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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

Just got a new (to me) 2009 S60 T5 the other day! This is my second Volvo; I owned a '98 S70 T5 for a while but eventually got rid of the car after getting tired of the floppy, noisy, rattly mess that the P80 platform is.

Some details:
  • 2009 S60 T5, 5 speed GT, Titanium Grey, 96,xxx miles
  • Interesting options: Bending xenons, parking sensors
  • Recent maintenance: timing belt, LCA bushings, fuel filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV cleaning

This is the only 09 T5 I've seen for sale, and while this one isn't the cleanest with some cosmetic blemishes from being a NYC dweller, I think it's a solid starting point.

After putting my first several hundred miles on the car, I have found some little quibbles/annoyances that I could use some insight on:
  • Once in a while on starting, the car will crank fine, feel like it's going to fire upon release of key, stumble, and then recover and start fine. The throttle pedal also has a very jumpy response; nothing and then it takes off sudenly. Do these late model P2s still suffer from throttle body issues?
  • The driver's side seat has a click/creak noise going around turns and on hard braking/accelerating. I've seen the TNNs for felt strips being put in between the SIPS seat bushings, but this car is long out of warranty...
  • The tires suck. They're some cheap knock of brand of Cooper, but have plenty of tread...
  • The brakes suck. The car has a fresh brake flush, so I'm going to check the front and rear calipers and look for sticking slide pins.

Some pictures:




The worst damage is here; there are scratches all down both doors and some polisher burn through on the B pillars. I'll have to see what options I have without spending a ton of money.






The car originally came with a sport steering wheel and shift knob, as well as some unique sport seats with suede inserts, but sadly these were removed and swapped for regular sport seats. I'd love to swap in a Nordkapp R interior someday, if I keep the car long enough.

Looking forward to being more active on the forum!

-James
 

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Sounds like a nice ride! We can't see your pictures though.

I use this site: https://postimages.org/ to upload images to swedepeed. It's free and easy.

Copy and paste the "hotlink for forums" code.


Not sure what's going on with your throttle issue. Any codes?

Coming from a P80 the S60's brakes should feel really good so something is up there too.

Looking forward to seeing the pics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks T501 - I updated the pictures using the link you sent. I see from your signature that you have some suspension mods. How do you like the Bilstein Sports and IPD sway bars? I'm not lowering my car, but I'm debating between Bilstein B4 Tourings and B6 HDs. I've got PTSD from hearing all the P80 ride quality horror stories with HDs... also a decent chunk more money.

No codes on the throttle issue, but I'm having a specialty Volvo shop check the car over just for a second opinion on general health. We'll see if they find anything.

So far, some other little quirks I've found...
- Both passenger front and rear windows are loose. Ordered some of the guide clips from FCP that will hopefully fix that.
- Upper engine mount bushing is trash, and I think the lower torque mount as well. Ordered replacements. Should be an easy fix this weekend!

I'm also curious regarding the PCV systems on these cars, specifically the banjo bolt. I know the shop I bought the car from did NOT replace it with the 2014 version; they simply cleaned the old one. Reason for concern?
 

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Looks like a very nice S60!

I really like my suspension setup. I definitely would do it again the exact same way if I had to. But if you're not going to lower your car, I would suggest sticking with the oem SACHS for replacements. I think they are very good struts and shocks. You'll probably get faster, more critical damping with B6's but if you're not interested in lowering, then you probably don't care about faster damping. The SACHS stuff is good and I'd put those on my car if I stayed at factory height.

The IPD swaybars are nice and I don't regret those either but they don't make as big of a difference as the springs and B8's did.

You should get the PCV system tested with a manometer or at least do the glove test. You really don't want to mess around with that on these cars as I'm sure you already know form your P80 days. I replaced mine with the 2014 banjo bolt a few years ago. I did it for piece of mind but I don't think it's as important as a clog free PCV system. I blew the front crank seal around the mileage your at now, which I mostly attribute to following the 7,500k mile OCI recommended by Volvo as well as the synthetic blend oil they used at the dealer. Since that happened I've taken over the maintenance and switched to 5k mile OCI's with full synthetic. My current PCV system has 110k miles on it and it's still testing good.


