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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, im new to volvos, coming from vws, and my car has some issues that id like some advice on. i dont have very much experience working with volvos, but i spent 8 years in professional shops and 5 years repairing vehicles on the side (mostly mk4 vws). ill just get right into it...

1- most recent and serious, in the cold temperatures (below freezing) the car does not want to start. it will crank and ill smell fuel and all that but wont start, the colder it is, the worse the problem becomes. the other day it was 12 degrees and the car would not start despite me cranking it a bunch. i noticed clicking relay sounds coming from the cem area, and knowing that its a temperature related problem, put a hairdryer to the cem and warmed it up. car fired up within 3 seconds. i should note that the car never fires right off. usually cranks for 1-2 seconds even in warm temperatures. im assuming the cem needs replacement. once the car is running, it doesnt have any funny issues. car has a new crank sensor and cam sensor, i did it preventatively. still get an accasional crank sensor code. after long cranks it says reduced power, but boosts 10psi, according to my ipd gauge.

2-hvac. the blower motor is spinning its balls off and you can hear that it's blowing air, but not much comes out of the vents, recirc seems better than auto or outside, checked with vida and the foot/face motor is operating, going from 53-99%, but something isnt right. did the ccm motor sweep adaptation. no change.

3-awd inop, chassis settings warning on. the guy i got the car from told me a volvo shop diagnosed it as a bad cem. after scanning the car, i'm not so sure, no awd/dem codes. ill post a screenshot of the vida scan. any advice is appreciated.

these codes came right back after clearing and restarting. ignore the headlight codes, PO replaced xenon headlights for halogen. aum module (stock radio) has been replaced with aftermarket.


thank you for any help.
 

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I can tell you that #1 could very likely be your battery doesn't have enough voltage to start the car when the starter engages, or your coils are getting old to where they don't like throwing a spark very well at those temps either.

As far as #2 goes, check your cabin filter, it could be so clogged up its seriously reducing the HVAC throughput. That's on my to-do list since I can tell my fan still spins just fine but it only flows about half of what it used to since I haven't changed the filter in years.

On #3, fix your chassis accelerometers and struts, all those errors will always be throwing a chassis warning because your 4C system is currently FUBAR. Then again it could be the internal SUM fault, or bad sensors and struts are causing the SUM fault, so you have a bit of troubleshooting to do on that part of your system.
 

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Looks like all of your SUM issues may be as a result of the front right accelerometer.
Siren communication fault is common for early R's. Battery in the Alarm Module is likely dead.
I would start with the accelerometer, and replace the cabin air filter. Get your battery tested.
After that's all done, erase all, then shut off the car, disconnect the battery with the key in position II, short the positive and negative cables (disconnected from the battery) and let it sit that way for 10 mins.
Reconnect the battery with the key still in position II. Let it sit for a minute, start the car and let it run for a while, turn the car off, then re-scan your car.
 

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I would have your battery checked/replaced or at least verify its age by looking for the sticker on it. Then I would clear your codes. Then I would drive it again and see what comes back. I think some of those signal codes could be low voltage related. My $0.02
 

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For your cold starting problem can you tell me at what -celcius do you try to start the car ? as well as which oil do you use in the car ? Check the battery and make sure its strong because these cars need a lot of power from the battery and a dead one can cause a lot of issues, check coils and spark plugs too.

The car has currently no AWD ? The front tires are sprinning freely without power being sent to the back ?

An electrical AWD problem will throw a code, if you awd doesnt work and nothing shows up in the system i would check for mechanical issues. You might have a stripped angle gear collar sleeve, any noises coming from the angle gear especially when making low speed turns ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for all the input.
-battery is about a year old. voltage is good, car cranks well, just doesnt want to fire.
-i do think my coils may be weak, as im pretty sure the car is slightly down on power with no codes. car had the incorrect plugs in it so i put the long ngks in it and a coil immediately failed.
-awd is totally inoperative, just blows the front tires off.
-if the hvac is in recirc mode, i didnt think it would pass through the cabin air filter. guess i was wrong. ill have to check that
-ill check that right front accelerometer for broken wires.
-the siren doesnt beep for locking or unlocking like my vw did, but the alarm works, though im pretty sure that goes through the regular vehicle horns. and info on changing that battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok... update on the hvac issue- pulled out the cabin air filter... it was indeed dirty. for the time being im running it with no filter until the new mann filter comes in. now that theres airflow, i cant seem to turn off the floor vents, which is a big deal because my fiance gets anxiety in the car and needs fresh air blown in her face. when i scanned with vida it showed the defrost/floor vent 53 percent to 100 percent when i was playing with the controls.i dont have any ccm codes other that iaq sensor. air blows extremely strongly out of the floor vents and certainly better out of the dash vents, but i need the floor vents off. any ideas? anyone know where the foot/face actuator is located?
 

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Change all the coils and the fuel filter, if the car still doesnt start clean the injectors, is there any obvious codes popping up in vida that would indicate something in the firing system not working properly ? Fuel pump could be bad as well, it could be a lot of things.

