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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, thank you, this forum has been extremely valuable regarding research and ultimate purchase of my 2006 Volvo V70 2.5T FWD back in November 2017. I have read various discussions here and now want to look at some upgrades/mods. I am at best a novice in the garage but youtube has been my friend in the past. This is actually my fourth Volvo since 2006… previous included 2000 S70, 2012 S60 and 2011 C70.

Here is the background of the car (according to Carfax and service history provided by dealership):
FL for initial 14K miles then sold in 2010 and resided in SC until 105K. In 2017 I purchased the car then transported it to NC.

While in SC, regular service was performed at a Volvo dealership.
Highlights of service/repairs include:
36K Front Brake Pads
43K Battery
57K Fuel Pressure Sensor
71K OEM Spark Plugs
79K BG Transmission Fluid Service
81K MAF Sensor; Fresh Air Pipe
87K Front Rotors & Pads; BG Steering & Brake Fluid Flush
93K Electrical Cooling Fan
99K PCV Breather System
101K Timing Belt; Water Pump

Pre Sale Dealership Service:
105K Front Control Arms and Strut Top Bushings; Rear Rotors & Pads; Lower Torque Rod

Currently, the car has 125K miles and outside of oil changes every 5K miles I recently changed the plugs with NGK Iridium (6418). I own a DICE/VIDA unit.

On my list (I am $ conscious and in no rush) with the order I kinda envision, at least top 3... I invite your thoughts along the way:

1. IPD Anti-Sway Bar Kit - waiting for a sale or even used
2. Transmission Fluid Flush
3. Hilton Stage 1 Tune w/ Torque Limiter Delete
4. Cat Back Performance Exhaust (I’ve read about drone, gurgling, loud, etc. so I’m leaning towards European sound standards but not definite) have looked at Mototec and Simons. If appropriate, I would consider resonator delete w/upgraded muffler.
5. Do88 Intercooler - potentially a transmission cooler at the same time
6. Downpipe - I haven’t done much research yet
7. Upgraded Brakes, when needed - I haven’t done much research yet
8. Bilstein Touring Struts/Shocks - when needed

Of note, I did correspond with a local indy shop and their advice is that modifying components is likely to place additional stress on unchanged components... potentially leading to premature failure of the unchanged components.

Intuitively, the advice makes sense to me. So, if I begin this journey, is this the can of worms I threaten to open since I see so many posts highlighting how expensive repairs are on these cars?


Thanks
 

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First off, thank you, this forum has been extremely valuable regarding research and ultimate purchase of my 2006 Volvo V70 2.5T FWD back in November 2017. I have read various discussions here and now want to look at some upgrades/mods. I am at best a novice in the garage but youtube has been my friend in the past. This is actually my fourth Volvo since 2006… previous included 2000 S70, 2012 S60 and 2011 C70.

Here is the background of the car (according to Carfax and service history provided by dealership):
FL for initial 14K miles then sold in 2010 and resided in SC until 105K. In 2017 I purchased the car then transported it to NC.

While in SC, regular service was performed at a Volvo dealership.
Highlights of service/repairs include:
36K Front Brake Pads
43K Battery
57K Fuel Pressure Sensor
71K OEM Spark Plugs
79K BG Transmission Fluid Service
81K MAF Sensor; Fresh Air Pipe
87K Front Rotors & Pads; BG Steering & Brake Fluid Flush
93K Electrical Cooling Fan
99K PCV Breather System
101K Timing Belt; Water Pump

Pre Sale Dealership Service:
105K Front Control Arms and Strut Top Bushings; Rear Rotors & Pads; Lower Torque Rod

Currently, the car has 125K miles and outside of oil changes every 5K miles I recently changed the plugs with NGK Iridium (6418). I own a DICE/VIDA unit.