Not trying to scare you though. The main thing is that your PCV system is creating enough vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hm, interesting. So Sachs over the B4s then? If I did Sachs, I'd probably track down the original T5 dampers and order them from Tasca if not too much more. Found some more of your posts with detailed thoughts on your TME/B8 setup. It is a bit tempting, I'll admit. Any alignment issues?

Thanks for the info on the manometer test - I didn't realize Volvo had a more quantitative way of checking the system. I asked my shop to check it out just to be sure. Looks like 5k OCI's is what I'll be doing too.

Got a quote that I'm going to take from a local detailer that I trust to touch up and improve the nasty scratches on the side. The last photos masked it pretty well... They promised a big improvement, but not perfection. Oh well, 10 year old car.


 

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Hm, interesting. So Sachs over the B4s then? If I did Sachs, I'd probably track down the original T5 dampers and order them from Tasca if not too much more. Found some more of your posts with detailed thoughts on your TME/B8 setup. It is a bit tempting, I'll admit. Any alignment issues?

Thanks for the info on the manometer test - I didn't realize Volvo had a more quantitative way of checking the system. I asked my shop to check it out just to be sure. Looks like 5k OCI's is what I'll be doing too.

Got a quote that I'm going to take from a local detailer that I trust to touch up and improve the nasty scratches on the side. The last photos masked it pretty well... They promised a big improvement, but not perfection. Oh well, 10 year old car.
Sachs vs. B4 is a toss up. I put B4's on my Dad's S70 and they are fine, nothing special though. You won't go wrong either way.

No real alignment issues to speak of. My rear camber is always right on the edge of spec at around -1.5 degrees but I always rotate my tires every time I change my oil which is every 5k miles. Doing that, I get even wear all the way across the tires. My tires last the same amount of miles now, as they did before lowering. I've had that set up for about 55k miles now and I really enjoy the car much more since, but it's definitely a personal choice.

Yeah a 10 year old car will have its fair share of "character." I'm sure the detailing will help. Maybe keep an eye out for a junkyard passenger door, since yours has a bit of rust where it was hit. Erievovo may have something.
 

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The original Volvo struts were made by Sachs, but the aftermarket Sachs - usually there are two types - don't come even close to a genuine Sachs/Volvo strut. Get the genuine and have peace of mind, just a few dollars more https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kos_nLjjgno The B4 may be a little more stiff, better if the roads are smooth around the area

Not sure if we already talked on another forum, but if not, I'd make sure they used a quality brand for the belt and/or water pump. cheapo ones are known to fail without warning after 1-2years. Same for the control arms. Reason is, they put cheap tires to sell the car, not always a good sign
 

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Welcome to this group!
09's were the best, they definitely got better optioned compared to earlier years, and usually the T5's were loaded, so bummer about the interior but no biggie.

Brakes should be pretty solid, but I've driven this platform for like 10 years now so I'm pretty used to it I suppose.
And the throttle is usually pretty predictable as is starting, I'm not aware of major issues like earlier years, may be good to pull the intake and check out/clean the throttle body, maybe something didn't get reassembled perfectly after the TB job, but getting a second set of eyes on it never hurts.

I didn't want to lower this car, but I found upper strut bars, front & rear, to be a great help for the chassis rigidity without lowering (mine is the awd variant though), and I swapped only rear springs to R springs to level my car (again, not an issue you have to deal with)

Hoping it brings you years of fun!
 

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Because who doesn't love a few pics
 

