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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have picked up a 06 v8 which has an oil leak, pulled off the plastic covers today to try see what's what. We have reciepts for valve cover gaskets being done, and doesn't look to be top of steering pump. I can see oil on underside of alternator.. What other options do I have for the leak? I'm hoping not timing gear gasket.. Any info on how to move forward with diagnosis appreciated
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This is on a S80 V8. The same engine so I believe the leak locations should be atleast similar.

I just pulled my timing cover yesterday because it was definitely leaking.


I have highlighted the sections where I observed the oil has been leaking from. Hope this helps narrow down your source and maybe eliminate a leaking timing cover!


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^^ I think you've probably identified where my '06 seeps are coming from (I did bank covers but not front), thanks for posting. I'm impressed that you did this on a S80, engine still in the vehicle?

OP, the amount of oil you've got is not that much in my opinion,. Get up under there with something that will clean the oil off plus clean the pan and keep an eye out. You can try a high mileage oil, that may give you some slight relief (it did for me). I'm living with my seep for now, it's not enough right now to make me want to go back in and fix it.

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^^ I think you've probably identified where my '06 seeps are coming from (I did bank covers but not front), thanks for posting. I'm impressed that you did this on a S80, engine still in the vehicle?

OP, the amount of oil you've got is not that much in my opinion,. Get up under there with something that will clean the oil off plus clean the pan and keep an eye out. You can try a high mileage oil, that may give you some slight relief (it did for me). I'm living with my seep for now, it's not enough to make me want to go it and fix it.

Edit- Add OP comment
Yes sir, engine still in the vehicle and the car is on the driveway . All seran wrapped lol:p

All ready to put the timing cover back on today.

I don't wish these jobs on anyone. Smh



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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm hoping like hell it's not timing cover... Don't the the time or patience to do it.. And don't fancy a 3or 4k bill to get it done.. I have some receipts from when the valve covers were done that say Pcv valve leaking.. I thought Pcv was other side of engine so not sure if this is the source?
 

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A leaking PCV will be very apparent. Bunch of oil and gunk next to the PCV on the rear bank valve covers- ( Driver's side L.H.D vehicles)

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drivers side US? We are rhd and oil is leaking down on this side, I have negative pressure on the oil filler so I guess the valve itself is fine
 

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If you can get some photos from higher up and the area under the PS pump, might be helpful to see. Your engine could indeed be seeping from the cover, especially if the areas match in some way the earlier photo with the markings. If it's a real bother, get the cover sealed. How many kilometers? Original PS pump, alternator, aux belt and idlers?
 

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Drivers side US? We are rhd and oil is leaking down on this side, I have negative pressure on the oil filler so I guess the valve itself is fine
If you mean the driver's side ( R.H.D), basically the timing cover (front of the crank) side it may very well be the timing cover and valve cover mating surface. Photos will be helpful.

In my observation, due the casting shape of the covers, sometimes the oil leak may very well meander and collect on a spot far away from the source.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's done 95000kms so and I have all reciepts from previous owner who bought it at 45k kms so I'm guessing it's all original. Serp belt looks a bit patchy.. I will price gaskets up this week I have a quote from one place for $2200 to do valve/timing covers and sepr belt/idlers which was less than I thought it would be.. If I was to do it myself I'd probably replace more things than that while I have it all stripped down.. But he quoted 12 hours so sounds like a mission... Also mindful that I have an early model v8 that may crap out its transmission at any point.. So not sure I should be sinking money into this car or not
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So update, I took it into my local euro mechanic to try diagnose, he said yea looks like timing cover leak, he said engine out job and gave large quote... So I'm biting bullet and have bought a load of parts from fcp euro. Will do timing cover and valve cover gaskets(kit), power steering pump oring kit, new serp belt/tensioner/idlers. New water pump, fuel filter/pressure sensor, spark plugs. I'll attempt the job myself in the driveway so will take a 3 day weekend soonish and get it done, a few walk through on YouTube and various posts.. Are there any specific tools I need that I'm overlooking? I have a puller and torque wrench, sockets spanners, will make special spanner for the ground wires, need to sort something for the tensioner (I've seen a 19mm nut on a bolt that seems to work).. Any help or advice appreciated, this thing is pissing out oil these days.
 

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Pretty certain you'll need a full set of intake manifold gaskets too. A tech just did this job in the shop and he pulled both halves to do the t-cover.
Short of the factory counter-hold and breaker bar you'll probably need a good 1/2" impact to get the crank pulley bolt loose.
 

