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oil filter anti drain back

7K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  pbierre 
#1 · (Edited)
Found some bits of plastic floating around my oil filter housing. It appears to be the anti drain back valve. There are some older posts about it, but the solution is buying a whole new filter housing. Any newer solutions out there?

Edit: New thought

I wonder how many vehicles are running around out there without the anti drain back operating. Based on the other threads, it seams like everyone who has looked has the issue. Since we don't hear about many engine failures, is this even an issue that needs to be addressed?



 
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#5 ·
At the bottom of the aluminum housing. Has a spring type metal piece that makes contact with the filter to shut when the filter is installed. The purpose is when you unscrew the filter and the cap releases the oil valve opens and drains the housing into the oil pan. Must open up filter before you open the pan bolt or you will not get all the old oil out.
 
#7 ·
The problem is not with the oil draining out, it is with the ability for the valve to hold the oil in day in and day out operation. The true test of a drain valve operation is to drain the oil at the plug without first touching the filter. Let the oil all drain out until it is only a slight drip. Then with the drain plug still out open up the filter cap until it clears the thread while someone is watching the pan. An additional amount of oil should start to drain. If it does not the drain valve is not properly holding the oil in the filter and this would cause a duration of time when starting to prime the oil pump and that is bad for the engine.
 
#8 ·
Mine had fell off. Could hear motor thrash a bit on cold start as oil would all drain out of filter. Not real good for it, thats a big filter to fill every time it sits. Also oil pressure would be slightly low, as drain is a "leak" . Plus hard to set correct oil level.

Can either replace housing, or steal new arm from new housing. I also saw where someone had permanently plugged hole......would have to suck out housing when changing oil then.The rubber stopper still felt fairly flexible,so I bent tabs on spring lever and took it out. Cleaned good with brake clean and then glued rubber back on with 3bond.So far so good.
 
#9 ·
Looking at pic, I think what happens, is the filter(that is pressing down on end of spring arm/little rubber nub)when tightening/loosening tears off that nub(as filter turns) and then stopper falls off. 3bond is strong stuff, so I'll bet it holds up.I'll keep eye on it when I change oil.
 
#11 ·
Wondering which "3-bond" you used to glue the seal back on? And is it still on? I'm thinking of just putting it back in the base over the hole at each change, don't know if it will release the oil or not, but should keep the hole plugged in the mean time. . . I didn't this time, because I was still trying to figure out what 'it' was and had to button the car back up after the oil change. How hard is it to get the "spring" out?
 
#15 ·
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The rubber was hard as a rock. It broke off at about 130k miles. I placed it over the hole before putting the filter in for 2 oil changes before fixing it.

I already had the intake off doing the READ system and coolant hoses. I used the screw driver to bend some of the tabs up then used the the 2 picks to shimmy the spring up off the post.
 
#16 · (Edited)
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That's a silicone tapered plug. They use them to plug holes for painting or other coating processes. I grabbed a bunch years ago at work.
I used the existing flat end of the plug for the sealing side since there no way you can cut this material and get a flat face at home.
I believe that is a 4-40 screw. I drilled and tapped it but there were no visible hole or threads. I probably could have just pierced a hole with a pick and the screw would have started which is basically what iI did drilling it. A small wood screw would have been better to use.

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You don't want it to be tight. The disk needs to be floppy to sit flat to the housing. I whittled away the backside to get some taper like the original.

Those are artificial heart valves to the left. My dad machined small stuff and I machine big stuff so I had to dig through his box for tiny screws.
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Tested for 3 days ( READ system took me 3 weeks!) Never realized the filter will sick in there when you push it all the way done. I always pushed the filter on the cap first.
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I made a Lexan inspection plate to simulate the filter to make sure I was getting compression on the disk from the spring. The filter will bottom out on the 3 risers in the housing.

The filter never contacts the what would have been the top nub of the disk plug which some where thinking why it come off. I think it just gets too hard and breaks off.

This was done half way into an oil change cycle so I'll have another 3k miles before checking it out. From what I was reading silicone is great for just about anything. It can handle the temps and just about any fluid. With the scrap piece I have left over I may try to whittle away a pronged nub like the original piece. I only fear now is the screw coming loose and going down the small drain hole.
 
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