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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured it was a good idea to introduce myself. I'm new to the 240 and Volvos as a whole. My boyfriend has had 23 different Volvos not including parts cars. He current has a 92 940 Turbo Wagon and a 68 1800S auto-xer.

I bought a 1990 245 GL, he just rolled 300,000 miles on the second transmission and original engine. No accident history, originally bought in GA and has lived in NC the past 15 years. It's a one owner car. Aside from the usual broken plastics, bent hood (rusted hinges seem to be pretty common), worn suspension and ball bearings dying in the blower fan the car is in good shape. I'm driving it to and from work for the next few months.

I am going to start troubleshooting the broken cruise control this weekend (and already have a feeling it's cluster or module related). The Volvo Gods have already tested me as the fuel pump conked out 45 miles into the drive home; an aftermarket pump was installed road-side. (Then we got caught in a rain/hale storm, and I've not owned a RWD car in at least 10 years, my panic level was a little up there with the gusty winds and fear of spin-out on the highway).

But... we're home. car drives ok, and is rust-free... which is important because it's destined to become my turbo diesel brick.
 

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Welcome to Swedespeed, Chris.

"He" - your '90 245, needs a name so we can have an easy reference. If it were a "She" a cool name would be "Wonona".

Turbo diesel in a 245 - no problem. You going with the bolt-in VW motor with 5-speed or other?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks George,

My boyfriend insisted on the name Sterling, and I was resistant to the name (the owner's middle name was Jan, and I wanted to use that). I emailed the PO and he said "the only name the kids ever used was silver car." Sterling Silver it is.

I'm strongly leaning towards the VW D24TIC, yes. I also like the idea of keeping the 5-speed even though I've been told the 4-speed with overdrive handles torque better. The Cummins 4BT and a 1Z/AHU/AGR VW TDI have also been considered. I like the idea of using the 6-cyl because I've never owned a 6-cyl diesel and the videos I've seen of the D24 Volvos sound really good.





Even though I'm not crazy on Silver, when I get this car repainted I will keep it factory silver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
An update...

I ordered a replacement passenger side mirror as the one that Sterling came with wasn't a real mirror at all. That's installed and working fine.

On the way home in the rain the other day, or well the rain had let up and I dropped the windows... I noticed a burning smell. I knew the driver side headlight was taped into place and the PO wasn't sure why he had to do it. Well a week of 100+ temps made that tape fail and the bulb was burning the actual plastic of the housing! So I took that out.

Tonight we used a dremel to open up the melted part of the housing and the locking ring still works, so I have the headlight back. That's when we noticed something really odd...

Sterling is Cross-eyed. As in, the driver side lamp is on high beam while the passenger is on low beam. If I switch to high beams, the passenger goes to high beam and the driver reverts to low beam. When the lights are on and the high beam is off, the high beam indicator is partially illuminated.

I'm not super concerned about this right now as I think it could be the bulb, and the bulb was scratched scraping the melted plastic off. I expect it to fail in short order... but I may swap the bulbs just to test the theory. When the bulb was unplugged I got a bulb out warning lamp on the dash when the lights were on, but no half-lit high beam indicator.

I'm not sure if it's just a ground, or if the high beam relay may be involved. Or it could just be the fuse ... I have some nice brass fuses on the way from a Mercedes upgrade kit I found on ebay. Going to clean the fuse panel really goood and upgrade to the newer fuses and see what happens.

Any ideas on the cross-eyed situation?
 

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Cross-eyed 240 - first for me!

New standard aftermarket headlight bulbs for the 240 are cheap - get a twin-pack to assure compatibility.

The car has two headight relays - one for power and one for highbeams. Clean these up and check all grounds.

Look at each headlight bulb harness/socket - identical? Melted? Damaged? If so salvage sockets are cheap and easy to install.

Your 245 wagon prefers matching bulbs left-to-right for all lights - brake, tail, parking, reverse, etc.

Raise the tailgate and inspect the wiring in the hinge areas - repair as needed.

Y'all are bringing Sterling up to high standards and this model Volvo will return many rewards with proper upkeep.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I suspected a grounding issue... I'm going to get a new socket and bulb (matching sylvania sockets and bulbs currently). I figure when those new fuses come in I'll take a weekend and really go over the system. It's frightening how much (and, really, little compared to today's modern car) wiring there is. When I get around to the engine swap relays will be relocated to a single spot to make it easier to upkeep.

What amazes me is the cost of suspension hardware. More than twice what it'd cost for my TDI. But the value of suspension is felt for years; this car has more than likely OE hardware that is 22 years old with 300,000 miles of wear on it. Not too shabby.
 

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"...cost of suspension hardware..."

Inexpensive 240 parts are available but most rabid Volvo Lovers go with the tuer goodies.

From 1975 into 1993 Volvo produced more than two million 240s and cheap parts are sleeping on warehouse shelves worldwide.

I just hustled a u-joint for an old Volvo and found a site in China that has 10,000 available!

23 bucks for a 240 rear shock...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_C0077_1287031_482&pt=C0077&ppt=C0035

...but who cares?!



George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For the effort involved, I'm not going with OE hardware :)

It's not so much the shocks and struts, it's the bushings that cost so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Over the weekend we went to a scrap yard and got:

driver side front bumper trim and clips
driver side mirror
glove box
various interior trim bits (including a swanky dash cover)
passenger door chrome trim

I've not installed the mirror or any of the interior bits. Holy crap that chrome L shape was impossible to get on. I also know it wasn't removed correctly so it is likely a little bent, and that made it harder to installed, but seriously wow... that took me over 30 minutes to get installed. It's a shame that it looks so nice otherwise I'd just delete them all.

