it contacts the valve stem? It is normal to wear a groove in the contact face on the rocker which makes adjusting the valves difficult unless you use a narrow Vee feeler gauge. A good old school machine shop can grind out the grooves fairly quickly. I had mine done and it cost about $40 - 8 years ago!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One set had a little wear on them and the other set looked practically new so I juat cleaned them up and ran them. Valve adjustment has been easy the 3 times I've done it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So. Today I decided to be ambitious and strip the intake manifold before handing it over to the machine shop. I got everything off except for the throttle plate. Got one of the screws out. But would you know it the other one was fused into the brass like it lived there or something. Some creative persuasion later I got it out. But at a small cost.
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It is still in one piece. Found one on eBay for $30. So it's on its way and the manifold is off to get surfaced and treated to a full pampering.
I do have a question though. Where is the distributor supposed to take vacuum from?

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Is it from that little guy on top? Cause that's where i have it now. But on the underside there is a matching sized nipple so I am curious.
 

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Yes the tiny one at the top. The vacuum unit on the distributor is a retard, not advance. Apparently an attempt at reducing emissions. Purportedly runs better with it disconnected. I capped mine off years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Excellent. I have a 123 distributor and have it set for the "b20e" setting so it does what it does and works fine. I can test out the capping and non running of vacuum. But thanks for letting me know. I wonder what the one on the underside is for.
 

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Excellent. I have a 123 distributor and have it set for the "b20e" setting so it does what it does and works fine. I can test out the capping and non running of vacuum. But thanks for letting me know. I wonder what the one on the underside is for.
The port on the bottom of the intake (at about 7 oclock) is for the evaporative system purge air. It is connected to the 2nd line emerging from the top of the evap cannister.

The engine will run without the vacuum retard function. I don't know that it runs better; but, it is different. The vacuum retard function was a feeble attempt to reduce nitrous oxides by lowering the combustion temperature at part throttle. You will notice that at idle, the exhaust will have a slightly more eye burning sensation as it is generating more nitrogen based nasties than than with the vacuum retard function enabled.

The vacuum retard won't affect maximum horsepower because that is at wide open throttle and you are running on straight RPM based advance at that point. If you elect to run with the vacuum retard disconnected it will alter idle speed. Since you have disassembled the intake manifold and throttle, you are going to have to go through the complete throttle set up / idle set up procedure. Do the idle set up with the vacuum line disconnected then cap off the vacuum line. With the vacuum line capped the engine idle speed will increase about 200 - 300 RPM and you will need to adjust the idle speed back to target using the idle air by-pass screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think based on your response that I will leave it hooked up since it runs just fine at the moment. That is interesting that it is the evap canister since my car has the canister and had that nipple plugged up.
 

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The vacuum line from the manifold to the cannister purges the activated carbon in the cannister of hydrocarbons so that they can keep on doing their ' capture thing'. If the vacuum line to the cannister is no longer connected then its not being purged. I don't know whether that leads to potential clogging of the cannister or whether it just means that the cannister does not capture fuel vapors anymore - in which case it is effectively like my car. My cars was 'static' for about 30 years with the result that the evap cannister rusted out and the inlet plugged up so I tossed it. The vent line from the tank now just opens into the engine compartment. Net effect is that on hot days the fumes from the tank exit into the engine compartment and the car has a definitely unpleasant l'eau du refinery odor. The Volvo cannister is out of production so I have been meaning to visit the local pick and pull to scrounge an evap cannister and purge valve from some mid '80s GM product which is similar to the Volvo cannister.
 

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142guy;

...some thoughts about the Evap Canister...if not drawn away by a vacuum connection to the Intake Manifold, I don't think the canister gets "clogged" per se, but I would expect the charcoal to eventually get saturated and unable to hold any more HC molecules (admittedly the same effect, just a different term!)...
I've also seen the long term failure of these canisters to be the perforated bottom screen rotting out and all of the charcoal granuals dropping out and getting lost...I figured if the rest of the canister was not beyond repair, soldering a copper screen into the bottom and refilling it with activated charcoal granuals (aquarium filter supply) would do it too...

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So. I found something out about my canister. It was indeed hooked up. But let me get to that in a second.

Got the manifold back from the machinist. Beautiful work.
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So I took it home and cleaned it up. Safety first
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Took a brass wire brush to the manifold and cleaned it up. Then cleaned all the nipples and attached them. And that is where my questions come in. I have numbered them below and am outting my thoughts on what they are numbered below the pictures. Please let me know if I am wrong.
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1. Vacuum source to the distributor.
2. Non choked un barbed nipple. I believe this goes to the vacuum canister inside the car.
3. Barbed and un choked. I believe this goes to the oil cap.
4. Un barbed and choked (has a reducer inside it). I think this goes to the brakes through a check valve.
5. Brass fitting with barb. Manifold pressure sensor.
6. This is currently connected to my canister. Go figure.
7. Little brass guy with barb. This was blocked off with a cap for me. I have no idea what it should be for.
8. Auxiliary air valve air source. Before the valve
9. Auxiliary air valvw source. After the valve
Again. Let me know what i have wrong. I am confident one of 2, 3, and 4 are incorrect.

Reason why 6 is at the canister is this is the stock volvo hose that was on the canister
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Also cleaned up the mating surface to the head today and got it ready for reassembly.
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Please ignore by custom wiring harness for the alternator. My car didn't come with one so my dad and I made one out of a mercedes harness we had lying around
That's all for today.

Daniel
 

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I think you have 3 and 4 reversed. The fitting with the restriction in it goes to the oil filler cap. The fitting restricts air flow through the PCV system. Without it you will be admitting too much 'false air' at idle and won't be able to get your idle speed down to the correct value. The brake booster normally has no material air flow through the port so it does not need a restriction.

I can't advise on #2 because my 1971 does not have the sophisticated vacuum controlled push button heater valves - just the cables turned by a big wheel on the dash.

I don't have a clue about #7 because my 1971 does not have a port there. However, the barb on #7 looks like 1/4" which I think is the size of the barb for the line that would go to my evap canister. On my 1971 the evap vacuum lines were 1/4". #6 is where my evap line would go; but, the barb looks way to big for the lines that were on my evap cannister.

Are you planning on doing something with your oil pressure switch wiring and the thermal timer wiring for the cold start valve. They look a little dodgy. They typically get cooked by the exhaust manifold and the insulation hardens and falls off causing interesting problems. Easy to clean up with no manifolds in the way. Not so easy once the manifolds are in place. I run a woven glass jacket over my wiring to help deal with the heat in that area.
 
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