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What I'd give for a post facelift one, lol! I'm just envious that yours is the newest year of the P2, and scratches aside, looks quite nice! I sometimes encounter the starting issue that you describe. Most of the time it fires right up, sometimes it'll stumble and once in a very blue moon it'll really stumble. I'm tempted to just replace my FPS as that is a known issue at least in earlier years if not all years. Check the PCV system as 501 mentioned above. I'd also go for the Sachs if not planning to lower. I just recently (last month) replaced my original shocks/struts with ProParts Sweden ones, and so far they feel quite plush, filtering out much of crappy roads that I previously felt quite well. I almost pulled the trigger on Sachs front and rear from FCPeuro which probably would have been the smarter bet for their lifetime guarantee on all parts. Time will tell how these ones I got last though. I also replaced the LCAs with brand new OEM Lemferder ones and ball joints as well. I've had my S60 for 4 1/2 years now, and replaced the original upper engine mount after about the 2nd year with an MTC brand replacement. I had to replace that one after exactly a year! I replaced it with an iPD poly insert one and won't have to replace it again for a long time. I also replaced the lower with a poly one as well since the smaller bushing there is prone to a very short lifespan. Yes it introduces extra vibration at idle, but it should last a long time. If you go with a standard rubber mount or OEM, I would not buy that part from anywhere else other than FCP as you will be replacing it again if you own the car for a few years or more. One thing I will stress along with the regular oil changes in the 4-5K interval range with full synthetic, is trans fluid maintenance. I've only done mine once (probably the only one that the car has had) and did it around the 117k'ish mark and did it by way of the Gibbons method. It really improved things a lot which I can still say since nearly 30K later or more. Start by checking the condition of the fluid by eyeballing how it looks on the trans dipstick. If still has some red to it, you're in good shape. If it's darker or brownish, I would recommend dumping what the pan give from the drain plug at every oil change you do for say the next 4-5 oil changes to really flush most of it out. I think the pan drains about 2 or so quarts out at a time. Gibbons method will flush ALL of it out in one sitting. Whichever way you go on that, it'll improve the longevity of the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The original Volvo struts were made by Sachs, but the aftermarket Sachs - usually there are two types - don't come even close to a genuine Sachs/Volvo strut. Get the genuine and have peace of mind, just a few dollars more https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kos_nLjjgno The B4 may be a little more stiff, better if the roads are smooth around the area

Not sure if we already talked on another forum, but if not, I'd make sure they used a quality brand for the belt and/or water pump. cheapo ones are known to fail without warning after 1-2years. Same for the control arms. Reason is, they put cheap tires to sell the car, not always a good sign
Thanks Orange, we did indeed talk on MVS, and I asked the questions... they promised all are OEM parts. The timing belt kit I know for a fact is Continental, and I believe the bushings are Lemforder. The tires were just left on there from when the place I got the car from picked it up from auction. They're newer and have plenty of tread so they're fine....for now. It's also comforting to know that the indy shop I went to today for a VIDA scan said they know the guys I bought the car from, and said they're good folks.

I saw your video on identifying the model numbers, but sadly my 09 doesn't appear to have that info - unless there's somewhere I'm not seeing? Regardless, I love how thorough your videos are - reminds me of all of RobertDIY's stuff for the P80 world.

Welcome to this group!
09's were the best, they definitely got better optioned compared to earlier years, and usually the T5's were loaded, so bummer about the interior but no biggie.

Brakes should be pretty solid, but I've driven this platform for like 10 years now so I'm pretty used to it I suppose.
And the throttle is usually pretty predictable as is starting, I'm not aware of major issues like earlier years, may be good to pull the intake and check out/clean the throttle body, maybe something didn't get reassembled perfectly after the TB job, but getting a second set of eyes on it never hurts.

I didn't want to lower this car, but I found upper strut bars, front & rear, to be a great help for the chassis rigidity without lowering (mine is the awd variant though), and I swapped only rear springs to R springs to level my car (again, not an issue you have to deal with)

Hoping it brings you years of fun!
Thanks, here's hoping!! I have a problem with rotating through cars, but I've always wanted a P2 T5 since my mom got her XC70. I made a few concessions for this one's cosmetic looks and northern roots because it was an 09. Your car looks great - did you black out the roof? Also love the front running lights. Very tasteful.

I remember the front strut brace really helped the S70, funny since I thought this car already had one stock? Unless that beam is something else entirely.

