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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

I just purchased a 2004 XC70 with 88K miles for my wife.
It's in the south, so I have not received it yet, but the deal is done and the check's in the mail so to say. I import cars from the south, because all cars here are rusty after 5 years and I hate working on rusty undercarriages. It's so much easier when bolts come out.

So, it's had extensive dealer maintenance done. Looks to have hit every 7500 mile service and all of the recommended ones. Here's the highlights:

60878 said:
60,000 mile service performed
Engine mount(s) replaced
Rear suspension checked
Tire condition and pressure checked
Transmission fluid flushed
Radiator replaced
Steering/suspension checked
67134 said:
Recommended maintenance performed
7,500 mile service performed
Throttle body replaced
Exhaust secured
74537 said:
Recommended maintenance performed
15,000 mile service performed
Oil and filter changed
Fuel filler cap replaced
Computer reprogrammed
78517 said:
Recommended maintenance performed
Brakes checked
Fuel system leak checked/repaired
Fuel pump replaced
Fuel filler door replaced/repaired
The "recommended maintenance" @ 78K miles included a timing belt. The dealer sent me a photo of the genuine volvo tag on the cover. It hit ten years old and the dealer did it I guess. There were numerous brake jobs and 4 wheel alignments as well. The drawback of a big heavy car I suppose.

So, my questions. I plan to keep it for the next 100k miles. I was going to service all of the fluids, including the Haldex unit and the rear diff. I don't believe in "lifetime" fluids. lifetime of the warranty obligation anyway.
I'm also aware of the sensitive nature of the AW55 tranmission. Will draining and filling the pan yearly be sufficient, or should I simply do a full fluid flush on a regular basis? Something like 20k miles? I hate dealing with quick disconnect lines, even with the right tool they're a PITA and break. the dealer did it at 60k, so it's creeping on 30K since. I figure that's about the longest I should let it go.

Next spring I will likely refresh it's entire suspension, but that's not in the cards for this winter as I'm involved in a restoration project that's consumed my garage. I'll also likely install the upgraded collar and reseal the bevel gear assembly in the spring. I will of course keep tabs on it this winter.
Recommendations for suspension parts? Stay OEM Sachs? not interested in anything other than stock performance, I already have enough modified junk to take care of that requires ordering parts for 4 vehicles to do brake jobs. Volvo spent a lot of money making it work right, so I'm done monkeying with things on my wife's DD.

so just give a complete n00b some brand pointers please. I've spent the last month lurking, so I've picked up a lot, but I'm sure there's things I've missed or not even considered.

You don't know what you don't know until you know as they say.

thanks all. The community seems cool, so I think I'll stick around a bit.
 

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PCV System should be checked/serviced.

Transmission flush ever 30k is ok. Follow Gibbon's Method for flushing out the transmission. Fluid needs to be J3309 or T-IV, Toyota T4 is generally the cheapest, but there are other alternative out there in the market. Angle gear and rear diff, use GL-5 75w90. Haldex is special fluid, Volvo PN:31325136. Haldex filter is also a good idea, but from what I've been reading and what I've experienced, around 100k miles it's common to have one or more issues with the haldex pump or the DEM regardless of service history.

Have you come across Howard's Site?
http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well I hope to stave off the DEM/Haldex issues, but I did forewarn my wife that the AWD was complex and that this thing would likely eat 500-1000 dollars a year in maintenance costs to keep it running tip top. It's a far cry from the 01 Cherokee that she's been driving. I've not had anything other than a 4.0 in the driveway for ten years, they're bombproof and dirt simple. we enjoy wheeling. She's super spoiled by a 242 full time case and lockers, so she demanded AWD. She does leave for work before our steep road is plowed so I agreed, besides, when I say "I" bought her a car I mean that I just found it, had a buddy in the south inspect/drive it and tell her where to send the money ;) it's her car, she can have what she wants.

I am familiar with howards site, and matthews site. I joined here and at the volvoxc site, but they seem to be so heavily moderated that I haven't even seen my thread appear 30 hours after I hit the post button.
I've got a VIDA clone on the way.

Quick question about brake fluid, DOT III or DOT IV?
Should I plan on doing a coolant bottle at this age? The old renix era jeep bottles simply cracked from age. In fact one of the quick fixes was a better made volvo bottle from the yard!
Stick with volvo blue coolant, or are any of the aluminum safe ELC's good?

I'd really like to switch the transmission to a full syn 3309 fluid. I've had much better luck with full syn trans fluids in Aisin transmissions. I see that the maxlife synthetic is approved, and people seem to be having good long term luck with it. I will also investigate redline. I won't put anything other than MT-90 in an Aisin 5 speed manual. It's magic.