On my list (I am $ conscious and in no rush) with the order I kinda envision, at least top 3... I invite your thoughts along the way:

1. IPD Anti-Sway Bar Kit - waiting for a sale or even used
2. Transmission Fluid Flush
3. Hilton Stage 1 Tune w/ Torque Limiter Delete
4. Cat Back Performance Exhaust (I've read about drone, gurgling, loud, etc. so I'm leaning towards European sound standards but not definite) have looked at Mototec and Simons. If appropriate, I would consider resonator delete w/upgraded muffler.
5. Do88 Intercooler - potentially a transmission cooler at the same time
6. Downpipe - I haven't done much research yet
7. Upgraded Brakes, when needed - I haven't done much research yet
8. Bilstein Touring Struts/Shocks - when needed

Of note, I did correspond with a local indy shop and their advice is that modifying components is likely to place additional stress on unchanged components... potentially leading to premature failure of the unchanged components.

Intuitively, the advice makes sense to me. So, if I begin this journey, is this the can of worms I threaten to open since I see so many posts highlighting how expensive repairs are on these cars?

Thanks
The conventional wisdom is that you need to budget about $1500-2000 per year for maintenance if a shop is doing it. It could be as low as $750/year if you have OBD-II or VIDA, and willing to do "the easy stuff". Luck is also a factor.
 

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The conventional wisdom is that you need to budget about $1500-2000 per year for maintenance if a shop is doing it. It could be as low as $750/year if you have OBD-II or VIDA, and willing to do "the easy stuff". Luck is also a factor.
Whoa there..

$1500-$2000 a year for a maintenance budget is out of this world.

Every car is different but those numbers are quite high. I can't provide an average without seeing repair data but having owned a few P2 wagons I feel confident that you're not looking at that kind of bill.

pbierre is correct that a VIDA/DICE unit will save you money if you're up to working on your own car. It's a good investment. Lots of money can be saved just by doing standard wear items yourself such as brakes, fluid changes etc.

Initially to bring a 10+ year old well driven car up to a good stage you could be looking at a few grand but that cost doesn't continue year to year. Once you knock out most long-term wear items like seals, suspensions etc you should be good to coast along with a relatively low budget for maintenance.

Of course things can go wrong during ownership but it's difficult to really plan for it. I don't really budget my vehicle repairs but rather they come out of a fleet maintenance budget. I've gone years without using half of it and I've also gone years going over by double.

This year for me I'm redoing all sorts of stuff on my older wagons so I'm looking at a bill that could reach $3500. However one older wagon has cost me about $120 a year and the other approximately $800 a year.
 

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I mean every older car is going to have issues. I have an 03 XC70 and yeah it has had its issues but I think it’s better than owning a new car with a steady payment of $300+ with insurance. I have owned a lot of older used vehicles and once I discovered Volvo I will never go with a different manufacturer. These cars keep looking great! They never rust! While other manufacturers the with cars the same age as mine look terrible and are rust buckets.


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I mean every older car is going to have issues. I have an 03 XC70 and yeah it has had its issues but I think it's better than owning a new car with a steady payment of $300+ with insurance. I have owned a lot of older used vehicles and once I discovered Volvo I will never go with a different manufacturer. These cars keep looking great! They never rust! While other manufacturers the with cars the same age as mine look terrible and are rust buckets.

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Indeed.

For the OP: stay away from performance mods. Don't increase pressure on the engine or stress one the drive train. Use the car for what it was meant to be.

Mods will increase cost and will also make maintaining the car more difficult. If you're a mechanically inclined person and have the skills to back it up you'll manage. If not, you may quickly drown in frustration.
 

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Brakes: xc90 sourced 308mm rear and 316 mm front are nice and grippy but still allow you to keep basic wheels.

Swaybar: front bar on these cars is already pretty big so just do a rear bar upgrade from a s60 t5. Cheap new or used.

Suspension: stock is actually really good. However I would suggest Delrin subframe bushings that masked such a difference in terms of handling and keeping alignment.

Performance stuff: a downpipe really helps the car breathe as does a larger air intake. Exhaust is decent from the factory, for a little more fun noises remove the resonator but keep the stock rear suitcase.

Turbos/intercoolers/tune ect

The weak point here is the auto trans. It doesn't really need a bigger turbo or intercooler to help its finite lifespan. However Volvo did release p* software for the 2.5t p2 engines with auto trans so a mild bump is probably safe. Aside from that there's lots of usability modifications to stay quite busy with.

