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Re: New to the forum... (JayTeeC)

I had those OE Michelins too. I found them to be very noisey, a bit slippery, and caused heavy steering at the end of their life, which on my car was about 38k. Which considering, was not bad. First owner must have kept up on alignments.

Don't know that the alignment would cause the steering wheel to not be centered unless seriously off. What I noticed was a bit of drifting at speed, and also when braking and accelerating, and heavy unresponsive steering. With proper alignment the car felt much lighter to drive.

Quick side note here. Went to a classic car show today. Was amazed to see that a 1960 Desoto-which is absolutely a huge vehicle, with 430 c.i. iron V8, massive tailfins, and huge chrome steel bumbers- only weighed in at only 3950 lbs.

So are you getting that front end noise? From your post I gather you didn't change out the endlinks when you did the sways? Asking because I had a bit of that low speed tight turn clunk described here. After sway bars and endlinks it is now a bit different and more prevalent. I did do the endlinks, so either a problem with the new ones, or they are causing whatever made to to make it more. There was talk here of TNN 61 10 to dealers about some other bolts in the supension that needed to be changed to eliminate sound. Mine is only coming from front left. Hear it when braking at low speed, and first part of acceleration, and on right turns, again at low speed. It is frustrating as it is not real consistent.

So, trying to decide if asking IPD to look (like maybe a bad ball joint in the endlink), or take to dealer.

BTW, congrats on doing the sway install yourself. Quite the project for something that is essentially two bolts per bar!! http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Re: New to the forum... (aintsheswede)

Michelins- I dont think they're noisy, and steering is fine, but they arent very grippy. Dont know the miles on mine, but prev owner was into OE products, so put them on after first set died. Doubt he cared about their grip- the grip shortage is much more noticable now w/ the sways.

Steering- I dont think my alignment is significantly off. Steering is off center (just the wheel, not the vehicle tracking) probably due to all the banging around on the steering rack. Alignment will straighten steering wheel, and put back to spec just in case its slightly out, from sway install or wear.

DeSoto- its missing all the eletronic goodies!! Wiring for all the goodies like power everything, heated seats, ABS, traction control, defrosters, fog lights, airbags, more airbags, 15 speaker- 6disc stereo, homelink, nav, dvd, hids, rain sensing wipers, dual zone climate control, rear proximity sensors... crazy part is despite the added weight, we've exceeded power to weight ratios and specific outputs, and decreased emissions. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

No, didnt do the endlinks. I think you perfectly described the front end noises i'm experiencing. Apparently very common with these. I'm thinking i'll do the endlinks. Very surprised to hear your experience worsened. Confusing... I learned TNN 61-10 pertains only to vehicles after a certain VIN. Mine was well before, maybe yours is too. It recommended new bolts on the sway bar brackets. Not sure why. My other suspicion is the front upper spring seats/perchs, which are also known for problems (IPD sells heavier duty units). Wonder if we'll ever figure it out...
 

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Re: New to the forum... (JayTeeC)

JayCeeT,
There seems to be several causes of front end clunks in the other post. Brake pads, end links strut mounting, and control arm to frame bolt. Checked my VIN, and mine is in the range for the TNN 61-10.

Going ot IPD for an oil change tomorrow, and asked them to check out the clunk, since it is completely different happens constantly since sway bars. But I listened carefully today, and tried a few things, and am thinking it may be as simple as a brake pad. at least the majority of it. just a little pressure on the brakes makes it happen once, and its not enough to make me think an endlink problem. because once the brakes are engaged, harder braking does not cause anymore noise. And it happens once on accereration after a stop, like it slips back, but then once at speed and accelerating again, it doesn't happen. Like it slips back. Then its good till you brake again, causing it to slip forward once. So, don't know if my logic is correct, but am hoping it is that simple.

Will post results tomorrow.
Thanks.
 

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Re: New to the forum... (aintsheswede)

JayCeeT,
Well, it wasn't the brakes. The bolts on the control arms were a bit loose. IPD tightened them and documented it, so I can go to the dealer and have TNN 61-10 done. Quiet as can be now. But may happen again. As I think the TNN had them replace the bolts. Don't know if that helps you though, since your VIN is out of that range. Good luck.
 

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About the bolts being replaced. Mine already had the TNN had when I purchased the vehicle, but it was still clunking. So I took it back to the dealer - where the XC was originally leased/maintained and they found nothing wrong. Decided to take it to a second dealer who found that indeed the bolts were replaced, but they used the wrong bolts!! They were too short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Re: New to the forum... (aintsheswede)

Thanks Swede- I'll try what you described and see if that replicates the prob. Got my alignment today; only the left rear toe was really out. All else to spec. Straightened my steering wheel too.

I changed my oil last weekend, and found a synthetic drain plug gasket on it, wondered why, tossed it in the trash, and replaced w/ a crush washer. Came out two mornings later to a puddle of oil. Not seating correctly. Tried a second metal gasket, same leak. So I bought some synthetic (flexible) gaskets, and not a drop. What type of gasket are you using? Drain plug leaks common on these? There was no evidence of a leak when i bought. Also, what viscosity is IPD using? My manual calls for 5w-30 in "temperate climates" but not to exceed 86deg F !! So I went with their alternate recommendation, 10w-30 (also figuring it will be good for my 75k miles).

