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really excited, i will post pics as soon as i get them.
when i got her, there was a little hesitation in the lower range of RPMs and it seemed like it generally lacked power.
i spent saturday doing little things on it, such as changing the engine oil, checking the plugs, adjusting the valve clearances, points, refilling the clutch master cylinder and the carburetor dashpots. after all that, the car ran much nicer but...
i noticed that my slave cylinder is leaking and while the engine cylinders 1 and 2 spark plugs look nice and tan, 3 and 4 are black, and 4 looks a little oily.
what would you recommend as a next step? i was thinking checking the ignition timing and then getting the carbs tuned.
what is the base timing for this engine?

thanks!
 

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I'm new to these things as well. But from what the plugs look like I'd say a good carb tuning would be high the to do list. That clutch slave cylinder I'd want to fix I had one go out in my pickup in St. Paul MN. I can tell you driving through town with out being able to release the clutch is no fun. Every light will be RED and you have to kill the motor and start it in gear when the light turns green.
The other thing I'm going to be doing on my 66 wagon is checking the brakes not just pads but the tubing and hoses. I've also had a rusted brake line blow. That car wasn't all that old but in Minnesota the road salt eats everything !
So my plan is making sure it will stop then make sure it will go.
By the way is this a 2 door, 4 door or wagon ?
 

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really excited, i will post pics as soon as i get them.
when i got her, there was a little hesitation in the lower range of RPMs and it seemed like it generally lacked power.
i spent saturday doing little things on it, such as changing the engine oil, checking the plugs, adjusting the valve clearances, points, refilling the clutch master cylinder and the carburetor dashpots. after all that, the car ran much nicer but...
i noticed that my slave cylinder is leaking and while the engine cylinders 1 and 2 spark plugs look nice and tan, 3 and 4 are black, and 4 looks a little oily.
what would you recommend as a next step? i was thinking checking the ignition timing and then getting the carbs tuned.
what is the base timing for this engine?

thanks!
Welcome to Swedespeed, Mike.

Look here...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

...and download/save the documents (PDFs, etc.) that apply to your car.

In this pdf...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

...you wil find tune-up info and much more.

Where are you located?

Let us know what parts you need.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, all. it's a 4 door sedan. i'm lucky, i have a volvo mechanic just a few blocks away from where i live. he seems to like to talk about the vintage volvos, so i think i'll be able to hit him up with some info. i will probably let him tune my carbs though, seeing that i have no experience with that whatsoever, and when i do get around to learning about them i want to start with a system that is correctly set up. and besides, we all gotta throw our friendly mechanic a bone once in a while.
i'm shifting without using the clutch to save the fluid from squirting out of the slave cylinder until i receive the rebuild kit. rev matching is fun!
i'm just hoping the cylinder bore isn't all messed up. can those babies be honed?

thanks george, for the docs, however it doesn't seem like i can download those Pdf's.
next up will be some rear 3 point seat belts for the kidling
 

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Clutch master cylinders can be honed and rebuilt to a point, but new ones are readily available and, in my experience, tend to hold up much longer. Same for the slave cylinder.
 

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...however it doesn't seem like i can download those Pdf's...
If you are on a network it may be blocking the pdfs.

If your Amazon is a stock B18D the timing is 15-19 BTDC at under 800rpm any vacuum lines plugged. If the car pings a lot and the carbs are close to correct (not too lean) then try 10-14 BTDC and/or a higher octane gas and/or richer carb settings.

Final carb adjustment is simple and easy but done only after ALL other systems are spot on.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are on a network it may be blocking the pdfs.

If your Amazon is a stock B18D the timing is 15-19 BTDC at under 800rpm any vacuum lines plugged. If the car pings a lot and the carbs are close to correct (not too lean) then try 10-14 BTDC and/or a higher octane gas and/or richer carb settings.

Final carb adjustment is simple and easy but done only after ALL other systems are spot on.

George Dill
hm. so would you address the possibility of cylinder 4 leaking a bit of oil past the rings before adjusting the timing? cylinder 4's spark plug is not only black, but a bit oily too. would that require pulling the engine?
it does have what looks to be a stock b18.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Clutch master cylinders can be honed and rebuilt to a point, but new ones are readily available and, in my experience, tend to hold up much longer. Same for the slave cylinder.
i already ordered a rebuild kit. i'll probably get a new slave cylinder too, just to be able to finish the job with minimal downtime.
 

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The Green Book (factory shop manual) is somewhat confusing on timing specs. It calls for setting the timing at 1500 RPM with vacuum (if any) disconnected, not at idle. The distributor advances quite a bit between idle and 1500 RPM. I would try 12 BTDC at idle as a starting point, and then rev the engine above 3000 RPM and see what the advance tops out at -- should be 32-34 BTDC. Reset the idle timing to make it so. If you don't get ~20 degrees of advance, then there's a problem with the distributor.
 

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hm. so would you address the possibility of cylinder 4 leaking a bit of oil past the rings before adjusting the timing? cylinder 4's spark plug is not only black, but a bit oily too. would that require pulling the engine?
it does have what looks to be a stock b18.
No need to pull the engine until you determine what is causing what.

Look at the intake manifold - is there a fitting/hose that is fed by the PCV system?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No need to pull the engine until you determine what is causing what.

Look at the intake manifold - is there a fitting/hose that is fed by the PCV system?

George Dill
negative. the combustion blowby is vented into the atmosphere.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Green Book (factory shop manual) is somewhat confusing on timing specs. It calls for setting the timing at 1500 RPM with vacuum (if any) disconnected, not at idle. The distributor advances quite a bit between idle and 1500 RPM. I would try 12 BTDC at idle as a starting point, and then rev the engine above 3000 RPM and see what the advance tops out at -- should be 32-34 BTDC. Reset the idle timing to make it so. If you don't get ~20 degrees of advance, then there's a problem with the distributor.
will do. gotta get/borrow a timing light and a rpm meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
No need to pull the engine until you determine what is causing what.

Look at the intake manifold - is there a fitting/hose that is fed by the PCV system?

George Dill
wait, no! pcv is positive crankcase ventilation, right? there is a hose going from the the pcv system to the intake manifold. it was loose when i removed it to get the valve cover off
there is also a little air cleaner fitted to the engine oil filler cap
 
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