Looking forward to seeing what your project becomes!
 

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The conventional wisdom is that you need to budget about $1500-2000 per year for maintenance if a shop is doing it. It could be as low as $750/year if you have OBD-II or VIDA, and willing to do "the easy stuff". Luck is also a factor.
I think that rate is targeted more towards the R's, not the 2.5T's.
 

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2006 V70 2.5t 16t
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Brakes: xc90 sourced 308mm rear and 316 mm front are nice and grippy but still allow you to keep basic wheels.

Swaybar: front bar on these cars is already pretty big so just do a rear bar upgrade from a s60 t5. Cheap new or used.

Suspension: stock is actually really good. However I would suggest Delrin subframe bushings that masked such a difference in terms of handling and keeping alignment.

Performance stuff: a downpipe really helps the car breathe as does a larger air intake. Exhaust is decent from the factory, for a little more fun noises remove the resonator but keep the stock rear suitcase.

Turbos/intercoolers/tune ect

The weak point here is the auto trans. It doesn't really need a bigger turbo or intercooler to help its finite lifespan. However Volvo did release p* software for the 2.5t p2 engines with auto trans so a mild bump is probably safe. Aside from that there's lots of usability modifications to stay quite busy with.

Looking forward to seeing what your project becomes!
Scottish, I'm surprised you're saying the rear bar from a s60 T5 fits on a wagon. Is this true across the board for fwd to fwd for the rear bars, or just this case?

To the OP: I got an OBX downpipe going to a TME catback- no drone on the highway. I would encourage possibly looking into an external trans cooler if you're focusing on longevity. I'm also contemplating throwing this 16t and tune on my car, or just a Hilton tune myself. Eager to see where this goes for you. I've been pretty pleased with my 2.5t over the past couple years- originally was looking for another 850 turbo or a T5 V70 but couldn't find either. Regardless to say, this car has served me well so far.
 

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70k mi on my 16T and 'stage 3' tune with torque limiter delete. If you've been following me you'll know how it's been used. Was on an ARD tune for 30k mi and survived that, been running a Hilton tune for the past 40k and it's running well. I've towed the family with a trailer across the country twice, out east a few times, and a bunch of other trips and other heavy usage. Only issue I've had was a manufacturers defect with the hot side of the turbo I was supplied. The hot side was from kinugawa, I suggest you source an Original hot side instead of going with a new aftermarket. The original is made of a much better casting. I got pictures comparing the two in my thread somewhere.

Otherwise, the engine, transmission, AWD, and everything else seems to be holding up well. I'm not shy on the throttle and will get the turbo glowing quite often. I believe the vehicle can handle it and more with proper maintenance and care, and not driving like an idiot. I never launch it from a stop unless there snow , I'll use a lower gear when towing, uphill, or offroad. Of course YMMV, you've got to pay to play, but I'm beginning to think that Volvo knows how to build durable and reliable vehicle .

One thing I'll suggest is a skid plate. Great for accessing the filter and drain plug, and can save your oil pan.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Scottish, I'm surprised you're saying the rear bar from a s60 T5 fits on a wagon. Is this true across the board for fwd to fwd for the rear bars, or just this case?

To the OP: I got an OBX downpipe going to a TME catback- no drone on the highway. I would encourage possibly looking into an external trans cooler if you're focusing on longevity. I'm also contemplating throwing this 16t and tune on my car, or just a Hilton tune myself. Eager to see where this goes for you. I've been pretty pleased with my 2.5t over the past couple years- originally was looking for another 850 turbo or a T5 V70 but couldn't find either. Regardless to say, this car has served me well so far.
Fwd fits fwd. I have a 08 s60 t5 rear bar (21mm) on my 03. Perfect fit. S60 to V70 to S80 interchangeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's a pic


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Changed both front end links today... unfortunately, noticed the passenger inner cv boot was leaking so need to address that next.



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Changed both front end links today... unfortunately, noticed the passenger inner cv boot was leaking so need to address that next.