About your AWD issue, if nothing comes up in vida/dice about electrical problems which could be ( DEM, AOC Pump, pressure sensor solenoid ) you most likely have a stripped sleeve, it's a collar with teeths that bites into the bevel gears ( transfer case ) and transfers the power to the back. Buy a new collar sleeve and install it, inspect the angle gear shaft and check for wear sign on the teeths, if they have less than 40% teeths dept left you will need to replace the transfer case soon but most of the time they are okay. The sleeve is made of weaker metal so it absorbs the impact and breaks before damaging the transfer case gears. Generally these cars break a couple of sleeves before having to change the angle gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
all the codes are in the picture in the original post. nothing pointing to coils or anything, once it starts it runs fine, i know the cem is iffy, im starting to think that the cem may be causing some of my problems, as it's literally a direct link to everything electrical on the car.

i have yet to test the angle gear/collar... ive been researching the awd system on these cars and have found a few tests. my car only has 107k miles on it so i dont think anything should be too far gone.
 

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all the codes are in the picture in the original post. nothing pointing to coils or anything, once it starts it runs fine, i know the cem is iffy, im starting to think that the cem may be causing some of my problems, as it's literally a direct link to everything electrical on the car.

i have yet to test the angle gear/collar... ive been researching the awd system on these cars and have found a few tests. my car only has 107k miles on it so i dont think anything should be too far gone.
You should do the collar sleeve test as your first diagnosis, it's really simple put the car on ramps/jackstands or up on a curb and check if you can turn the shaft by hand. If it turns your sleeve is stripped, if you cant turn it with your hands and have no AWD you have an electrical problem. Another test you can do is get the car on a lift and see if all the wheels are spinning together, if you hear noise coming from the transfer case it's a stripped sleeve or angle gear failure. If these tests fail it's an electrical component, i will enumerate for you what can go bad reguarding units: Haldex DEM Module, Haldex AOC Pump, Haldex Pressure sensor, Haldex clogged filter and the fuse. If you conclude that it might be an electrical fault and nothing comes up in vida check the pump, apply power to it from an external source and listen to the sound of it, it should be clear and pumping at a good speed, if it feels slow and sluggish thats most likely your problem, clean the haldex filter while in there and you can change the haldex oil as well.

Hope you sort it out man, i went tru an AWD issue not long ago as well.
 

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-the siren doesnt beep for locking or unlocking like my vw did, but the alarm works, though im pretty sure that goes through the regular vehicle horns. and info on changing that battery?
To my knowledge there is no locking beep on these caRs.

The siren is a different item than pushing the alarm button on the FOB. The way to test your siren function is to put the driver window down, close the door, lock the car with your FOB, reach in through the driver's window and unlock the door manually, then open the door. If it makes a crazy loud noise, your siren works. If there's no sound but your lights blink, your siren has failed.

Here's siren replacement links:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=17479

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?121128-Alarm-System-Service-Required-!-!-Really-!

http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-Volvo-Part-9499758/Siren
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If i hit the panic button the alarm goes off, super loud. And ill definitely check the collar. Thanks for the help, guys. Trying to polish this turd from years of neglect.
 

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The panic button is a different horn...your alarm module is most likely bad, common issue.

Lock you R with the windows down. Like said above and if only the lights are flashing you need a new module. There are threads on how to repair it but imo it's not worth it. Try sourcing one on a part out.
 

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The panic button is a different horn...your alarm module is most likely bad, common issue.

Lock you R with the windows down. Like said above and if only the lights are flashing you need a new module. There are threads on how to repair it but imo it's not worth it. Try sourcing one on a part out.
I don't understand why people source one form a part out...you're just getting another one that hasn't failed "yet". It's going to fail very soon. Either repair it with a new battery or replace the unit. The other option is to go through the dealer to have it removed altogether.
 

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If i hit the panic button the alarm goes off, super loud. And ill definitely check the collar. Thanks for the help, guys. Trying to polish this turd from years of neglect.
You clearly did not read what I wrote. LOL

The panic button is totally unrelated. Read the post. The siren needs tested to verify function.
 

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Not all of them fail.....
 

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Not all of them fail.....
Nonsense. The batteries all have a life expectancy. They won't last forever and buying a used one and installing it as-is means it will last 9-12 years less for you than it would have otherwise. Now, if you buy a used one and refurbish it and replace the battery, then you might be on to something. I elected to just buy a new one and be done with it.
 

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I got a used unit from Erie which also comes with a lifetime warranty. Cost me way less than a used unit, and if it dies I'll just have them send me another since its not hard to change at all.
 

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I got a used unit from Erie which also comes with a lifetime warranty. Cost me way less than a used unit, and if it dies I'll just have them send me another since its not hard to change at all.
Out of curiosity, what do they charge for that? Do they swap in a new battery before selling them? Did you consider swapping a new battery in before installing it if they didn't?
 
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