Back to the DEM unit, is the IPD shield worth anything for those of us in the salt belt? I was going to hose it down with corrosion x, but some added protection for it would be nice. it's gonna get covered in salt after the first snow, that's just the reality of it.

Good tip on the PCV system. I will just plan on pulling all of it and cleaning it. A happy crankcase is a sealed crankcase.
 

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Brake Fluid: ATE SL.6 (former Super Blue) seems to be everyone's favourite, but any DOT IV should be fine. I'm using Pentosin LV because I got a couple liters for dirt cheap.

Coolant: Can't go wrong with Volvo. Zerex G-05 is what I use. Coolant bottle and rad cap can leak, but I say if not broke don't fix. The more common issue is radiator leaks, they will leak at the end tank seam. Had to replace mine at 70k miles.

Seem that there are quite a few alternatives to the J3309 spec fluid. Here in Canada there is Motomaster Synth ATF that's T-IV spec and is $114.99CAD for a 20L pail, it's what I'm using on th next flush. Maxlife is quoted as being used and approved by Volvo dealers.

I'm not sure if the IPD DEM cover has proved it's worth, but is cheap insurance from mechanical damage. I don't have one, and I don't plan on purchasing one.

PCV system, you may find that the parts are quite brittle or difficult properly clean. Tons of information on the net regarding PCV service, search to your heart's content.
 

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Battery should be on the list if it hasn't been done. Walmart has H8/Group 49 800CCA ones for $120. H8 is the biggest size that will fit in an XC, it's the furthest hold down point. Stock XC70 is 600CCA. The V70R came with 800 from Volvo.
 

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I've got the DEM cover. It's tough to ever gage its effectiveness being that if its doing its job, I won't really know. It's a bit of peace of mind, looks good, and is an easy install. Just be careful that you don't over or under tighten when you insert the new, longer IPD bolts. I had a very minor fluid leak that went unnoticed for about a week. Went under, loosened bolts, retightened, no problems since.
 

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You seem to know exactly what to do and the replies were on the money but no one told you to use synthetic oil
Change it now and go back to 5K oil changes, these engines are sludge engines without a lot of oil changes.

Stay with Mobil 3309 or Toyota type 4, you can't go wrong. Transmission was not designed for synthetic fluid.

If it had 7500 mile oil changes and with dino oil you may need to do the breather now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Battery should be on the list if it hasn't been done. Walmart has H8/Group 49 800CCA ones for $120. H8 is the biggest size that will fit in an XC, it's the furthest hold down point. Stock XC70 is 600CCA. The V70R came with 800 from Volvo.
dealer did the battery last year. it's in the carfax, for serious.

You seem to know exactly what to do and the replies were on the money but no one told you to use synthetic oil
Change it now and go back to 5K oil changes, these engines are sludge engines without a lot of oil changes.

Stay with Mobil 3309 or Toyota type 4, you can't go wrong. Transmission was not designed for synthetic fluid.

If it had 7500 mile oil changes and with dino oil you may need to do the breather now.
I'd not ever consider a non-synthetic oil in a turbo car. I also don't believe in 7500 mile oil changes or oil life meters. it will get full synth (probably GTX because I can get cases cheap), OEM filters and changed before 5K miles on the regular. honestly it's only going to do maybe 8K miles a year, so it will probably end up on the spring/fall maintenance schedule like everything else. Twice a year whether it needs it or not.

I'm still not sold on the traditional 3309 spec fluid, it just seems dated. Fluids have come a long way in the 20 years since that spec was adopted. I'm going to have to spend some more time on the intarwebs to answer that question. Maybe I'll shove some 3309 in it and wait and see how those trying the Valvoline fare.

If it comes down to rebuilding the PCV, which parts do I need? All of them, or just the breather box/soft hose parts.
 

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dealer did the battery last year. it's in the carfax, for serious.



I'd not ever consider a non-synthetic oil in a turbo car. I also don't believe in 7500 mile oil changes or oil life meters. it will get full synth (probably GTX because I can get cases cheap), OEM filters and changed before 5K miles on the regular. honestly it's only going to do maybe 8K miles a year, so it will probably end up on the spring/fall maintenance schedule like everything else. Twice a year whether it needs it or not.

I'm still not sold on the traditional 3309 spec fluid, it just seems dated. Fluids have come a long way in the 20 years since that spec was adopted. I'm going to have to spend some more time on the intarwebs to answer that question. Maybe I'll shove some 3309 in it and wait and see how those trying the Valvoline fare.

