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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,<p>Just found your forum and decided to jump in.<p>I've just bought my first Volvo today ... have a Triumph TR6 and a few other toys, but couldn't pass this up: '75 164E, 50K original miles, zero rust, interior nearly showroom, everything else is clearly original stock, paint terribly faded. Everything seems to work but the a/c. Its been sitting for several years (2-3). I paid very little for it. Put a new battery in it. This one is definitely worth saving.<p>I haven't driven it yet ... I just trailered it home and its in the garage. Two questions for you: <p>First, where to begin? My plan is to change all the fluids, give it a good cleaning, a fresh tank of gas, then start driving it and see what breaks. Anything in particular I should be on the lookout for at this point? Surprisingly, I don't see a lot of leaks.<p>Second, I noticed one thing which I can't figure out yet ... I started it and let it run for a few mins, to get it up to temp. Gauges all seem to work ... it didn't overheat. I shut it off, came back in 20-30 minutes to start it again, and I got nothing. I can hear the fuel pump, but nothing from the starter ... won't crank. It sat for another 10 mins, I turned the key again, and it fired right up. Shut it off, turned the key ... again nothing. Whats with that?<p>What do you think? Are the fuel injectors hot? Bad ground maybe? A relay?<p>Oh, one more thing ... how I do I tell if I have the B30E or F?<p>I appreciate your help and thanks in advance for the many questions I'm sure I'll have. I promise to make them tougher once I get more familiar with my new gem!<p>Cheers.
 

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Re: Newbie: 1975 164E (dumans24)

Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum.<p>Yes, change all the fluids, and when you bleed the brakes check for any frozen caliper pistons.<p>Intermittent failure to crank is purely electrical, nothing to do with hot injectors or the like. Clean all connections at the starter, and see how far that gets you.<p>If it's a U.S. market car, you have a B20F.
 

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Re: Newbie: 1975 164E (Phil Singher)

A second warm welcome to Swedespeed, Dan.<p>Have you stepped on the brake pedal yet?<p>George Dill (not Walrus3 George)
 

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Re: Newbie: 1975 164E (gdill2)

Hi George,<p>Thanks for the welcome ... Funny you should refer to the brakes!<p>I haven't been out of the driveway yet, but I have found that the vac line to the brake power boost is missing. I need to clean more, but so far I haven't found what/where the other end connects to ... I don't see or hear any open vac lines, but I know its in there somewhere! I have "buy a service manual" at the top of my list of things to do.<p>For grins I connected another vac line to it, and the boost seems to work (at least in the feel of the pedal), but it also caused the engine to sputter & stall. I know I need all vac lines connected to properly diagnose, but is there anything I need to know about having the brake boost connected that would cause engine stall? Engine idles fine otherwise.<p>Any reason I wouldn't be getting enough vac? Just curious as to why this one line would be missing/disconnected. Doesn't look like anything else has been touched, and there's such low mileage overall.<p>Dan<p>
 

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Re: Newbie: 1975 164E (dumans24)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>dumans24</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi George,<p>Thanks for the welcome ... Funny you should refer to the brakes!<p>I haven't been out of the driveway yet, but I have found that the vac line to the brake power boost is missing. I need to clean more, but so far I haven't found what/where the other end connects to ... I don't see or hear any open vac lines, but I know its in there somewhere! I have "buy a service manual" at the top of my list of things to do.<p>For grins I connected another vac line to it, and the boost seems to work (at least in the feel of the pedal), but it also caused the engine to sputter & stall. I know I need all vac lines connected to properly diagnose, but is there anything I need to know about having the brake boost connected that would cause engine stall? Engine idles fine otherwise.<p>Any reason I wouldn't be getting enough vac? Just curious as to why this one line would be missing/disconnected. Doesn't look like anything else has been touched, and there's such low mileage overall.<p>Dan<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>With the car in "N" and e-brake "OFF" try to hand-push the car on a level surface. If the car won't budge or is very difficult to roll the brake pads may be locked onto the discs.<p>The temporary vacuum line to the booster pulled vacuum from the engine then spit it right back causing the engine to stumble. A cheapo one-way vacuum in-line valve may help. I am not sure if the brake booster has one internal.<p>Look at all the brake lines under the hood - are there any indications that the brake booster has been isolated from the brake system?<p>If possible, avoid driving the car until all brake issues have been resolved.<p>George Dill<p>
 
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