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Crimper and ring terminals as a start. Someone can help with size, think what I was using had yellow insulator for the crimp, and the fastener thread diameter is 6mm. You might have decent luck getting the backs off intact, even with a thin bike wrench in the middle, I could not get 2/4 off (I've done this job twice on separate vehicles).

Get all the gas you can out of the rail and a little oil on the bases may help getting the injectors out at the same time a little easier (depending on if you take the top clips off or not). The fuel pressure sensor attachment pedestal needs to be fully detached (2 bolts) before you even think about touching the rail. No need to crank down on the FPS, make it snug and call it a day. Doublecheck your PCV, better in my mind to replace rather than clean but yours to decide. PCV hoses for sure but they come in the kit if you're doing FCP, use screw clamps for the big hose connection if you want to keep it tight over time.

If you can detach the fuel pipes on the rear (5/16” remover I think) bank, you'll get a lot more room to work the rear cover. Nice and easy on putting the covers back on and before you even think about buttoning everything up use a mirror on the back of the rear bank to make sure the seal didn’t dislodge and the cover is fully in place..

If you’re doing water pump, do thermostat. And if the issue with your PS pump is resolved by an o-ring change, I’ll be very happy for you. CHF11S or CHF202 if you’re changing the fluid.

Take lots of photos, wire loom really needs to route exact on the manifold before the rail will fully seat.

Cut-down Allen for the tensioner, this is in the serp belt thread. 6-point socket for the tensioner release and explicit instructions on tension release/return, also in the thread. If you’re doing a new tensioner, keep the bracket for the next time you do any belt work, it’s invaluable.

@DaPineappleDude will be your best resource for the front cover and I’ll see if I can forward you the exchange he and I had on torque and fastener order.

Some photo links in here, might be good to have for reference- V8 (B8444S) related information | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum

Good luck with your work.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just an update on parts ordered, if anyone has any tips for thi gs ice missed, I'm doi g the order in two parts to keep it under 1000nzd and therefore not have to pay import tax so there is a second order to come.
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On the next order I have to add serp belt tensioner, fuel pressure sensor, fluids,
 

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Gonna re-use the PCV or are you buying new? Will be interesting when you do your power steering pump rebuild, take before/after photos please. I have two of these on a shelf, if you're successful it'll be a great option to repair versus replace.

In my unsolicited opinion, FCP pricing discounts are not that great on any of the OE parts unless you intend to "work" their lifetime warranty. See plugs for one example- FCP has them for $86, Lisle (Volvo dealer) has them for $70-30731383 - Volvo Spark Plug Set. SPARK PLUG KIT. Spark Plug Kit. Ignition Coil, Spark Plug | Volvo Cars Lisle, Lisle IL

edit- unsolicited opinion with data backup
 

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You can save yourself on the pulleys Gates 38005. It's a match to the Volvo and costs ~20 bucks. I would replace all three (including the one on the tensioner) they are all the same, the tensioner just has a reversed screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ah so tensioner doesn't go bad only the pulley on it? I'm keeping all the things to one shop to save on postage as I'm shipping all the way to Nz.. Prices are still way down on anything I can source locally (who source overseas anyway)
 

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I did not see the tensioner in your cart which is why I mentioned it. I guess it depends on your availability. I have replaced pulleys and belt on mine twice in 162k miles, I have yet had to replace the tensioner, but some do break or slip when the belt is being pulled off.
 

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I would agree with the above, think the general consensus is that if you can feel comfortable with levering the tensioner and not breaking anything, it's not worth the extra $150 or so to replace the entire assembly. Just buy a third idler (same PN as the other two).

Having said that , were I were living in New Zealand and shipping a full job of parts over, I would ship the full job and keep my old parts for backup (with new bearings on the idlers).

The FCP seal kit is great, once in hand measure the diameter of the big PCV hose and preposition a couple of appropriately sized stainless steel screw clamps before you get too far into the job. Know I mentioned this in the earlier post but you really don't want to button everything up with the spring clamps, they won't keep a good seal over time. As well- since I see that you bought a dipstick, maybe also consider buying an oil cap o-ring. It's PN 8692870.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes I had found the oil cap oring so had that on the shortlist too. The pull ring of my dipstick has snapped off so going for a new item.
Another thing of concern is the other week the underside of the oil filler cap had a thick film of cream on it.. I'm hoping it's just condensation from the short town running and winter here.. It hasn't come back so far and oil and water both appear to be as they should.. Still concerning seeing as I'm about the chuck a decent amount of money and time at it..
 
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