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Just an update on parts ordered, if anyone has any tips for thi gs ice missed, I'm doi g the order in two parts to keep it under 1000nzd and therefore not have to pay import tax so there is a second order to come. View attachment 130403 View attachment 130404 View attachment 130405
On the next order I have to add serp belt tensioner, fuel pressure sensor, fluids,
Some additions to your list worth considering:

- New vibration dampner ( crank pulley/harmonic balancer) bolt as these are TTY and need replacement everytime they are taken out. P/N 30741329

- injector o-ring kit- get the one from eBay ( there are a few links of those floating around here) it comes with filters and pintle caps and bunch of other things for the injectors.
It's labeled as FJ1073

- Get some of these connectors for the fuel injectors as they tend to be very brittle and break during disassembly. You won't find them through Volvo. You are better off depinning these molex connectors than splicing off
P/N Standard Motor Products S824

- New PCV valve
P/N 30720100

- Fuel Pressure sensor
P/N 31272732

- Powersteering hose ( inlet ) which covers over the plastic cover and visible on top
P/N 31323019

- Right side motor mount while you are in there, they collapse and won't be that apparent unless you compare it side by side with a new one
P/N 30645745

- top right motor mount (assuming it is the same as S80 , double check this one)
P/N 31262448

- I would suggest going for the HEPU water pump instead of GRAF, I had ordered both but found HEPU to be more OEM like. Although in my opinion on a car with 160K miles, the water pump was in a pretty decent shape , same with thermostat. And the Volvo water pump has much better impeller design and bearing design than the HEPU or GRAF ones. Also change the thermostat while you are in there with the original Volvo one from FCP(comes with the gasket- you will see my review on the aftermarket one lol)
P/N 30720083


- Ignition coils if you have the budget. Mine were drenched in oil and I remember having a misfire code when I punched the accelerator once. P/N
8687939


That's all that comes to mind right now (I staring at the all the part packages I have replaced and giving you the P/N lol)

Btw, how does your alternator look? I believe it is easier on the XC90 than S80 so you could do that later.


Disclaimer: not service recommendation, DIY at your own risk and skill level

Good luck my friend!

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Also, a product like Permatex HIGH TACK Gasket Sealant will come in handy to ensure the gaskets stay seated while you install your covers. ( Pictured below is the valve cover gasket with this tacky stuff )

It is VERY tacky, it will get everywhere so use it sparingly.

I found the best way to clean off the excess was to dab a shop towel in real fast successions - imagine a snake's rapid bite , that's how fast you to need to dab the metal surface with a towel to get the excess off perfectly.

This is my first time using this and I haven't cranked my engine yet and don't have any real world data on its negative effects. Maybe someone else can chime in on the efficacy and compliance of this product.



Also you should definitely clean the covers to get rid of the crud and carbonized oil deposits.

Two ways to do it(tried both)
1. Machine shops / auto shop to hot tank in a caustic bath (be sure to verify that the bath is aluminum safe)
Did my valve covers this way.

2. Fuel injector cleaner , some type of xylol xylene & toluene based solvent and lot of elbow grease assisted by a plastic brush (the dish washing plastic brushes work well - obviously don't wash dishes with this after hahahha)
Did my timing cover this way


I found hot tanking is much more convenient and thorough if accessible.


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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I've used vaseline for that purpose when rebuilding rotary engines which then melts away when engine warms up, not sure if it can be used in this instance
 

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I've used vaseline for that purpose when rebuilding rotary engines which then melts away when engine warms up, not sure if it can be used in this instance
Ignore my comments if you know better lol.

I am a newbie DIYer, so I am always overly cautious and may get some things wrong along the way.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Advise away. Any info is good info, I got a email to say my parts had been dispatched so should be a week or two away. I'll work a few weekends in exchange for some weekdays so I've got a good amount of time to tackle it
 

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My theory behind using the tack sealant for installing the gasket is that Vaseline after it melts way will most likely leave micro voids/gaps where as the tack stuff won't, because it is also a sealant.


Also this will come extremely handy for your water pump gasket because of the limited room to maneuver and adjust, this tack sealant will act as a second hand to seat that metal gasket properly on the pump while you install it.

A hypothesis at best. Haha

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