Really love having a working glovebox again. Can't believe I found one that wasn't broken (out of 4 vehicles, only one had a good box). Some of the 240's I saw were very nice condition, a shame to see them in there.

So one of them was a 92 or 93 with the "blue snowflake".... can that AC control be retrofitted to a 90? I have the knob with some tube filled with gas (so I've been told) that dictates how much/often the compressor should be used. I believe in all or none, myself. I'll go snag the switch if I know it can be done.

This weekend: fuse upgrades (I got some that are brass? copper? I can't remember but they were suggested to me) and seeing if I can't clean up the headlight contacts to fix that cross-eyed situation. Also seeing if I can clean up those headlights a little bit.

Almost 1,000 miles put on this car since purchase. Happy with it. Especially since I can throw my bike in the back of it without any effort and go riding at work on my lunch break!
 

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Over the weekend we went to a scrap yard and got:

driver side front bumper trim and clips
driver side mirror
glove box
various interior trim bits (including a swanky dash cover)
passenger door chrome trim

I've not installed the mirror or any of the interior bits. Holy crap that chrome L shape was impossible to get on. I also know it wasn't removed correctly so it is likely a little bent, and that made it harder to installed, but seriously wow... that took me over 30 minutes to get installed. It's a shame that it looks so nice otherwise I'd just delete them all.

Really love having a working glovebox again. Can't believe I found one that wasn't broken (out of 4 vehicles, only one had a good box). Some of the 240's I saw were very nice condition, a shame to see them in there.

So one of them was a 92 or 93 with the "blue snowflake".... can that AC control be retrofitted to a 90? I have the knob with some tube filled with gas (so I've been told) that dictates how much/often the compressor should be used. I believe in all or none, myself. I'll go snag the switch if I know it can be done.

This weekend: fuse upgrades (I got some that are brass? copper? I can't remember but they were suggested to me) and seeing if I can't clean up the headlight contacts to fix that cross-eyed situation. Also seeing if I can clean up those headlights a little bit.

Almost 1,000 miles put on this car since purchase. Happy with it. Especially since I can throw my bike in the back of it without any effort and go riding at work on my lunch break!
Good work - is your 12-bay workshop air conditioned?

Your '90 240 is the last year for that gas-filled tube (AC Expansion Valve). '91-'93 had different valves dependiing on R12 or R134a...

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/240/volvo-240-AC-Parts.html

...and also notice that AC components for '91-'93 240 are dissimilar to the '75-'90.

BTW, stash all your accumulated and unused 240 stuff as some parts are getting rare and will eventually be in high demand - you'll need an eBay account.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I didn't know that some 240s came with R134a... I may have to go look at that snowflake car and see if I can snag its system then.

haha, 12-window garage. What a hoot. :)

Have an ebay account; already used to get the passenger mirror. All too familiar with End of Life hardware for cars (I do come from VWs..)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I figured out the cross-eyed nonsense. One of the bulbs is a 9007; the other is a 9004. The 9007 is reverse wired to the 9004; so I just need another 9004...

Got the other mirror installed. Passenger front door trim installed. Remove passenger seat -- going to see if we can somehow fab the bracks to fit the spare grey 940 seats we have sitting in the garage.

Going back to the yards tomorrow for some odds and ends; speaker grills and some clips.

I forgot to mention I got some nice Polk Audio speakers that are going in the front -- really nice sound. Tested them today. Gonna need to modify them a tad to fit the front but looks like we can drill out two of the pop rivets that hold the grille plastic in place and screw the spears right into it. Dremel time !!

The door lock has always been flaky. We saw today that the wiring has totally eroded away; so that got pulled out and we're gonna look for one of those tomorrow as well ... along with yanking the non-knee bolster under dash trim for the drivers side to delete the bolster on my car.

I can't think of anything else right now. Slow but steady progress. Hopefully in a week or two I'll know about acquiring the 98 Jetta TDI that'll be the base for the motor swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm open to suggestions. I haven't read up on the 240 TDI thread at TDIClub; I know adapters exist for the Volvo transmissions, and I like the M47 well enough (I like having 5 real gears) but I know this one is the second one in 300k for this car ... they're not known for their reliability in high torque applications so I'm told. (tell me otherwise?)


In other news... back to the yard today for retaining clips for the interior brush guard that sits atop the door card for the driver side. Got that all buttoned up; got the Polk Audio speakers installed in the front doors and discovered that my power lock wiring harness was in better shape than either the 89 or 92 sedans... so I used electrical tape to fix it up and reinstalled.

Removed the passenger seat to see about mating brackets to a spare set of 940 seats we have. No dice. Not into that much fab work. Pricing a rebuild of the seats at a local interior shop; driver seat is really worn out and the back bench has a tear. Amazingly, the passenger seat is basically pristine.

At a loss for anything else to update about. I have just over 1000 miles on the car since purchase and no real complaints. I've enjoyed what I've done so far; I do have real questions about the swap.. such as how to rig the VW A/C system up to work with the Volvo factory hardware where applicable. I guess I'll figure it out as we go along. I need to acquire the donor car first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, apparently, you can completely disassemble them and swap the adjuster knob so that it's on the outside of the seat but the lumbar will still be on the opposite side. Our plan is to remove the console and now swap the materials out at all... without the console the adjuster knob being on the inside won't be a big deal. It's temporary, anyway.

Have a link on the machine at home that I can post that gave a decent text write up on how to do it and the limitations.....will post that up when I go home.
 
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