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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the cost to replace a front axle on these things? I noticed my CV boot on the left axle is seaping something, and have a very slight rubbing sound/sensation when turning over the last week or so.<p>I know we can get the whole unit, from inner to outer all packed sealed and ready to install...how hard of a job is this?<p>Thanks, as always.<p>Edit: It's a front axle.
 

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call DWHV or you can try Napa if you so dare. <p>I have gotten axles from both non OEM and the napa one was actually better.
 

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Re: Not to happy... (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the cost to replace a front axle on these things? I noticed my CV boot on the left axle is seaping something, and have a very slight rubbing sound/sensation when turning over the last week or so.<p>I know we can get the whole unit, from inner to outer all packed sealed and ready to install...how hard of a job is this?<p>Thanks, as always.<p>Edit: It's a front axle.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>The R with 240,000 miles did his quickly for not very much money. I will check on what he paid, and I'm pretty sure he got it from BVV.
 

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have fun getting the left axle out of the transmission!<p>plus you have to figure in 2 quarts of oil, and 2 new crush washer. you just have to take off the wheel, remove the caliper, take off the knuckle and pull the axle out, or more like bust it out. Not to bad if you can get that axle out in a decent amount of time.<p>-Colin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (racecarcolin)

Thanks. I didn't assume this to be an easy job, and I dread the copious amount of fluid loss from it.<p>What makes it so hard to get out? Don't the crush washers come with the axle, or at least should be offered by the dealer selling me the part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (T5 for Life)

Anybody else have info or experience with replacing a front axle? Anyone?
 

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Re: (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody else have info or experience with replacing a front axle? Anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I pulled mine, twice, when doing the turbo swaps. It seemed really easy at the time. I think it is?
 

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Re: (Edogg218)

Tony bring it over some Saturday will put it on the lift and start taking things apart. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (baxteR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>baxteR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tony bring it over some Saturday will put it on the lift and start taking things apart. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Gee bax, that's sounds swell. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> LOL <p>thanks for the info eDogg
 

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Re: (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gee bax, that's sounds swell. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> LOL <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Good that's how we learn. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (baxteR)

Make sure the leak is from the CV joint and not something above it <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (S60R1)

I was hoping it was from something above it. Unfortunately, it's not. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> it's the very bottom of the boot, over a small area.
 

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Re: (T5 for Life)

I replaced mine from tascavolvoparts.com and it was the cheapest by far. My front right axle after shipping (with the core charge) was $409 total.<p>This part is OEM. I orginally bought something from the local autoparts store for $125 shipped and it was the wrong part even though they said it would work.<p>Also, I didn't lose any fluid when I replaced mine so not sure what to say after adding fluid.<p>Of course that doesn't include labor...<p>Good luck!
 

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Re: (pie_ya)

How difficult was it to do?
 

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Re: Not to happy... (T5 for Life)

<br>BTW<br>It's not TOO happy
 

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Re: (baxteR)

No need to add fluid and I'm not sure why someone suggested crush rings.<br>You also don't need to remove the knuckle.<br>Its a fairly easy job if everything comes apart smoothly.<p>Its best to have air tools, a nice big pry bar and a good heavy hammer.<br>Take off the wheel.<br>Unbolt sway bar endlink from strut.<br>Unbolt strut from knuckle.<br>Unbolt tie rod end from knuckle.<br>Remove axle bolt and push axle out the backside of the knuckle. This may require some force and the pry bar may come in handy.<p>Once the outer axle is free from the knuckle, use the large pry bar to pop the axle out of the trans. I like to get my pry bar right up between the inner axle cv joint and the trans and with a quick and powerful pull of my pry bar, the axle pops out. Note, I usually bungee cord tie the axle to the spring so it doesn't launch across the shop.<p>Whatever you do, do not pull or beat the axle in or out by just using the outer cv joint as a slide hammer. You will damage the axle.<p>Replacing the leaking boot is easy if you have the right tools. <br>You'll need a brass drift or brass hammer and the special clamp crimpers, I forget their actual name, and a vise.<p>Put axle in vise with outer CV pointed down at say 30 degree angle. Cut the old clamps of with big side cutters or pry off with some cheapy screwdriver.<br>Cut the boot off. I always wear latex gloves as the grease is very messy.<br>Once the boot is off use a brass drift or hammer and knock the outer CV joint off the axle. Usually take a good beating. Be sure to hit it just above the splines on the shaft. Anywhere around that boss is ok as there is a blind clip onside the cv joint on the splined shaft.<p>Then you can clean and repack the cv joint using the supplied grease that came with the boot. If you get the Volvo kit, the black grease goes in the outer and the yellow goop goes in the inner. If replacing both be sure to remove and install the inner boot and clamps before putting the outer boot and clamps on. <p>Use the special pliers to clamp the boots shut and just put it all back together in reverse order.<p>IIRC it pays 1.5 hrs to do this. <br>Have fun. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Just a thought but usually if you have to ask if its easy for you to do, it probably isn't <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Not to happy... (JRL)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JRL</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>BTW<br>It's not TOO happy</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I was waiting for you. I can'd edit the title of the post or I would have. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Thanks for the info. I didn't ask if it was "easy", I asked what kind of job it was. Nothing on these cars is easy. I've rebuilt rear axles (Ford 9") and changes clutches and drivetrains before, all RWD. So I figured I'd ask what this was like. I appreciate the concern though.
 

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Only reaso you might need some tranny fluid depends if you put your car up on jacks then some will come out the tranny when removing the axle . <p>If you do it on a lift you shouldnt have any leak out. <p>? less then a hr to do if not quicker <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Not to happy... (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Thanks for the info. I didn't ask if it was "easy", I asked what kind of job it was. Nothing on these cars is easy. I've rebuilt rear axles (Ford 9") and changes clutches and drivetrains before, all RWD. So I figured I'd ask what this was like. I appreciate the concern though.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>If everything comes apart as if it was just put together, then it may be easy or worth your time to enjoy working on your car and saving a few bucks. Sometimes you do get one that almost seems to take itself apart and nothing stops the evenflow. <p>My point was speaking from experience that whenever it is mentioned that something is easy, it ends up being a PITA. Kinda like the old saying "break a leg". Well, "break a bolt...loose that is"<p>So I will say then its hard <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: Not to happy... (Oceans60R)

That's been my experience too. What's supposed to take 1/2 hour can take 4 hours and 3 trips to the auto parts store. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I do appreciate the info, and was never afraid to get my hands dirty or take something apart. Like I said, replace a front axle is something I've never done, so I was curious if it was something I'd like to try.
 
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