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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I've been seeing oil residue on the white plastic piece over the driver's side axle for a while. Just started digging into it by tracing it upwards and taking the timing belt cover off. Pics below... I can't figure out where its coming from as I'm not too familiar with the area. Two pics - one of top down, showing the whole situation, the second is a pic of the timing cover. There's an area of oil traced out by the belt spraying it around, but there seems to be accumulation in two places. Hopefully this is helpful evidence for you experts out there?? Appreciate the help!



 

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Camshaft seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmm okay so I guess ill have to pull the belt off and the damper off to see if that's actually the case?

Or if its the cam seals I would have to pull those?

Any way of determining without having to pull everything (so I can order just the right parts).?
 

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Looks pretty dry up by the camshafts... maybe the crankshaft seal? Looks like oil is getting on your timing belt too (edges look wet, and looks like oil on the outside edges of the pulleys). Might as well replace that while you're at it.
 

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cam seals. oil will come out of the seals then get spin by the belt and settle down at the bottom. easy to confirm by degreasing it then look again in a few minutes with the car running
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, fortunately I've got a timing belt kit just hanging around that I've been delaying putting on, so I'm able to replace that stuff.

Any special instructions for removing the cam wheels? Do I need to mark positions or do they only go on one way (as long as the camshafts don't move). Tips for how to do this?

I've got a busy weekend... Timing belt, radiator, fmic... Lol
 

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I have not ever done a dual vvt, single vvt was a pain the first time to do the belt. Doing cam seals require removing the cam gears and locking them from the other side of the head. Not fun and not a 10 minute job for the first timer. Have access to a full tool box will be suggested :) makes life easier

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
 

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Okay, fortunately I've got a timing belt kit just hanging around that I've been delaying putting on, so I'm able to replace that stuff.

Any special instructions for removing the cam wheels? Do I need to mark positions or do they only go on one way (as long as the camshafts don't move). Tips for how to do this?

I've got a busy weekend... Timing belt, radiator, fmic... Lol
Do some searching and read the service instructions, this is not an easy job without the proper tools as burg mentioned. If you have never done the timing belt on a dual VVT car it could be difficult as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I've got the full tool box at least - and am prepared to make my own counterhold tool to undo the 30mm nut, but I'm really unable to find anything in the way of a how-to on doing the cam seals or how to lock the cams.

Can anyone provide insight to this? I'm feeling pretty comfortable with the basic timing belt procedure, the cam thing is just an extra wrinkle I don't much care for...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wanted to add after doing an inspection I'm pretty sure its the intake cam seal. Looked at the inboard sides of the cam gears - intake dirty, exhaust not.

Not doing the job right away, will update the thread w/ details when I do
 

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So, I've been seeing oil residue on the white plastic piece over the driver's side axle for a while. Just started digging into it by tracing it upwards and taking the timing belt cover off. Pics below... I can't figure out where its coming from as I'm not too familiar with the area. Two pics - one of top down, showing the whole situation, the second is a pic of the timing cover. There's an area of oil traced out by the belt spraying it around, but there seems to be accumulation in two places. Hopefully this is helpful evidence for you experts out there?? Appreciate the help!



Hate to resurrect an old post, but this seems to be a common problem with these cars in their later days. My understanding is that you do not need to worry about it so long as you are using synthetic oil, since it will not eat the rubber of the belt. However, the mess will continue to get worse and that can be a problem in itself. I'm I right? Also, there is a product called AutoRx (http://www.auto-rx.com/store/#!/Auto-Rx-Plus/p/54515781/category=0) that I have used in the past (about a decade ago) with success that solved a problem with a rear main seal leak on my Mercedes 190E 2.3. You need to follow the instructions and use Dino oil for the application and rinse. Just wondering if anyone else has had success using this product for this particular application.
 

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Synthetic oil will weaken the belt the same as standard oil. It all starts as crude. Any stop leak oil added is not a good idea as it causes ALL the seals to swell and not necessarily in good way. Those are not meant to be a permanent fix and rarely ever work as advertised. Replacing the leaking seal and checking crankcase pressure is the correct method for fixing an oil leak.
 

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While you're in there, check the piston cooling valve (looks like a bolt head just above the crankshaft) mine was loose and leaking.
 

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Thanks guys for the replies. I'm going to do the "glove test" first to make sure my PCV system is functioning properly. I will also check the "piston cooling valve" to make sure it's not leaking. BTW, AutoRx is not a stop leak, it's formulated with Boran (used in Borax) and when used with conventional oil, it supposedly makes the seals "flabby" and cleans out any gunk between the seals. It has great reviews at bobistheoilguy.com and I have perxonally used it with great success on one of my previous vehicles that had a leaking rear main seal. There's two steps, a "treatment cycle" and a "rinse cycle". If my PCV system is OK, this is what I will try first. If that doesn't work, the seals will be replaced.
 

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Goddamn it I just PM'd the wrong person from like 3 years ago due to this thread necromancy
 
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