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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I was wondering if anyone here on the forum has tried any of the performance chip modules to boost hp on their s40 or v40 wagons?

My car a v40 is well taken care of only thing is I could really use a few little more hp even 10 more on the takeoff or hwy.

Im thinking the one that just plugs into the OBD II port would be easiest. Im not a mechanic either!

Heres the website that sells the performance boosters: http://www.performancechiptuning.com/Volvo/S40/

Any experiences with these would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those kind of things never work. If you want more power, get a Stage 1 ECU tune.
Well my question has anyone purchased one and tried it.

If you have not used one are you going on what you read?

Ive read mixed information and just wanted some more insight and ECU tune is quite expensive compared to this and I am not in need of more than a tad more hp.

Would be nice to hear someone else chime in....

In any case where would I get a reliable Stage 1 ECU tuned? Im on the west coast of the US.
 

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These kinds of plug in power "chips" are telling the car is can make more power in one or two areas. But the car is still responding to what the ECU tells it to do based on it's readings from various sensors. Volvos are a lot more sophisticated than Hondas, so you'll be lucky to notice any real improvement with an OBDII plug in. The numbers advertised by those chips are under ideal conditions on cars that are most accepting of the improvement. Just like how many intake companies will advertise +20hp, that's +20hp at the crank from a car that added the intake and then had a custom tune to accommodate it. Almost no one will see those kinds of improvements from a slapped on cone filter.
The butt dyno often lies based on how light you make your wallet.

A real tune changes the parameters of the numerous electronic components within the car by reprogramming ECU. Cars are limited by their ECU to accommodate various types of gas. A real stage 1 tune will basically tell your car to run on a certain type of gas and will give maximum efficiency. Even a stage 1 tune provides a very noticeable difference.
A stage 2 tune will apply for a car with an upgrade intake, exhaust, etc. There are other tune stages and other parts you can bolt on, each tune maximizing the potential with the better flowing parts.

Also, most of the time you will notice improved MPGs with upgraded parts and tunes. This is because the car is running more efficiently and has smoother flowing parts. Though, most people will never notice this because it's hard not to lay on the throttle and enjoy the power. Just a perk to paying a bit more though.

Tunes are expensive because they make a difference on the dyno. You get what you pay for with car parts and my best advice is to never take the cheap route.

The fact that you have a Nedcar means there are a lot of bolt on parts that you can add with no need for a tune; lots of opportunity for power. Heck, you could even put on a larger turbo.
If you only want +10whp, consider upgrading the downpipe and your exhaust. Better flow out the back allows the turbo to spool up faster.

If you want more power on the real cheap end, replace/clean all your stock parts. Clean out the throttle body, fresh spark plugs set to the correct gap, clean air filter, clean MAF. All these things will probably find you another 10hp just from the age of your car. Ditch unnecessary weight such as the spare tire. Also make sure all your fluids are fresh and the best fluids you can buy based on your car's mileage.

Main tune options:

ARD (not the best for reliability on modern cars, but they did great things for the P80s) is a good source for a tune.
Also check out what iPd has coming to the table soon, with their new handheld tuner.
Elevate mainly focuses on the modern cars, but their connection with Autotech Sweden may be useful.
Shark is another option on the modern cars, but they may be able to help out.

But as I said, with a Nedcar, there's a lot more you can do with bolt ons than software.
 

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Step 1, install a boost gauge.
Step 2, verify you're making full boost (oem should be around 7.5psi)
Step 3, K&N panel filter
Step 4, exhaust (a full 3" for best flow and low EGT. 2.5" cat back at least)
Step 4.5 only applies to 00' models (upgrade from stock injectors to 420cc from an 01')
Step 5, manual boost controller and set to 15psi (assuming this is an 01'+, if not see step 4.5)

Congratulations, you now make 200whp! 25% more power for less than $500!
 

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Step 1, install a boost gauge.
Step 2, verify you're making full boost (oem should be around 7.5psi)
Step 3, K&N panel filter
Step 4, exhaust (a full 3" for best flow and low EGT. 2.5" cat back at least)
Step 5, manual boost controller and set to 15psi.

Congratulations, you now make 200whp! 25% more power for less than $500!
It makes me sad how complicated these "modern" cars have become...

By the way, you should join us for our monthly Sonic Burger and Junk Yard meets! http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...Volvo-lovers&p=2590534&viewfull=1#post2590534
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the information Really appreciate all the details with regards to modifications.

Ive started to do the reg maintenance i.e. spark plugs etc and will replace the original catalytic converter with a magna flow(for some reason going up I smell a sulfur like smell). Then Ill consider the other mods.

One last thing. How do I find a mechanic that can test the boost? Will a Volvo shop be able to do this?
 

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One last thing. How do I find a mechanic that can test the boost? Will a Volvo shop be able to do this?
Get a boost gauge. They run as cheap as $30 for a quality gauge, or spend a little extra for something with programming and different back light colors.

I would not advise doing any performance modifications to a turbo car without having a boost gauge to monitor things. Great tool for quickly detecting over boost or vacuum leaks that you might not be aware of.
 

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Step 1, install a boost gauge.
Step 2, verify you're making full boost (oem should be around 7.5psi)
Step 3, K&N panel filter
Step 4, exhaust (a full 3" for best flow and low EGT. 2.5" cat back at least)
Step 4.5 only applies to 00' models (upgrade from stock injectors to 420cc from an 01')
Step 5, manual boost controller and set to 15psi (assuming this is an 01'+, if not see step 4.5)

Congratulations, you now make 200whp! 25% more power for less than $500!
id like to an exhaust on my 2003 s40 turbo but i dont want it to loud where is a good place to buy a set up and id like to get the k&n you spoke of as well and a boost gauge too where does that hook up to ?
 

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id like to an exhaust on my 2003 s40 turbo but i dont want it to loud where is a good place to buy a set up and id like to get the k&n you spoke of as well and a boost gauge too where does that hook up to ?
I have an 03 s40 as well, the factory exhaust is already 2.5" and an upgrade catback from eurosport tuning is 2.5" as well. I just did a rear muffler delete and cat delete and going to replace the mid muffler with a better flowing muffler like a Flowmaster. With just the rear muffler and cat delete the sound has woken up a little but is not loud by any means. I can hear it but my turbo is still louder than the exhaust. I do have a k&n panel filter as well so that may contribute to the engine noise. Boost guage goes in the vac line from intake to turbo.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I have an 03 s40 as well, the factory exhaust is already 2.5" and an upgrade catback from eurosport tuning is 2.5" as well. I just did a rear muffler delete and cat delete and going to replace the mid muffler with a better flowing muffler like a Flowmaster. With just the rear muffler and cat delete the sound has woken up a little but is not loud by any means. I can hear it but my turbo is still louder than the exhaust. I do have a k&n panel filter as well so that may contribute to the engine noise. Boost guage goes in the vac line from intake to turbo.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
where did you get your exhaust work done or where to buy it ? you have any pictures or videos id like to see it and hear it ???
 

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I purchased the pipe from my work, I work at a parts store, and did the work myself. I can try to get a video of the sound for you

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I wouldn't splice the wastegate for a boost gauge. You don't really want interference there. Rather splice the line from the vacuum tree to the bypass valve.

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Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 

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All the silicone is do88. Radiator full kit, intercooler full kit, and turbo inlet pipe. Intake is a K&N Apollo.

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