SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Started her last night after three month hiatus due to summer heat. Took a minute to start but she ran and warmed up. Stopped her then went in. This morning I get lights, horn, radio but nothing from the ignition. I do not get lights and no attempt to crank. The ignition switch seems different now. Could it be the switch? It's the only thing that makes sense since I do not get any lights coming on the cluster as I make my way through to the start position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Looks like the key pulls out and the ignition locks while it is still in the II position.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
Nowhere in your other threads can I find the year of your 142E.

Your pics show the ignition switch on the steering column. This switch is replaceable.

First check all connections at the battery, fuses, grounds, etc. especially the major grounds for the battery and starter.

Loosen each fastener then re-tighten.

Confirm that the battery is in good condition.

With everything "OFF" turn the ignition switch to "ON" and carefully use a jumper wire to energize the starter.

This may (temporarily) solve the problem as the starter solenoid may be failing.

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
George,

It's a 1971 142e. The thing is, the ignition switch when the key comes out and the ignition locks is in the #2 position. I've checked the battery. Everything works. Even a low battery would give me some type of clicking or power to the cluster. I think the issue is that the internals in the housing where the tumblers are have it stuck in a position where it cannot move forward enough to power on the cluster and eventually start. I can take a picture if need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As you can see, the position that the key is in is the position the switch is at when I insert the key, and the ignition locks in the II position. It should let me go back to I or even acc position but no, just II and III are available. I think it has twisted somehow so now the switch doesn't allow for enough travel to engage the power in the column and start. That's my diagnosis. Just not sure if this is a repair or replace.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,844 Posts
picked up some fenders from someone on the ipd classifieds. he also had an ignition switch with key for sale from '74 142. check the 140 series parts ads on ipd classifieds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
picked up some fenders from someone on the ipd classifieds. he also had an ignition switch with key for sale from '74 142. check the 140 series parts ads on ipd classifieds.
I thought that the '74 had the different interior and steering column. Are the ignition switches the same across all 140's?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
The ignition 'switch' is on the back side of the ignition key lock assembly. It is removable from the lock assembly. There are 4 wire colors on the switch assembly, red which should have +12v on it all the time (connection to battery), yellow which gets 12 v when the switch is in the run or the start position, blue/yel which gets 12v when the switch is in the start position (this goes to the starter solenoid) and green which I think gets 12 v in the accessory and run position and maybe the start position.

Normally I would say that the switch part has worn out and you need to replace it; however, from your description, perhaps the locking cylinder mechanism is broken and is no longer turning the switch mechanism. The switch portion is easily removable - 2 screws I seem to recall. Pull the switch off and you can see the part that sticks out of the back of the lock cylinder and engages the switch mechanism. Rotate your key and see if that part is rotating. If it isn't then your lock cylinder is damaged. Somebody else will have to provide guidance on how to fix that. If the lock cylinder mechanism appears to be OK, then perhaps the switch is broken. You could do a test of the switch while it is unscrewed from the back of the lock mechanism. My recommended method of testing would be to disconnect the switch and on a workbench, test the operation of the contacts with a multimeter; however, you could do an insitu test. With the switch removed from the lock cylinder but still wired in, you could use a screwdriver to rotate the switch mechanism and if it is working, you could power up your dash lights and should be able to engage the starter motor. Obviously, be careful with the latter approach as the switch is just hanging by the wires and things could go badly if you shorted the wiring to the steering column. Also, with the switch dismounted, it would be really easy to steal the car if the steering column lock is broken.

Update:
In retrospect, I am now uncertain as to whether there is a part that sticks out of the key mechanism and engages the switch or whether the part sticks out of the switch mechanism and engages the key mechanism. Its been a year since I wired my switch back up and I didn't pay that much attention to those details. It does not really change anything and I am sure you will be able to figure out how to check everything out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The ignition 'switch' is on the back side of the ignition key lock assembly. It is removable from the lock assembly. There are 4 wire colors on the switch assembly, red which should have +12v on it all the time (connection to battery), yellow which gets 12 v when the switch is in the run or the start position, blue/yel which gets 12v when the switch is in the start position (this goes to the starter solenoid) and green which I think gets 12 v in the accessory and run position and maybe the start position.

