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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is due for a oil change. I've never had a car with a cartridge filter. Does it differ any then a your "normal " car? Do I need to use the tool to take off the filter or can I use the band type filter wrench? Or a different tool that is more available at the local auto store?

Thanks!
Matt
 

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I've used a band type but it's hard to get in there, and I eventually caved and bought the right tool. I was always worried about cracking it, so much that I bought a spare just in case.
 

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With the cartridge type, make sure you seat the filter in the bottom correctly before screwing it back on. There is an o ring on the canister, make sure that is replaced or not creaked.
 

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What do you guys recommend for oil? I've always had the oil changes done at the dealership, but I just moved and the closest one if an hour away. My car has 145,xxx and has never run synthetic that I know of.

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What do you guys recommend for oil? I've always had the oil changes done at the dealership, but I just moved and the closest one if an hour away. My car has 145,xxx and has never run synthetic that I know of.

Thanks
I recommend full synthetic. Personally I don't care what brand it is and even though your car says it wants Castrol, I doubt it really cares what brand you use either. And from now on, don't go past 5K between changes. Your PCV will thank you and you'll appreciate not spending $400 to replace it too frequently.
 

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My car is due for a oil change. I've never had a car with a cartridge filter. Does it differ any then a your "normal " car? Do I need to use the tool to take off the filter or can I use the band type filter wrench? Or a different tool that is more available at the local auto store?

Thanks!
Matt
I agree with all the above, another tip I always follow is to pre fill the cup with the filter securely fitted with oil a friend said when the starting it wit a dry filter may cause damage to the turbo during the time it takes to filter through properly, could be an old housewifes tale but I always do it. And 25Nm when tightening it should prob. Be Enough also make sure the O-ring doesn't get caught .while twisting do as much by hand as possible. Good luck


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you all for your replies. Is the drain plug and filter pretty accessible? I am used to older cars and trucks where everything is out in the open.
 

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Very easy to get at the plug and filter. Only problem might be ground clearance. I do mine on ramps.
As for oil, Walmart and Home Depot have Mobile 1 at $25 for a 5 quart jug. Also thru Oct there is a M1 rebate of $15.
 

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There may be a splash shield in place under the car. It's a big piece of black plastic held in by 5 or 6 12 mm bolts. Once you remove that everything is very easily accessible.
 

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I recommend full synthetic. Personally I don't care what brand it is and even though your car says it wants Castrol, I doubt it really cares what brand you use either. And from now on, don't go past 5K between changes. Your PCV will thank you and you'll appreciate not spending $400 to replace it too frequently.
What is everyone running for weight. I see a lot are running 5W-40 and 5W-30, but I also see some 0W. FYI I live in New England.
 

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I run 5W-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
 

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Very easy to get at the plug and filter. Only problem might be ground clearance. I do mine on ramps.
As for oil, Walmart and Home Depot have Mobile 1 at $25 for a 5 quart jug. Also thru Oct there is a M1 rebate of $15.
Remember, you need almost 6 (SIX) quarts of engine oil, so you'll either have to buy an expensive single or have lots left over for the next oil change.
 

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What is everyone running for weight. I see a lot are running 5W-40 and 5W-30, but I also see some 0W. FYI I live in New England.
5W30 even out here in the hot and dry. And my PCV looked spectacular at 130K.
 

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The links to the tool have already been posted.
I run Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10-40 and change it every 10K miles. I did the PCV at 110K miles and it was clean, but I think that's because the previous owner had an 80 mile round-trip commute and was insane (changed oil every 3K miles!).
After oil analysis, my oil is perfectly fine and good for more than 10K, but given turbo and PCV, I think 10K is enough. :D
 

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First Oil Change

You need this tool or similar.

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-86-M...8&sr=8-1&keywords=volvo+s60+oil+filter+wrench

They should have something available at the parts store but not always.

Band type will most likely not work and may damage the cartridge.

You will also need a new crush washer for the drain plug.
Stuck at home, changing oil for the first time, always had it changed at the dealer. I could not get the filter off, none of my oil filter wrench worked. I ordered a 86mm 16 flutes wrench off Ebay which took 3 weeks to deliver. The proper oil filter wrench made it easy to remove the oil filter.
Now since it had been 3 weeks since the oil was drained, I did not remembering seeing a washer on the oil drain plug. Of course, none of the oil drain plug washers I have at home fits the current plug. As best as I can tell, the dealer did not use a washer on the last oil change. Is it possible that the washer is stuck on the hole or is one not necessary? I already installed the drain plug and it felt tight but I have not filled it with any oil.
 

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volvo # 977751. Copper or Aluminum washer will work. Even a plastic/vinyl type would suffice, but Aluminum is best IMO. They will sometimes stick to the pan and a little pick you can get it off. And yes a washer is required. Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time.
 
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