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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone else had this issue of the obx dp not sitting exactly flush on the turbo. I thought I had a manifold leak until I ripped all that apart and replaced the gaskets. Now it's still making that annoying exhaust leak noise. I used a oem gasket for the dp and I climbed under there today and see that it is for sure the dp. The bottom bolt is as tight as I can get it and there is still a gap between the turbo and the flange on the dp. I even tried loosening the top bolts and tightening the bottom but still a gap between the two.
 

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I've got a $100 bill that says your flange is no longer flat.

The OBX (and really any) down pipe flanges can warp and it will do exactly what you have pictured. Its all the way on, but its not sitting flat/true against the the turbo outlet. Hell I've even seen cast turbo manifolds warp like this.

The cheapest fix is taking it off, and then running the entire flange over a very large belt sander to slowly grind down some of the flange until it is flat/true again. By big, I mean one of the floor standing units that's massive, not a small portable belt sander.

You can also cut off the warped flange and have a new/better one welded on.

The most expensive fix is taking it off and buying a new down pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Flange on the dp warped or something like that lol?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see. I figured it was warped. I'll try the sanding thing first and see what I can do. I have one of those sanders in one of my classes and I'm sure my professor won't mind me using it. Appreciate it man
 

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Use two gaskets sandwiched together and crank it tight
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If I tighten it anymore I'll snap the stud. Idk If even 2 would fill that gap haha
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I sold my oe dp... haha I may have a shop weld a new flange on
 

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CUT oem flange off and use that
This is what my local indy had to do for mine. I had the exact same problem and initially tightened all the bolts down evenly. I noticed a major exhaust leak a day or two later and when I took it to the shop, the top bolt had broken. Note, this had NOT happened when I tightened them down, but after. They ended up doing just this, cutting off the flanges of the OBX and OEM and swapping them. Along with a whole bunch of RTV, it worked.
 

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hey I was just wondering, how come I only read about fitment issues with OBX and not other downpipes?
 

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Because the other downpipes don't cost $150.
 

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hey I was just wondering, how come I only read about fitment issues with OBX and not other downpipes?
Because other downpipes are too expensive for anyone to buy.
 

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I have this same issue right now on my 850 and the OBX DP. I was going to take it off and open up the holes a little and have the flange milled/ground down so that I know for sure I have a flat mating surface. And yes, other DP's are freaking expensive. I could buy two complete OBX systems for less than the price of some of the others. Oh well, you get what you pay for!
 

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just seems like you'd be spending the money to get the OBX to fit right instead of getting one that just works.

but I'll agree the price of the Elevate downpipe is downright stupid.
 

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just seems like you'd be spending the money to get the OBX to fit right instead of getting one that just works.

but I'll agree the price of the Elevate downpipe is downright stupid.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that an overwhelming majority have not encountered any issues with OBX dps...
 

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wish I could believe that but I seem to read about it on a lot of sites.
 

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The OBX has the pipe pushed in to flush or almost flush. The OE pipe has the pipe set back 4mm or so to allow for the flange projection on the turbo to fit into it. The OBX is setting on top of that projection and likely isn't touching gasket. I used 4gaskets and it seals but when I have the turbo off at some point I will grind off the projection on the turbo.
 

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wish I could believe that but I seem to read about it on a lot of sites.
Mine rubs slightly on the heat shield but no fitment issues other than that. Very satisfied.

It takes no additional money to get it to fit right in most cases. I've seen it noted that if you have heat shield rubbing issues with the OBX pipe, you can just loosen the bolts up and push on the pipe with your feet to get it off the heat shield and then tighten it back up and it'll sit in there a little better.

It's not perfect but at a fraction of the price compared to other DPs, it's totally worth it in my opinion.
 
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