What I'd give for a post facelift one, lol! I'm just envious that yours is the newest year of the P2, and scratches aside, looks quite nice! I sometimes encounter the starting issue that you describe. Most of the time it fires right up, sometimes it'll stumble and once in a very blue moon it'll really stumble. I'm tempted to just replace my FPS as that is a known issue at least in earlier years if not all years. Check the PCV system as 501 mentioned above. I'd also go for the Sachs if not planning to lower. I just recently (last month) replaced my original shocks/struts with ProParts Sweden ones, and so far they feel quite plush, filtering out much of crappy roads that I previously felt quite well. I almost pulled the trigger on Sachs front and rear from FCPeuro which probably would have been the smarter bet for their lifetime guarantee on all parts. Time will tell how these ones I got last though. I also replaced the LCAs with brand new OEM Lemferder ones and ball joints as well. I've had my S60 for 4 1/2 years now, and replaced the original upper engine mount after about the 2nd year with an MTC brand replacement. I had to replace that one after exactly a year! I replaced it with an iPD poly insert one and won't have to replace it again for a long time. I also replaced the lower with a poly one as well since the smaller bushing there is prone to a very short lifespan. Yes it introduces extra vibration at idle, but it should last a long time. If you go with a standard rubber mount or OEM, I would not buy that part from anywhere else other than FCP as you will be replacing it again if you own the car for a few years or more. One thing I will stress along with the regular oil changes in the 4-5K interval range with full synthetic, is trans fluid maintenance. I've only done mine once (probably the only one that the car has had) and did it around the 117k'ish mark and did it by way of the Gibbons method. It really improved things a lot which I can still say since nearly 30K later or more. Start by checking the condition of the fluid by eyeballing how it looks on the trans dipstick. If still has some red to it, you're in good shape. If it's darker or brownish, I would recommend dumping what the pan give from the drain plug at every oil change you do for say the next 4-5 oil changes to really flush most of it out. I think the pan drains about 2 or so quarts out at a time. Gibbons method will flush ALL of it out in one sitting. Whichever way you go on that, it'll improve the longevity of the transmission.
Thanks Phixion! I too have learned the value of good parts. I've ordered Hutchinson/Lemforder for the engine mounts, and everything else will be name brand. I'm going to try out the rubber mounts for both the torque mount and upper engine part. If they fail, as you said, FCP will help, not to mention they're easy jobs.

By FPS - I assume you mean fuel pressure sensor? This was replaced once on the car a few years back. But hey, who knows. We'll see what the shop finds. I'm learning these 5 cylinder engines are just full of character; they grumble, grind, and whine, and often it's just normal.

I'm for sure planning on doing drain/fills on the transmission fluid. I did that on the S70 and the auto there really really appreciated it. I'm also going to get a Blackstone report done on both engine oil and transmission fluid. I'm a nerd so I enjoy those reports.
 

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I did use vinyl to do the roof, updated it quite a bit I feel (I also tried a version of snow camo last winter, it was fun but short lived).

The bar you see on the car stock, is not true strut brace, grab and you can rotate it front/back, it's actually an upper motor mount and is mounted the strut towers with soft bushings.

2 methods
A) replace those soft bushings with solid parts (ipd sells aluminum parts, or I think you can do a home made version), but since the motor mounts to that, you can get an increase in vibrations from the motor (also if you replace the upper motor mount w/ a poly one).
B) add a strut brace (a few versions out there, I have a carbon fiber one from eurosport tuning)





** oh and I've always traded cars in 2-4 years max, but this one I'm pretty damn happy with, I always want something else or new, but I've owned this since ~26k miles as a CPO, I actually own it finally (I've had a constant car payment since I leased a new TRD Sport Tacoma in 2006), and I've got the old car when I get a feeling like I want a change :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did use vinyl to do the roof, updated it quite a bit I feel (I also tried a version of snow camo last winter, it was fun but short lived).

The bar you see on the car stock, is not true strut brace, grab and you can rotate it front/back, it's actually an upper motor mount and is mounted the strut towers with soft bushings.