If it comes down to rebuilding the PCV, which parts do I need? All of them, or just the breather box/soft hose parts.
You need the box, upper hose, and a bunch of clamps and an intake manifold gasket. And new coolant.

Volvo transmissions are weird. Buy 3309 from Amazon by the case and deal with it.

I put Castrol GTX fully synthetic 10w30 in every Volvo we have. Get a skid plate if yours doesn't have it. I'd go iPd aluminum because it doesn't have to get dropped to change the oil... Which is the worst part. Also a Volvo oil filter wrench. I'm also a time over mileage person. Every 4 months regardless of mileage or 7k for the XC and 5k for the R.
 

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Suspension: OE struts and shocks are Sachs. I don't think there are many other choices anyway.

You'll want to replace the spring seats with XC90 or IPD HD ones as they have more rubber in the center:


The LCA bushings might need replacing as well. There are IPD HD and Meyle HD replacements but I don't know much about them.

Edit: correction, there are no IPD HD LCAs for XC70s.
 

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Suspension: OE struts and shocks are Sachs. I don't think there are many other choices anyway.

You'll want to replace the spring seats with XC90 or IPD HD ones as they have more rubber in the center:


The LCA bushings might need replacing as well. There are IPD HD and Meyle HD replacements but I don't know much about them.
All Volvo brand spring seats are XC90 now. As for LCAs I'd go Lemforder or Volvo OE. Easier to swap the arm than bushing.
 

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As for LCAs I'd go Lemforder or Volvo OE. Easier to swap the arm than bushing.
I like Lemforder but it seems that their LCAs aren't readily available. Volvo LCAs are a bit pricey too ($436). Out of curiosity, would you pick Moog ($332) or Meyle HD ($260)?

Moog:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccakt2p2

Meyle HD:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-2-piece-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccakt3p2

Volvo:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccaktp2
 

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I like Lemforder but it seems that their LCAs aren't readily available. Volvo LCAs are a bit pricey too ($436). Out of curiosity, would you pick Moog ($332) or Meyle HD ($260)?

Moog:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccakt2p2

Meyle HD:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-2-piece-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccakt3p2

Volvo:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-v70xc-xc70-kit-p2xccaktp2
FCP has them. I ordered and received a pair 2 weeks ago.

Price Qty. Total
Volvo Ball Joint Lower (V70 S80 S60 XC70) - Lemforder (OEM) 274548 $34.99 2 $69.98
Volvo Control Arm Front Right (V70 XC70) - Lemforder 36012460 $83.11 1 $83.11
Volvo Control Arm Front Left (V70 XC70) - Lemforder 36012459 $129.99 1 $129.99

Also need these:

Price Qty. Total
Volvo Flange Bolt Left (M12x105) - Genuine Volvo 987455 $4.49 2 $8.98
Volvo Flange Bolt Right (M12x115) - Genuine Volvo 987456 $4.89 2 $9.78
Volvo Flange Screw (M14x90) - Genuine Volvo 985226 $4.89 2 $9.78
 

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I'm still not sold on the traditional 3309 spec fluid, it just seems dated. Fluids have come a long way in the 20 years....

If it comes down to rebuilding the PCV, which parts do I need? All of them, or just the breather box/soft hose parts.
But the tranny has NOT changed, it's still the same.

All of them but you can spare the $$ damage on buying the most expensive part, the large $200 pipe for a $35 XC 90 T6 part which you can cut and mate to the larger portion of that tube

I'll get the P/N of the part later for you. Since you seem to know what you're doing it will be obvious when you hold the two side by side what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
But the tranny has NOT changed, it's still the same.
this is true. Like I said, I'll stuff some 3309 in it and then wait to see how the synthetic guys do.

appreciate the part numbers. I've got no issues hacking things up as long as the end result is a servicable part that doesn't look completely like ass.

then again I've done some serious "that looks like ass" repairs in my day too.
Lost your LCA bolt while out wheeling? Jamb the biggest screwdriver in the toolbox in the hole, ratchet strap it in place, continue wheeling.

We'll save the suspension talk for next spring, I didn't realize there were thirty two different revisions of the same bits. it's likely to get all new bushings, including the subframe, ball joints, steering joints and struts at the same time.
I like to take things apart once. My primary concern is just resetting the maintenance clocks on everything and feeling it out for whatever might need fixed.

Since you seem to know what you're doing it will be obvious when you hold the two side by side what to do.
and I appreciate this. I try to be a n00b with a clue. I know how it is to be old hat on the forum and see the same question asked daily. So I'll try and not miss the obvious ones.
 

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Remind me tomorrow, I have to go through my files again.
It's posted over on www.XC70.com
 

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Thanks (I forgot)
 
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