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I have the same exact problem. I'm going to replace both of mine next week.

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Whoa there..

$1500-$2000 a year for a maintenance budget is out of this world.
$2k a year in parts at 20k miles a year backed up by receipts... All depends how much you drive skywolf. And yes as rpowered said for the good 'ol R, not the humble 2.5T

Tires, brakes (pads and rotors are every 18 months for me), oil changes, plugs, all things that exist.

I'd just delete the resonator and get a downpipe. Things will be rusted together...

And buy new axles... 300 per and now you have spares if they get fubar'd. Volvo boot kits are $50 each so considering time investment (and these things are sensitive to being taken apart wrong... ask me how I know) maybe worth just getting an axle. GKN is the OES. They still sell them with a GKN rather than Volvo sticker. Also used on every AW55 P2.
 

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$2k a year in parts at 20k miles a year backed up by receipts... All depends how much you drive skywolf. And yes as rpowered said for the good 'ol R, not the humble 2.5T
I was speaking about the 2.5T. I know the Rs require more TLC
 

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Changed both front end links today... unfortunately, noticed the passenger inner cv boot was leaking so need to address that next.



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Get these:

MOOG K80501 (front)
MOOG K80425 (rear)

p2 sway bar endlinks @ 12.7mm and greasable
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Get these:

MOOG K80501 (front)
MOOG K80425 (rear)

p2 sway bar endlinks @ 12.7mm and greasable
Oh well, I already went with Lemfoerder from fcpeuro. Maybe these can be an option for KDM Mods.
 

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1. IPD Anti-Sway Bar Kit - waiting for a sale or even used
2. Transmission Fluid Flush
3. Hilton Stage 1 Tune w/ Torque Limiter Delete
4. Cat Back Performance Exhaust (I've read about drone, gurgling, loud, etc. so I'm leaning towards European sound standards but not definite) have looked at Mototec and Simons. If appropriate, I would consider resonator delete w/upgraded muffler.
5. Do88 Intercooler - potentially a transmission cooler at the same time
6. Downpipe - I haven't done much research yet
7. Upgraded Brakes, when needed - I haven't done much research yet
8. Bilstein Touring Struts/Shocks - when needed

Of note, I did correspond with a local indy shop and their advice is that modifying components is likely to place additional stress on unchanged components... potentially leading to premature failure of the unchanged components.

Intuitively, the advice makes sense to me. So, if I begin this journey, is this the can of worms I threaten to open since I see so many posts highlighting how expensive repairs are on these cars?

Thanks
1, They pop up (there's a set on San Antonio CL right now) but are allegedly a pain to install (front subframe needs to be hinged down, rear shocks undone)
2, Definitely. Easy to do by pumping out 2 quarts at a time, stopping the engine and pouring two fresh quarts in. Make sure to use 3309.
3, I got Polestar in mine. If it's covered under warranty (not that the cars are anymore), it'll give me the reliability of working fine in Alaska in the winter and Death Valley in the summer. I value reliability. The trans tune was the biggest improvement IMO.
4/6, I haven't seen any numbers indicating that they are hard of breathing, even when you chip them. This would be my LAST "improvement" on these cars.
5, This might make a difference. I'm in South Texas and I've seen intake temps climb when I'm leaning on the turbo. Of course, I don't need every ounce of power out of the car (it's FWD, it'll never be a performance vehicle).
7, I'd start with Centric rotors and Akebono Euro pads. I haven't changed mine yet, but that's only my list when I'm due for a replacement. If you bed the pads right, those brakes are amazing.
8, I used the Bilstein "OEM equivalent" (I think B6) in my 2006 V70. They are good.

As for cost of maintenance, I've only put $3000 in my car during my 5 years of ownership. That's all new suspension, PCV replacement, timing belt/water pump stuff, new OEM headlamps from Europe and a radiator/evap/intercooler swap after hitting something on the freeway... I think that's about it. Wipers, oil changes, tires, the usual. I do all my work myself though, so that's parts cost. Had that been dealership work, it would be AT LEAST double. That's over 5 years, so I guess it depends on if you drop it off for service or DIY.
 
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