2 methods
A) replace those soft bushings with solid parts (ipd sells aluminum parts, or I think you can do a home made version), but since the motor mounts to that, you can get an increase in vibrations from the motor (also if you replace the upper motor mount w/ a poly one).
B) add a strut brace (a few versions out there, I have a carbon fiber one from eurosport tuning)


** oh and I've always traded cars in 2-4 years max, but this one I'm pretty damn happy with, I always want something else or new, but I've owned this since ~26k miles as a CPO, I actually own it finally (I've had a constant car payment since I leased a new TRD Sport Tacoma in 2006), and I've got the old car when I get a feeling like I want a change :)
Ahhh, that makes sense! I'll have to add those to my list of bushings to replace then. Strut brace may come later.

Glad to hear there's hope then from another with a bit of a car flipping problem. The other vehicle is an 01 4Runner with just under 300k miles. Still runs great, and just sorta chugs along, nice and slow.

Anyways....

Spent some time last night taking off the passenger door panel to attack the plastic window guides that I had suspected were failing. Sure enough, they were. Got the back one replaced and hastily had to throw on the panel to avoid some pending rain. Man, I can't wait to have a garage...

Some thoughts/questions:
  1. Those little push pins baffled me, I hate to admit. I hadn't pushed them allll the way in, and sort of forced the back portion out of the door along with the panel. Oops. I'll order a few spares to replace the ones I broke off Tasca.
  2. What grease do people like to use in here? I'm thinking a silicone or white lithium grease.
  3. The front window guide looks like it might be a bit annoying. I'll try removing the speaker to access it.
I've always been rather poor at documenting repairs, but hope to do so with this car with pictures along the way!
 

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You don't need to remove the speaker. Just raise the window up about half way and pop this little black cover off.

This is on my driver's side but it should be the same on the passenger side.

how do i get to the nearest gas station

I just used dielectric grease which is silicone grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You don't need to remove the speaker. Just raise the window up about half way and pop this little black cover off.

This is on my driver's side but it should be the same on the passenger side.

how do i get to the nearest gas station

I just used dielectric grease which is silicone grease.
That's where I started, and the clip securing the guide was facing the other way into the door, so I couldn't get it out. Not sure if that's from someone in the past swapping it... but, regardless, I'll play around with it and find a way, thanks!

I was expecting the channel locks to be required to press the regulator arm into the new guide, but it seemed to pop right into place with just finger pressure.
 

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To add to what Spike60 mentions about the engine cross stay bar (as it's called by Volvo), another option that I did was as poly inserts from iPD which are only about $10 or so, that go over the stock bushings where it mounts to the strut turrets, and it'll dial out and stiffen up about 90% of the slop that bar has if you grab onto and rock it back and forth in stock form. The inserts will make it almost immovable when you do that. Again it's not a strut bar, so adding the inserts won't make it more like one. You'll need the solid mounts to do that.

By FPS, yes I was indeed referring to the fuel pressure sensor. That's good that yours is a newer unit.

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That's where I started, and the clip securing the guide was facing the other way into the door, so I couldn't get it out. Not sure if that's from someone in the past swapping it... but, regardless, I'll play around with it and find a way, thanks!

I was expecting the channel locks to be required to press the regulator arm into the new guide, but it seemed to pop right into place with just finger pressure.
Squeeze them with the channel locks anyway. They kind of pop in with your fingers but not all the way. They make a loud pop when they are in all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Had a productive few days catching up on some maintenance.

Finished the front door guides. The passenger window is still a bit slow when coming up from a fully open position, but better.

Also did upper engine mount, transmission torque mount, and lower passenger mount. I'll have to also replace the upper strut brace side bushings too. Forgot to order them.

I'm also fighting a spongy brake pedal, and in and attempt to help this, I pulled all of the slide pins and greases them. They were dry, as expected.

More work to come....


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Scored some XC70 floor mats the other day off FB Market place for 25 bucks, brand new. I always liked the look of these.

Shame, the rear cargo one obviously doesn't fit. Might look at selling it.


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I’ve been trying to find one for awhile. Nice car. I figured maybe you would know the answer but I was wanting to get a manual 2.4 /t5 and shim the block, port the head, injectors, Intake, exhaust, tune, maybe a fuel system and make enough power to keep up with a stock c6 vette. then when it blew or something happened I was gunna build the whole thing. Would it hold that much power or even make that much power with what I’m going to do with everything else being stock ?
 
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