Also going to change the plugs tonight- I just learned with my VADIS disc (!! yes, its fantastic) of the 75K change interval... my current mileage. So I found they are very specific on what plug type to use- OE is iridium. Auto parts stores are actually more $$$ than the dealer for the OE plugs (NGK Iridium). So bought a set from Stealership. Rear bank looks like it might be tricky, poss require removal of strut tower "brace"...
 

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Re: New to the forum... (JayTeeC)

JayTeeC,
IPD used 5-30 redline synthetic. Yes, the manual calls for the 10-30 in that temp range, but I believe the chart in the manual is base on regular oil, not synthetic. They mention using synthetic for towing or other extreme conditions, but don't give a chart on it. Reading up on the syns, I believe they perform at a wider range than their rating. But I am no expert on the subject. The more I read the more confused I get. However, a lot of folks swear by syn 0-30 that works perfectly in 5-30 and 10-30 applications for regular oil. Since I am taking a trip next week to Central California where it is 106F right now, and other locations in CA, I specifically asked them about it and the assured me the 5-30 was fine.

Gasket: I have not changed my own oil as yet. But, funny I did have a similar but opposite problem on a vanagon. Had to do with using either a metal crush washer or solid metal washer. Mine took the crushed, but some took the solid. I think it depended on the drain plug. My mechanic used the wrong one twice and had the same problem (great shop though, immediately rectified which cost them a bit of time and another full oil change). But I remember them say it was just a weird little quirk on the drain plug type. Don't really know if that has any correlatoin to Volvos.

Good Luck on the plugs. I haven't even looked into it that far yet. My hats off to you for diving into that. Let us know. And I will say Volvo is funny about some of that pricing. I only got charged $4.95 for an oil filter cartridge, and you can't hardly buy a decent spin on for that price anywhere. I had that experience going back to our 740. Example is a 6" piece of rubber weatherstrip at the bottom of the fixed glass window behind the rear door required buying $300 worth of stuff you didn't need. Regulartor on front window was plastic and rotted, but you had to buy whole new electric motor with the replacement for $600.

On the other hand the front skid plate was only $35.

Also let us know about the condition of your plugs. Be interested to see if maybe a bit earlier interval would be well advised.

BTW just got back from a 400 mile round trip up the Columbia River gorge on the WA side. Nice curvey 2 lane highway. OMG I love to pass in this machine! Lots of fun with new swaybars. Got 24.1 on way up, 23.5 on way back fighting headwind and with AC on. Only mention because of touted better mileage with Syn oil. Did this same trip in January, with almost shot tires and regular oil, but only about .5 mpg better. Better test will be upcoming trip to CA as we have done a trip to southern end of OR. Much flatter interstate drive. Will post results.

Alignment: That is the same wheel that was out the most in all three of my alignments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Re: New to the forum... (aintsheswede)

Sorry for the long delay- we took the first trip in the new XC down south to Myrtle Beach SC- 1500 miles in all, and averaged 21.5 over the entire distance. Could be better, could be worse. Mostly highway, but city killed the average. Forget if i mentioned my last test- about an hour on the PA turnpike, got 24.5 one way, and 22.5 the other way (elevation change or wind direction??). I did pull the old plugs, and found them to be visibly worn down, and the gap was out of spec. I think thats part of the problem- I expect to get better mileage w/ the new plugs, but have not installed them yet. There is a wire loom and rail on the rear of the engine that needs removed, and I did not have time to figure out how to pull it. Also had to remove the strut brace and upper engine mount! Not an easy plug change. For as long as these plugs last, I would probably replace them sooner, say around 60K. Most owners will only change them once or twice... I believe all these new long service intervals are marketing aids for an increasingly maintenance-wary population. Oil changes over 10K on some new cars? BS. Plugs at 100K? More BS. But it sells cars. I also think the recommended 87 octane is marketing. Ppl dont want to pay for premium fuel, even tho driving a premium vehicle. 87 cant be good (long term) for an engine running 10.4:1 compression. Best case the computer retards timing and you lose HP.

I believe you (and IPD) regarding 5w-30. I agree it would be safe. I'm also choosing 10w because I bought 2 cases from Costco for another vehicle and am not using it. So now it goes in the XC90... Will probably get 5w next time- thinner oil (as long as its safe) is better for power and mileage.

Funny about the driver rear wheel!


Also, are your brake calipers rusty looking? Mine are, all around. Pulled the wheels off, ground the rust off w/ a grinding attachment on a drill, looked really pretty, then got back from SC and they are rusting again! Think its a common problem. Ugly! Considering getting the paint kit from IPD. Will post pics and results if I do it. IPD kit is nice since its brush on, and does not require removing the caliper to spray it.
 
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