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Ahhhhhhh - similar boxy construction to the 140. Also in keeping with your plans for a rough surface rally kind of look with lots of ground clearance. You won't have to worry about seeing yourself on the street. I predict that VP Auto or CVI or Scandcar do not carry a full range of parts.

Are you married? Are you still married? If so, you either have a very accommodating spouse or she was well aware of the particular kind of crazy she was marrying into.

Does this mean the 142 build thread is going to get side-tracked?
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Ahhhhhhh - similar boxy construction to the 140. Also in keeping with your plans for a rough surface rally kind of look with lots of ground clearance. You won't have to worry about seeing yourself on the street. I predict that VP Auto or CVI or Scandcar do not carry a full range of parts.

Are you married? Are you still married? If so, you either have a very accommodating spouse or she was well aware of the particular kind of crazy she was marrying into.

Does this mean the 142 build thread is going to get side-tracked?
I'm not married just long term relationship. It's sort of an unspoken rule that we don't discuss the habit. :)

I don't think it'll sidetrack the 142 project. I'm still slowly assembling parts and thinking through designs. I'm contemplating selling the international to roll funds into the 303 but as it is now it's very usable until the 142 is done. She doesn't fit in the garage though at over 90" tall. Talked to Misab this week and they do ship state side so that's an option for dcoe mani's. Door cards arrive next week also. My kg rocker stand will be coming over end of month in checked baggage from a friend that's visiting from Malmo.

Parts only really carry over on the b30 the remainder you're sort of reliant on places that specialize in the mechanicals ie portals. I don't know anything about portals yet... The body is aluzinc so zero rust. The overlander community seems to know a few things about these.

I just want to pick up people with it one weekend using Uber...

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Is your vehicle a true C series or the Laplander which was the civilian version of the C?

The Volvo push rod engine made it in to another couple of pieces of military equipment, the Bandvagen 202 (B18) and the Haubits FH77 howitzer (B20 as the aux power unit). Your C with a Haubits FH77 would make an interesting display combo; however, even with the Haubits' aux power unit running I don't think your C would be up to the tow job. Plus, I expect that used ones still tend to be a bit pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
It's a true C series. TBG11 is the designation. I think Laplander gets used as a generic reference but it should in all honestly apply for the L3314 series (c202). The C303 did come in civilian dress but there are subtle differences such as headlight wipers, a recess under the oval b-pillar window on the drivers side and a notch cutout under the middle doors. Also the civilian models were always steel whereas you could get the military version in aluzinc which is what this particular c303 is made of. I do plan to civilianize it however since trying to find one is near impossible due to rust issues. They are hard to find as it so I decided to just go with a military model. This particular one has 33k kilometers so it's very low mileage.

I don't believe this one has a PTO on it but I'm not 100% on that.

Is your vehicle a true C series or the Laplander which was the civilian version of the C? I'm not sure but I believe the Laplander designation was for the C202 which had the b20?

The Volvo push rod engine made it in to another couple of pieces of military equipment, the Bandvagen 202 (B18) and the Haubits FH77 howitzer (B20 as the aux power unit). Your C with a Haubits FH77 would make an interesting display combo; however, even with the Haubits' aux power unit running I don't think your C would be up to the tow job. Plus, I expect that used ones still tend to be a bit pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Figured I would check in here. It's been a hectic end of 2018 and start of 2019. I still don't have my 142 running yet. Still religiously starts yet dies with no restart after it warms up. My C303 has been consuming all of my time with repair after repair and since I cannot hide it away anywhere like I can my 142 when it's broken I am forced to address the repair work immediately. :)

I really do miss driving the old girl.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Alright... Replaced the engine temp sensor near the IAC and after some tweaking she no longer dies and will restart when warm. I still have enrichment issues as well as idle problems. Had to plug the booster which helped but I can't seem to get a reliable idle. I need to replace the vacuum lines and go from there.


https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c5e12a3b1bd1/received_592447861179667.mp4

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c5e12a3b72cc/received_289526615051221.mp4

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If you are having persistent idle problems (hot & cold), have you set up your TPS as per the D jet service manual? Aside from the switch that opens and closes as you rotate the switch, I vaguely recall that there is a switch that has to go closed when the throttle is shut off. This puts the D jet into idle control mode. If the throttle stop screw has been adjusted and that switch is no longer closing then you end up with a condition where the engine will not hold a steady idle speed. If the wires inside the TPS break (solder joint fractures) you suffer from the same problem.