Normally I would say that the switch part has worn out and you need to replace it; however, from your description, perhaps the locking cylinder mechanism is broken and is no longer turning the switch mechanism. The switch portion is easily removable - 2 screws I seem to recall. Pull the switch off and you can see the part that sticks out of the back of the lock cylinder and engages the switch mechanism. Rotate your key and see if that part is rotating. If it isn't then your lock cylinder is damaged. Somebody else will have to provide guidance on how to fix that. If the lock cylinder mechanism appears to be OK, then perhaps the switch is broken. You could do a test of the switch while it is unscrewed from the back of the lock mechanism. My recommended method of testing would be to disconnect the switch and on a workbench, test the operation of the contacts with a multimeter; however, you could do an insitu test. With the switch removed from the lock cylinder but still wired in, you could use a screwdriver to rotate the switch mechanism and if it is working, you could power up your dash lights and should be able to engage the starter motor. Obviously, be careful with the latter approach as the switch is just hanging by the wires and things could go badly if you shorted the wiring to the steering column. Also, with the switch dismounted, it would be really easy to steal the car if the steering column lock is broken.

Update:
In retrospect, I am now uncertain as to whether there is a part that sticks out of the key mechanism and engages the switch or whether the part sticks out of the switch mechanism and engages the key mechanism. Its been a year since I wired my switch back up and I didn't pay that much attention to those details. It does not really change anything and I am sure you will be able to figure out how to check everything out!
What I did was take the covers off (both top and bottom) and then as you described two screws which allowed me to remove the switch on the back of the housing. There is a small metal shaft protruding with a small retaining ring I think. I did confirm that it turns as I turn the key however it will move no further back then position II.. I can go forward one position to start which is III but I cannot go backwards to position I (off) or position 0 (acc). But the shaft still moves with the key movement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I confirmed with a screwdriver that the switch is good. The dash lights power and fuel pump initializes when I rotate it manually with a screwdriver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
I confirmed with a screwdriver that the switch is good. The dash lights power and fuel pump initializes when I rotate it manually with a screwdriver.
That is good and bad! The electrics are not a problem which is good, Unfortunately, I think the key lock mechanism is much more of a hassle to fix!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is good and bad! The electrics are not a problem which is good, Unfortunately, I think the key lock mechanism is much more of a hassle to fix!
What does it entail? A new locking mechanism or a repair to the existing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
What does it entail? A new locking mechanism or a repair to the existing?
I am thinking that it is replace rather than repair as I don't recall seeing any screws that would allow you access to pull it apart. Maybe if you inspect it closely you can figure out a way to get it apart.

The lock appears to be still in production from Volvo. As far as I can determine, part # 682568 if you have a BW35 transmission, 682569 if standard transmission.

http://www.irollparts.com/oe-volvo/682569

Good luck with it. I have found that even though these discount vendors list vintage Volvo parts, they tend to be virtual rather than real!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks like I will have to hunt for a used one. I'm not able to find repair instructions anywhere.

I am thinking that it is replace rather than repair as I don't recall seeing any screws that would allow you access to pull it apart. Maybe if you inspect it closely you can figure out a way to get it apart.

The lock appears to be still in production from Volvo. As far as I can determine, part # 682568 if you have a BW35 transmission, 682569 if standard transmission.

http://www.irollparts.com/oe-volvo/682569

Good luck with it. I have found that even though these discount vendors list vintage Volvo parts, they tend to be virtual rather than real!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
The irollparts site is fake.

George Dill
Excellent - a fake website selling virtual parts! There is another Volvo discounter called Tasca Parts that claims to have 682569. Are they also fake?

Scandcar lists a steering column lock for the 140; but, it is a different part number (and a lot more expensive). You could try contacting them to see if it works for your model year. Scandcar is a real and reliable vendor, although shipping can make their parts pricey.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,579 Posts
Tasca is legit, but they do list parts they don't carry and can't get. OTOH, I have gotten a few parts from them I didn't think existed anymore.
 
1 - 20 of 66 Posts
Top