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Discussion Starter #81
I forgot to put how many quarts you added to the engine *today*?

and no, you're not dumb. And I'm not making fun of you.

but 4.5qts!! WTF?!. There's definitely something else here. that's waaaaay to much oil to dissapear in 3 months. unless you drive like a maniac.

I usually add 1/2 qt after 6 months or 3k miles.
I’ll admit, I have been driving a bit harder on occasion because of my new exhaust but not constantly on the throttle. I really don’t know where it would’ve gone... I have had my check engine light on for a while for the MAF (See that thread elsewhere) and it’s been running rich. Could running rich cause oil to burn faster?


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Not sure if running rich could make oil consumption worse.

But I've always been told that an engine will burn more oil if you beat on it.
 

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I'm very skeptical of the quality of the oil you had remaining in your car. I used to get a grey sludge buildup under my cap during my worst burns/lowest oil volumes. Take a peak underneath the fill cap. That might have something to do with conventional green castrol i was adding though. I don't think there is anything linear about oil burn either. We know it's worst in the summer above 86 or 88 degrees or whatever. And I'd bet it gets exponentially worse as oil volume decreases as well. There was at least a time I added a quart just to get back to the bottom line on the dipstick like 4k miles after a change.

There is something about working on cars where you always figure out the worst case scenario before you find out the easy fix for what ends up being a simple problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I'm very skeptical of the quality of the oil you had remaining in your car. I used to get a grey sludge buildup under my cap during my worst burns/lowest oil volumes. Take a peak underneath the fill cap. That might have something to do with conventional green castrol i was adding though. I don't think there is anything linear about oil burn either. We know it's worst in the summer above 86 or 88 degrees or whatever. And I'd bet it gets exponentially worse as oil volume decreases as well. There was at least a time I added a quart just to get back to the bottom line on the dipstick like 4k miles after a change.

There is something about working on cars where you always figure out the worst case scenario before you find out the easy fix for what ends up being a simple problem.
The oil I had put in when I changed it several months ago was Liqui-Moli from FCP Euro. The oil I added today was Castrol Edge high mileage (I know Volvo recommends castrol just not sure what type). I guess I really really need to keep on checking it and not assuming it’s fine. I’m just glad I was able to figure it out in the simplest way possible.

I appreciate all of the help from everyone in the thread even though it ended up being user error here


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Ok so a few things here:

#1 - Running conventional in a turbocharged engine is a modern day nono. That is the source of your sludge. It will make more sludge unless you change at LEAST one of two things:

#2 - You can either change to synthetic, or wait about 60 seconds after you get to your destination before shutting the car off. This lets your turbo cool off, allows everything to cool down before exiting. It will prevent conventional from beginning to coke up from the lack of flow over the bearings as the heat has nowhere to go. Additionally, it will keep your turbo seals and bearings in the best possible condition and prevent the same overheating condition from occurring.

If you change to both synthetic AND have a cooldown period before shutoff, that is the best possible scenario where you avoid most of your potential problems. This is a trick from the big diesel world to help your equipment last much longer before needing repair.

#3 - If you grip it and rip it before your car has fully warmed up, you are probably blowing some oil out the tailpipe there. There is always some amount of ring gap until your engine is fully heated and everything is warm. IIRC it is something like .002 or .003" and once the car is heated up, it seals and you get much less blowby. Lookforjoe mentioned this on his high hp build, but the premise is present on all cars with modern day rings.

#4 - I put 6.5qt in every oil change (5,000 mi). If I am broke and I can't afford to change the oil filter, I just do 6qt. This usually results in the oil line being about 3 or 4mm below the F mark after everything is warmed up and the oil canister and all the block passageways have been filled. On drainout, I usually have lost about 1/2qt total. I commute 120mi/day and the engine lives at 85mph (3200 rpm) so if your car is eating that much oil, consider finding the cause. I should note that I have had this engine since it was brand new, so I am not accounting for an older engine that someone else took care of before it was yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Ok so a few things here:

#1 - Running conventional in a turbocharged engine is a modern day nono. That is the source of your sludge. It will make more sludge unless you change at LEAST one of two things:

#2 - You can either change to synthetic, or wait about 60 seconds after you get to your destination before shutting the car off. This lets your turbo cool off, allows everything to cool down before exiting. It will prevent conventional from beginning to coke up from the lack of flow over the bearings as the heat has nowhere to go. Additionally, it will keep your turbo seals and bearings in the best possible condition and prevent the same overheating condition from occurring.

If you change to both synthetic AND have a cooldown period before shutoff, that is the best possible scenario where you avoid most of your potential problems. This is a trick from the big diesel world to help your equipment last much longer before needing repair.

#3 - If you grip it and rip it before your car has fully warmed up, you are probably blowing some oil out the tailpipe there. There is always some amount of ring gap until your engine is fully heated and everything is warm. IIRC it is something like .002 or .003" and once the car is heated up, it seals and you get much less blowby. Lookforjoe mentioned this on his high hp build, but the premise is present on all cars with modern day rings.

#4 - I put 6.5qt in every oil change (5,000 mi). If I am broke and I can't afford to change the oil filter, I just do 6qt. This usually results in the oil line being about 3 or 4mm below the F mark after everything is warmed up and the oil canister and all the block passageways have been filled. On drainout, I usually have lost about 1/2qt total. I commute 120mi/day and the engine lives at 85mph (3200 rpm) so if your car is eating that much oil, consider finding the cause. I should note that I have had this engine since it was brand new, so I am not accounting for an older engine that someone else took care of before it was yours.
I actually have the 2.4i motor, not the T5. I’ve been using full synthetic since purchasing the car due to it being higher mileage anyways. This is really good info though as I plan on potentially buying a C30 in a year so this helps a lot.

As for the sludge I’m not sure what caused it other than the PO skipping an oil change... moosetech was the one that suggested it as it’s related to the PCV system in our cars and can sometimes happen if proper care hasn’t been taken in the past.


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I checked the oil on my car and the dipstick reads similar on both sides.

This confirms you added enough oil on your car after reinstalling the oil pan.

Also, just to confirm:

Does your oil dipstick look the same as this one?

P/N: 30777500








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Discussion Starter #88
I checked the oil on my car and the dipstick reads similar on both sides.

This confirms you added enough oil on your car after reinstalling the oil pan.

Also, just to confirm:

Does your oil dipstick look the same as this one?

P/N: 30777500








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Yeah my dipstick is the same one pictured.


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Yeah my dipstick is the same one pictured.


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Good, just asking because I saw a freshly rebuilt diesel engine runaway caused by having the wrong (shorter) dipstick.


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OP, do you have any updates???


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Discussion Starter #91
OP, do you have any updates???


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Engine has been running fine other than my check engine light (which I have had on for years since I bought the car, that’s another story/thread...). Oil level is also fine, checking it a couple times a week. Everything seems to be normal thankfully


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Nice!, good thing you didn’t drop the pan again for nothing.


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Discussion Starter #93
Nice!, good thing you didn’t drop the pan again for nothing.


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Definitely, would’ve been a lot of work for nothing, although I probably would’ve realized it before dropping it because hardly any oil would’ve drained... oof.

Now to solving my mysterious MAF code and high fuel trim...


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