The temp sensor at the front near the idle air control valve controls temperature sensitive enrichment so no surprise that a faulty sensor will bugger up cold running. If possible, check the resistance of the sensor circuit at the plug connector on the D jet. If there is a significant discrepancy between what you measure there and what you measure at the sensor then you may have a wiring deterioration issue that you need to address. On my 1971 all the wiring on the harness to the injectors and the CLT senor had become hard with cracking insulation just past the bend where it comes up from the firewall and runs along the fuel rail. The wiring on the first 10 cm from the TPS connector and Intake air temp sensor suffered from the same cracking / flaking problem. The cracked / missing insulation resulted in intermittent bad / non operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Spent the past week working on the 142 finally giving it some much needed TLC. A cooling system rebuild on my b30 proved to be a pain in the butt eating up three full months of weekends. Since then I have been working on replacing vacuum lines on the b20 and plan to do some more djet diagnostics this weekend. What I have found is the AAV causes the vehicle to hunt at idle so I plugged the top port and the vehicle runs much better at initial start up. It has also reduced the frequency of warm idle hunting. I tried to clean the AAV but it did not change a thing. I did drive it about 25/30 miles yesterday and after 15 miles about 50% of the time at a red light or at a stop it would start to hunt again. I tried to determine if it was under hard braking or if there was something else I was doing that was causing this but I still have a leaking booster which I know affects idle so I am tempted to just bite the bullet and get a replacement so that is past me.

I've been told that it's $500 to send the booster off and have rebuilt but also VP autoparts has one for the b20e but I am not sure as I remember there were two different types for the 142e? Maybe I am remembering incorrectly??

Still, my b20 is worn as it emits a constant grey smoke which is more pronounced when taking off from a stand still so I have some questionable internal wear (I've known this for some time). It does smoke a bit more than it did before I had parked it for 10 months so perhaps it will improve a little with use...or worsen.

I set my TPS as best as I could from the Djet manual but have not inspected my wiring loom yet at the injectors, tps, map sensor or any other location. I did have to repair the condenser wire to my coil as it was about to crap itself. I have no hot start issues now the forward temperature sensor remedied that as stated a while back.

Let me also ask this. What causes a stumble at return to idle after revving? I have noticed that after a hard rev the engine will stumble as the revs seems dip too low before it tries to recover and normalize back to where it is set at idle.
 

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Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Have you done the hot water test with the AAV yet? Drop the coolant and remove the AAV. When cold, you should be able to look down the top port and see a Vee shaped opening (open when cold). Place the AAV in boiling water and you should see that Vee opening close off. If the AAV is permanently stuck open or closed you are never going to be able to get a satisfactory idle. There are rebuild options for the AAV; but, I have no idea how well or if they work. Its possible to retrofit the later style AAV from the K jet or the even later 2 or 3 wire electric valves from the L jet which would require a stand alone processor of some sort.

When you did your TPS set up, did you check the operation of the auxiliary contacts in the TPS. The D jet manual specifies the status of the contacts depending on the position of the switch. The Djet has a fuel cut function to cut fuel during de acceleration which is controlled by one of those aux switches. I think the other switch has to close to put the D jet into idle control mode.
I did not check the contacts. Which repair manual is that in? I've been avoiding dropping coolant but I'm to that point now. She's been smoking a lot so I did a compression test today to see what shape my rings are in or whether I could go after replacing the valve stem seals. I'm not to the point where I can do a b20 Rebuild with all my other car projects so I was hoping to inject a little more life into the 142 until I can focus 100% on it. Here are my plugs with compression numbers.

#4 is the lowest and #1 and #2 the highest in that assortment.


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Discussion Starter #74

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The fuel injection trouble shooting manual is here, about 1/2 way down the page.

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

If you don't want to drop the coolant level, you can also check the AAV by looking into the top opening of the AAV with a cold engine (Vee should be open) and with a hot engine (Vee should be closed). The primary advantage to the water bath test is that you can watch the Vee to see if it moves smoothly as the water temperature increases.

Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

My 1971 B20E with less than 6000 km since a rebuild runs 163, 166, 165, 168 psi. The engine was rebuilt with an F head gasket (because the gasket kits don't come with E gaskets). If you have an E engine with an E head gasket the 170 - 175 psi numbers would be more in the money. 130 psi is definitely a problem.

A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

#1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I'm also baffled by the lowest compression cylinder having the best looking plug while the higher compression cylinders are opposite. You'd think that cylinder #4 if losing oil through the rings would have a plug that showed signs of that.

I'm not really trying to chase down a full rebuild yet I'd just like her to run a few years longer without running like **** and consuming or leaking so much oil. I'll be honest, this engine wasn't really well cared for and I've never taken the time to properly dig in to see what's up.

I'm planning on dropping coolant, pulling the aav as well as the injectors. You don't happen to know where you can find new pintle caps do you? Someone recommend this injector repair kit for a b30e which is similar. Also what are your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors?



Interesting that the cylinders with the highest compression test results have the crappiest looking plugs.

A leak down test will give you more definitive results on engine condition; but, in the absence of having the required equipment, try the dry / wet compression test on the low cylinder. If the 130 psi cylinder cranking pressure increases with a wet test that is a pretty good indication that the rings are worn. Its odd that the plug for the 130 psi cylinder looks so clean. I suppose that it is possible that the oil control ring is working and the compression rings are shot???

#1 and #2 almost look wet from fuel. Try pulling the injectors out of their retainers and then power up the D jet to get the fuel pump to pressurize (don't start the engine). Check for leakage from the injector tips with the fuel system pressurized.


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The cap on the end of the injector is not super critical. I believe that it is there primarily to help control deposit build up on the injector tip. I think; but, am not 100% sure that the replacement BA injectors that I installed on my car do not have that cap. I know that the cap on one of the original Bosch injectors on my car had gone missing and the injector worked just fine. Deposit build up on the surface of the injectors does not seem to be a huge problem on the B20E.

RC and WitchHunter have a good reputation for their mail order injector cleaning service. The up side is that after cleaning they flow test the injectors so you know whether they are flowing equal amounts of fuel. Of course, if they do not flow equal amounts of fuel after cleaning your only course of action is replacement. You would have to check around to see if there are shops local to you that have a good reputation. One of the major problems may be that the Bosch injectors use barbed fuel connections as opposed to the more modern style. Smaller local shops may no be set up to clean a barbed style injector so check that out first.

Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=47160&cc=1497757&jsn=371
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Ok I pulled the fuel rail yesterday and powered up the pump and the injectors were dry..no dribble that I was able to detect. The engine however is just so sludged and full or crusty carbon deposits. I removed the rocker assembly and pushrods and cleaned the top as best as I could but the two rear cylinders are tacky as can be when trying to slide the pushrods in and out. It's like I setting them in a cup of cold molasses.

I always knew the engine had some wear on it when I bought it but it always hung in there. I'm not so sure I shouldn't just pull it and start working through a proper rebuild. Perhaps valve stem seals, a good decarbonization and proper djet run through with injector service would help but I could also have extremely high oil consumption after I do this.

She always smoked when idling at a red light and taking off or at first start and decel but never has it had a constant plume after warm up. Pretty sure I ate a quart in one day but she leaks oil also so that's also a contributor.



Do the remove and check for injector drool test first. If you have an injector with major drooling, all the cleaning in the world may not be able to fix that problem. If you pull the injectors, make sure that you have the replacement rubber seals for the pintle tip. These harden with age and if they are original, once you disturb them they will not reseal. Pintle seals and the larger rubber ring around the injector body (which is less important) are fairly cheap.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=47160&cc=1497757&jsn=371


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No leakage from the injectors is good. Sending them out for cleaning won't hurt because that has value regardless of whether you start the engine rebuild now or later.

Given your description of the engine, I would personally not be inclined to try a valve seal replacement as an interim fix. Save it for if and when you do a more complete rebuild. If you have access to a vernier caliper or a dial gauge with a magnetic mount, it can be useful to measure the valve lift at the valve spring retainer. The original B20 cams and lifters have issues and seriously worn cam lobes and lifters are not uncommon. After adjusting lash, if the lifts are significantly different between valves or out of spec with the service manual that is a sure sign that you need a camshaft / lifter replacement. Cam wear changes the cam timing which can alter the dynamic compression of the engine and uneven wear might contribute to some of your compression test variability.

If the cam / lifters are toast I would not be inclined to spend too much time diagnosing possible D jet problems. If the cam is worn you can't bodge the D jet into making the engine run better unless you are prepared to start messing with the hard wiring of the controller. Save your D jet refining exercise for an engine that is in reasonable running condition.
 
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